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Old 02-17-2011, 09:41 AM   #91
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should i contact one of the provided links or can anyone direct me to a place for lips for ssr formula mesh, its 20 bolt and reverse mount lip, 17 in...ive looked but had a hard time locating anything
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:09 PM   #92
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i dunno about you
but racing is not as harsh as normal street drivin
street driving typically involves massive potholes and can often involve neglect, to the point where people drive shit with little or no air in their tires.
when something is welded, its the seam around the weld that is brittle and can break.
I know what you mean, but 37 years of doing it, he says never had an issue, it's when you go to a shitty welder that you run into issues. if it's a proven company then it should be trustworthy.
If the weld is good, it should actually make the wheel stronger at the point of the weld.
Similar to your bones, when you break a bone, the body fills the crack in with more bone, and it makes the bone stronger.
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:38 PM   #93
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this guy is a wonderful welder

Hardly....

i agree sam. if you're going this route, you had better set aside some money to have them xray'ed as an integrity check, possibly send them out for re-forging? i wouldnt feel comfortable just riding on welded wheels
It would be more costly to have a CWI x-ray the welds....

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i dunno about you

but racing is not as harsh as normal street driving


street driving typically involves massive potholes and can often involve neglect, to the point where people drive shit with little or no air in their tires.

when something is welded, its the seam around the weld that is brittle and can break.

i am not saying the work isnt good or that its not reliable. i am simply saying, what cost to this risk? personally, i'de prefer getting the proper wheel from the get-go and calling it a day. but hey, to each his own. its cool stuff though. but 140mph with a set of welded wheels? dunno about that
It only becomes brittle if it was welded incorrectly. Or if it required post heat treatment and didn't receive any.

Why would you be doing 140mph on the street?

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I know what you mean, but 37 years of doing it, he says never had an issue, it's when you go to a shitty welder that you run into issues. if it's a proven company then it should be trustworthy.
If the weld is good, it should actually make the wheel stronger at the point of the weld.
Similar to your bones, when you break a bone, the body fills the crack in with more bone, and it makes the bone stronger.
This is true. But only when it's welded correctly with the correct prep, technique and any post welding treatment (If required).
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Old 04-13-2011, 12:09 PM   #94
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Called Eric Vaughn to see if he could do work on some TE37s, and he said he won't touch mag wheels, due to the materials.

He actually said repairing bends in mag wheels would be very hard as well.
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:37 PM   #95
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TE37's are made of magnesium???
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:22 PM   #96
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TE37's are made of magnesium???
one hell of a fire when you hit a curb and spark it
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:57 AM   #97
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I believe they had a short run of a "Forged MAG" version. The name sounds like they could have been made of Magnesium, not to mention the price (MSRP $1700 for 18x9.5s) and the weight (14lbs for the same size).
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Old 04-14-2011, 06:39 AM   #98
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I thought the forged mags were that dark blue color? Also they were knock offs and not lug nut wheels?
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:28 AM   #99
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i bet if you looked on the supra forums you'll find a gold mine. they love widening stock supra wheels... and for good reason: they sessy as hell
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:34 AM   #100
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TE37's are made of magnesium???
what old guys refer to spoked wheels as. my buddys dad still calls newer wheels mags. but im sure because they're forged its a pain in the balls to do.
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:46 AM   #101
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hmmm... anyone want to fill their tires with nitrogen and go drift their 240 with magnesium te-37s into a curb?
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:15 AM   #102
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hmmm... anyone want to fill their tires with nitrogen and go drift their 240 with magnesium te-37s into a curb?
lol show up at the pearly gates ass backwards on fire... st peter's like wtf were you thinking
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:34 AM   #103
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I had no idea that Weldcraft was so well known. I had them repair some rash on my CR Kais when I first bought them- $80 total to completely redo and smooth the lips for two wheels- they did some really nice work!
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:02 PM   #104
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i bet if you looked on the supra forums you'll find a gold mine. they love widening stock supra wheels... and for good reason: they sessy as hell
Supra wheels are ugly as fuck. :|
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:06 PM   #105
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Yeah, it seems that Japanese manufacturers were skimpin' on the wheel designs back in the early 90's. Perhaps too much spent on R&D making a decent car, unlike the American fare over here in the states...
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:36 PM   #106
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hmmm... anyone want to fill their tires with nitrogen and go drift their 240 with magnesium te-37s into a curb?
Since when is Nitrogen in tires flammable or any more reactive than "air"?

And if you're referring to Magnesium Nitride, go take a Chemistry class, and learn that driving into a curb will not cause this chemical reaction.
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:27 PM   #107
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since when is nitrogen in tires flammable or any more reactive than "air"?

And if you're referring to magnesium nitride, go take a chemistry class, and learn that driving into a curb will not cause this chemical reaction.


what is scarcasm?!
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:41 PM   #108
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scarcasm?!
according to urban dictionary:

Scarcasm, n. clever but very unkind comments that leave a scar on the recipient. A stronger form of sarcasm that is directed towards someone who is especially sensitive and is permanently "scarred" by the cutting remark.
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:47 PM   #109
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what old guys refer to spoked wheels as. my buddys dad still calls newer wheels mags. but im sure because they're forged its a pain in the balls to do.
I've heard guys who are into the "mini truck" scene also defer to general chrome wheels as "mag"
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:22 PM   #110
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has anyone ever widened xxrs?
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:35 PM   #111
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has anyone ever widened xxrs?
You can't...its like buying ebay intercooler piping and trying to TIG it.
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:35 PM   #112
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has anyone ever widened xxrs?

lol it wouldnt be worth the money man..cuz by the time your done. you could have bought some 18x10's or whatever ( depends on brand of course )..and shit now xxr has 18x10.5's left and right.
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:18 PM   #113
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i have the 16x8s 002, i want to make the rears x9.5 or 10.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:18 AM   #114
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i have the 16x8s 002, i want to make the rears x9.5 or 10.
Might aswell buy steelies -_-
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Old 04-15-2011, 03:08 AM   #115
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Quote:
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You can't...its like buying ebay intercooler piping and trying to TIG it.
I've actually done that lol, mind you i wasn't the one who purchased it, but yeah it sucked.

And as i stated before: Volk did make magnesium TE37s.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:45 PM   #116
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I'd like to create a wheel widening workshop in the future, I can already imagine the lathe and tools needed to successfully do it.
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:40 PM   #117
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Do you actually know what you need to look for in a lathe to do this?

I'm not a machinist but what I have gathered is that you can usually only cut something that's as big as your chuck.
IE 17'' chuck... Will most likely only cut up to 17''....

One of our lathes at work has a 19'' chuck... And it can only hold up to a 19'' rim.
Big chucks are BIG money and weigh a fuck ton...

I think you really need to know your lathes for an endeavor like this... Or you could end up with a lathe that's limited and cost a shit load...
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:47 PM   #118
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Hmm, I would try to fab up some kind of chuck with an old hub or something, that way instead of clamping the outer lip of the wheel (which WOULD require a 17" or bigger chuck), you could bolt the wheel to the chuck as if you were installing it on your car, not sure if it'd work, but in theory why not?
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:57 PM   #119
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Hmm, I would try to fab up some kind of chuck with an old hub or something, that way instead of clamping the outer lip of the wheel (which WOULD require a 17" or bigger chuck), you could bolt the wheel to the chuck as if you were installing it on your car, not sure if it'd work, but in theory why not?
Generally the distance from the center of the chuck to the bed won't allow it...
Hence why you need a big fuckin chuck.
If the lathe can only handle, say, a 12'' chuck. The lathe will be built to a chuck that size (including the arms stick out). They won't build it so it can later accept a 20'' chuck...
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Old 05-14-2011, 09:17 PM   #120
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I thought about hooking up an old hub, and I envisioned a radial saw ( w/ a thin metal cutting blade ) on a pivoting arm that would lean towards the barrel and slice it. the assembly would have to be welded and squared to perfection to make sure it was true, but I like the idea of building something that will work.
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