Mikester

So I went back to the top and re-read this thread.

Johannes,

Since I posted on May 7th, I learned something when I purged all of my fluid & put fresh stuff in. Except this time, the brake pedal feel; as well as the response was a night & day difference.

What I did differently:

Instead of bleeding w/a Mity Vac, I had a guy in the car pumping/holding the pedal. Also, I went several more iterations at each caliper after seeing no bubbles- guess what? After 5-6 times of seeing no air, there was air AGAIN that was still stuck further up the lines.

All said and done, the pedal no longer felt 'too stiff'; and the car stops like a million bucks WITH the DIF/Tokico Z32 MC. In order to do it, the rears take a while. Any air still stuck in the rear section of the system, there will be a pressure drop across the WHOLE rear system. The reason that the pedal will be overly stiff vs. mushy is that the majority of the braking is in the front and they are likely to be properly bled... If there was air in the FRONT, the pedal would probably be mushy as hell.

Anyway, I now think that the rears are not fully bled.

Also- not to insult anyone's skills; but I assume that the rear bleeder ports are at the top of the calipers and not the bottoms- yea? As you are probably well-aware, the system will never bleed with the ports at the bottom (calipers on backwards).

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Nissan2nr22

Same issue here

Nissan2nr22

My issue was brake pads

di-devol

What do you mean, your issue was pads?

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Nissan2nr22

The pads looked good but when I compared them to a new set of pads they were actually very low maybe half worn . The piston was showing I could only tell with the wheel off. Once I changed the pads all around my brake pedal feel came back to normal, s15 with bm50 big booster and 30mm fronts and rear 2 pots

Izzyidk

damn this thread is me. I've had a super stiff pedal for 3 years. Changed masters, boosters, calipers, lines. Changing my master again Tuesday and I will do pads at the same time. Hope this changes it