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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 01-04-2018, 08:48 AM   #31
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Cracking the throttle plate is not correct. The reason it stumbles coming down to idle is when the BOV is not recirculated post MAFS.
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Old 01-05-2018, 03:53 AM   #32
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Cracking the throttle plate is not correct. The reason it stumbles coming down to idle is when the BOV is not recirculated post MAFS.
Perhaps cracked is the the wrong terminology, not to the point where the TB is visually open. Throttle stop screw still needs to be set, and not completely backed out of use. I adjust it to where i'll start feeling resistance from the throttle blade, making sure the throttle body is not sticking closed. These cars are old and the electronics sometimes aren't what they once were, so they do need periodic adjustments. Aside from that, I've seen a bad maf + o2 sensor on one car give similar symptoms. Other than that, I can only see a intake leak giving the same issues. Both of which op stated were either replaced or tested. Is there a boost/vac gauge in the car? what kinda vac reading do you have around idle?
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Old 01-05-2018, 06:04 AM   #33
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I will have to double check what the vac is at idle. I should be able to check either this afternoon or this weekend sometime.
I work in the shop my car is in so running it early morning and then dealing with the exhaust all day is a bad idea. To cold here (-16 degree F) right now to ventilate after running. I hate winter
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Old 01-05-2018, 06:24 AM   #34
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Timing off a tooth


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Old 01-06-2018, 07:17 AM   #35
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Timing off a tooth


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Ive verified the CAS and timing is 100% spot on. If there is one thing on a SR motor I am a champ at doing, its the timing setup.

Its the timing when the car takes over using the ecu that gets me until I was explained how to fix this issue via this thread.
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:15 AM   #36
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No recent updates. Hoping this week to be able to check coolant lines and run the car again
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:23 PM   #37
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These engines are so simple. You compression test, boost leak test, timing verify. Then put good maf good injectors good ecu and fuel pump, bkr7es copper plugs and it runs. I've never seen an exception.

throttle body shut, holding water is factory goodness. coolant lines on the iacv for warm-up idle is proper. but neither of those things, nor the tps, can cause it to run badly. Shut off at random or idle too high, sure. but it will drive great still, with a bent throttle body blade and a broken IACV.
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Old 01-17-2018, 01:03 AM   #38
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When did this issue start?
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Old 02-05-2018, 07:31 AM   #39
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Took some time off due to weather. It still sucks here in the Chicagoland area but I have been plugging away little by little.

Issue originally started when enthalpy tuned ecu had plastic ribbon and it failed, frying my wiring harness. Since then the car was put away and forgotten about.
New ecu, new harness and issues are slowly going away. I had made such major changes to everything "to make it run" when the harness and tune were bad that is super way outta wack

Dialing things back in now

Update:
All new intercooler couplers and PCV valve installed. Waiting to run car once I get a break in the weather.
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:53 PM   #40
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Is your fuel line reversed or kinked
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:50 PM   #41
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Is your fuel line reversed or kinked


If it was reversed it wouldn’t run at all


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