wew

I have searched and I have found answers, but I am mainly doing this to make sure I don't screw anything up or forget about anything. I'm also no sure if this is the correct place to post this.

The car is a 1990 240 w/ ka24de. Car is pretty much bone stock w/ exception to cosmetic things. I plan on dropping an sr20det into it, and I've found a motor from jdmtigerjapanese.com (any reviews on site?) with just motor or motor+trans. I've seen people saying the sr can use the stock ka trans with an sr bellhousing, is this true? From what I've seen the stock wiring harness can be used with some work on it, but am I able to use the ka ecu? (From what I've seen I don't think so but just checking.) If I need an sr ecu where the best place to one, ebay most likely?

I will be performing this swap with my father who has worked on many older cars so he knows technical things, but when it comes to computers and turbos count him out. This is my first turbo car and it isn't a purpose build. Just trying to build a 300-325 hp car that I can street. I have loads of other questions but I just want to get the basic swap down first. I know all of these questions have been answered but some links don't work anymore and I'm just trying to plan ahead. I don't aim to piss anyone off. Any recommendations for the swap or things to buy are greatly appreciated.

Dima1127

Yes a KA trans with the sr bell housing will work. But for simplicity sake buy the sr trans.

Also the ka ecu is a no go, and buy the wiring specialities harness. That way your not dealing with someone hack job harness that might cause problems.

When your buying the motor, take everything they give you, don't say no to parts. Iv sold a motor before and he didn't want the harness, on that harness was an ignition coil (100-200$) you don't want to make a mistake like that.

Also don't forget to upgrade your fuel pump. I use a walbro 225.

To get your speedo and tach to work you will need a dual cam tach and signal cam speedo. So get both clusters. And either swap the speedo or the tach. And use a ka speed sensor.

And another common mistake is people use a 240sx fuel filter.
You want the z32 fuel filter. It will mount up to the stock location.

That's just a few things, if I'm wrong please feel free to correct me


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wew

To add to the questions, what ecu should I be getting? I've searched ecu and there is hardly anything about them on the forums. I can buy an ecu with the sr20det+trans (90-93) for $150 plus a wiring harness for $100. It doesn't say what ecu it is, but on the wiring specialties site it asks for 62/63, E4,E5, or J4/J5, and thats the OEM harness I'm considering. Do I need the transmission harness as well? I'm sure the more people tell me things more questions will pop up.

Dima1127

For the ecu make sure it's the right one for your motor. For example if you got a black too s13 sr 5 speed, you want an ecu that is for a 5 speed black top
Yes you will need the lower harness


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Javi802

You should check out jspec. Read some good things about them. As well as sr20shop. If youre buying online that is. I would try and find a local shop that knows 240's and sells swaps, so you can compression test the engine in person.

Most shops sell a full swap. That includes all accessories and ecu/harness. If you dont mind a little wiring and a cluttered engine bay then you can easily use the harness that comes with the engine. Remember, the harness that will come with it was meant for a RHD engine bay

Another thing you need to do is buy everything you need for the swap before hand. The reason you want to do this is so you can get the engine running and driving as soon as possible. That way if it were to acquire a rod knock or something else internal, youre covered by warranty. Make sure there is a warranty.

Javi802

So just be patient and buy absolutely everything you need for the swap before buying the engine.

Buy the engine on a friday and start the swap early saturday morning and you should have no problem having it running by sunday, if not saturday night.

Shops will not give a shit if your engine blows and its past your warranty period