Drifting-pedobear

500hp sr is dope.

spending all that money is not, because there are much better ways to go.

try again OP.

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kalypso123

No amount of horsepower will correct sloppy wheel fitment.

Priorities*

hulkster_s13

yes we do. its been done for a couple years now right after the track closed

J90lude

Damn you guys are going big on numbers. Hell...give me 250whp to wheels and I'll great. Haaa!

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"Drive it like you running from the cops"

smelly240

i have over 500hp... You have to be very careful when doing this...

You cannot rely on 4032 pistons if u want to run 500+hp regularly... 4032 is too soft u will need 2816.

make sure u have abou .0045-.0055 Piston to wall clearance...

get ready to break parts a lot.

I get full boost at 4500 and made 509 on 93/meth inj... so its not bad on lag. You can do it with a 3076, 3582, and a few of the precisions without crazy lag.

I was running mahle pistons but after 12k mi the piston tops started to compress the top ring... 4032s just arent made for 30+psi

Also - you'll need something better than ARPs. My head lifts a little at anything over 28psi.

I got CP 9:1 now with .0050 piston to wall... gonna shoot for 600 now that i have the ve head on it. gonna pull it on the dyno saturday as long as the headgasket comes in.


We didnt even get to what u gotta do to the stock head yet. I broke 7 rocker arms the last 2 years. even when i had solids.

If you wanna dream... dont do a SR. The amount you gotta worry about makes your dream a nightmare.

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HREs on a S13 - check, 6262 - check, Girlfriend.... - nope

sqd

500hp isn't exactly "hard" to achieve with a SR. Let me give you an example, swedish SR with 540 hp. One key thing is that it's running E85, which generally results in more power.

Parts-wise:
86.5mm bore
CP pistons
Eagle rods
ACL bearings
ARP studs
Ported head
Crower Stage 3/272 cams, with Crower retainers and valvesprings
etc
Garrett GT3076r
PowerFC
Z32 MAF
SARD 850ccs
and so on.

This @ 29psi and E85 = 540 crank hp, and 480 rwhp. Drifted, daily driven 1500 miles, no issues or problems whatsoever.

And it's not really a hard goal to reach

smelly240

^^who let this guy talk?

crowers cams are weak/

not everyone can get e85... meth inj is nice - for those who arent in the northwest or midwest - in southeast PA we got nothin.

and i call bs on 500hp on sard 850cc and e85. Please... 850s? really? 540hp on 850s on E85? at like 75psi base FP?

On gasoline you need 850cc to make 500hp (at like 92-95% DC) - on e85 you need 1250cc minimum to make 500.

i would get at least 1600s for e85 - 1000s for gas

I run 1000s with 2 big meth nozzles...

if youre looking for 500hp ditch the sidefeed crap

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HREs on a S13 - check, 6262 - check, Girlfriend.... - nope

codyace

LOOOOOOOOOOOOL


I like his D/D claim too...1500 miles (oh, off the gate)

Oh the internet....

__________________

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kanekoa28

help me find a ls1 then for sure there will be one

Weedm

driving 1500 miles alone takes at least 21 hours, so he spends 21 hours driving a day duh. we need to give him 500hp so he can go to space and off our planet earth.

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sqd

Wow *insert facepalm here*

First dyno session:

Flywheel figures and whp:


This was later refined to 480whp and 540 @ crank.

The daily driven mileage wasn't per day, smartass, it was total so far.

Jesus f*ing christ, it's not even my car I'm talking about here - what can I possibly gain from making this shit up? Goddamn..

juiced305diesel

wow... havent been on here in a bit. let me put in my .2 cents. I have been messing with sr for a bit from a t25 to 6765 making 800rwhp. If your shooting for 500rwhp on a sr build it! If you attempt to make 500rwhp on a stock bottom shit will brake!!! I snapped 3 rockers twice. Then i dropped a valve lol.. I was making 534rwhp on a billet 5857. If you ad up on all the money your going to spend building your bottom end and head it should make you think twice about selecting an Sr20. Thats why i switched to a 2JZ!

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"Being a SSR wheel nude model is NOT easy, I just make it look like it is!"

kalypso123

yea but transmission options for the 2j are sparse.

the r154 is nice... i guess its work calculating the value of that.

mwilloughby87

r154 is the easiest way to go with the 2j....just use the marlin crower rebuild stuff on it and you're set.

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udon!

Fixed.

Msglength

kalypso123

R154 2WD Race | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

wow...thanks :0)

that rebuild is sweet... wish the cost was closer to 650-700. for only the parts and not the rebuild.

but still good

HGOTBOOST

You need to rebuilt a KA will save you money and alot of time

-GT35r
-Pistons
-Cams
-Tuned
-coilovers that can handle that power
-headers
-Full 3inch catback
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-1200cc injectors
-Fuel rail

I am pretty sure with just 18psi you will be doing 500hp+

sr20drifter1

All you need is money. Anything can be done on a sr20det. You can even have 1000hp on a sr20det. Money talks.There was a guy that I used to go chill at his place who had a 800hp sr20det. That thing was very very scary. Here is a link where you can find cars that have sr20det with a lot of power.
Drag and Drift

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DAOUD AKA KONGO DAVE

PomiDori

call mazworks and say "I got 10000$ "

I think they can do real good building sr20 with vet head and dry sump producing 500+hp and 10k revlimit

xtopgun32x

my mildly built 2871r makes more than 340 and i penetrate my seat like a pornstar from the torque...just saying...i think im lucky cuz i slightly agree with you...bought the car cuz it was a good deal...the right rb25 will make my 2871r sr feel like a noob pornstar.

go with the RB! best reliable power!

juiced305diesel

Theres alot of options i was torn between a c4, glide and the r154. I selected the r154 its cheap and cheap to rebuild with marlin crawler thrust bearing , retainer and shifter fork. Theres alot of options V160, r154, c4, powerglide, th400 and so on

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"Being a SSR wheel nude model is NOT easy, I just make it look like it is!"

zurud

So what's everybody saying is sr sucks. Bunch of honda with b series making 800whp nowadays. What part of sr sucks? I bought my s13 with sr hoping to break 10's in the 1/4 with at least 20mpg city.

ross.cottrill

ummm,its gona cost more than 10gs....just sayn...

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" NEO VVL BABY FTMFW!"


Originally Posted by shagspeed
Dude if I made 500WHP on a 54C SR20DET back in 1999-2000 with old school technology .. This VET will T-BAG your RB engines

240sx123$

Right, but any small four cylinder pushing high horsepower like that is gonna SUCK for the streets. Generally speaking, pushing a B Series to 800whp is no different from pushing an SR that far.. itd cost about the same amount of money to do. Its not that the SR sucks, but with any build like that in a street car, itd be no fun. People only look at the "whp" and assume thats everything. People dont consider things like torque curve, useable power, broad powerband- these are all phrases easily skipped over by the young and naive. 800whp doesnt mean shit if youre not getting any of it until 6500rpm. The reason a different motor would be better is because A) youll reach that that target horsepower SOONER, and B) Youll make that power more reliably.

Good luck with that.

!Zar!

Sell 240, purchase corvette.

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codyace

Why do you say that???

It would be very easy to be quite honest. Light s13, with a decent suspension, and a 400-420 hp 2871r, and you'd easily be there. Remember out of boost, it's a regular 125 hp 4 cyl...any competent tuner will be able to get it to be like driving miss daisy with a nice mid 14 afr when putzing around.


For example, my car went mid 11's at 120 mph, full weight s14, 400 whp, and gets 30-32 highway, and 23-25 mixed.

__________________

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MadScientist

Considering he has the SR Engine already...

1. Mazworx quoted me $3200 for machine work and assembly.... the only parts I didn't have is the Pistons and Bearings.... this is Block Only!!!

2. I have easily spent $3000 on the Head... P&P, Solids, 270s,Ti retainers, dual springs, seats, guides, etc...

3. Good Intake side... Best Cheep option is the Greddy Short Port w/ 70mm RNN TB., 1000cc injectors and Top Feed Fuel Rail... you would Defiantly need a SARD FPR. Thats was another easy $1500+

4. Turbo Side - Full Race or PowerLabs Twin Scroll setup, twin waste, DP, dumps, Turbo... $3500+

We have hit the $10,000 mark...

This doesn't include any supporting systems that would be VITAL to engine life.

Example: SS Lines, Fluid Damper, Twin Plate Clutch, Aluminum or Carbon Driveshaft, Engine & Trany Mounts... this list could easy go on for another obnoxious mount $$$$.

Basically...
I have been building my car for over 6 years with all the above mentioned parts, and I still am not at a point where its drivable!!

Point being... 6 years - 1 car - $60,000... is it worth it???

-Drew

Dabie305

1 up mad scientist!! my mazworx tally hit $15,000 a while ago. no turbo, no ecu, no ignition, no clutch, no fuel. no shit!!! even bought the rods and pistons myself. lol im right around 40-50k for my fully built silvia. no labor included. All mech. labor and body work done by me! I stopped counting long ago. if you really sit there and count i dont think any of us would build an sr. for 500hp go 2jz plain n simple. BTW i hope to be done within the next 6 months. 900+ hp here i come.

OBEEWON

SR is def not cost effective for high hp.

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kalypso123

350 is enough