ApexKillah

Sweet thanks man

newdie

Good progress! I was hoping to see this thing at driftvalley.

ApexKillah

Lol I just realized I watched your car on thatDudeinBlue's YouTube channel a while back. Good stuff man. Hopefully I'll see you guys out at drift valley next year with my 240.

bmaddock

Thanks man! I'm gonna have to miss the upcoming one due to a mountain bike race but I'll be at the May Matsuri event put on May 30th.

Haha oh yeah, he lives right by my parent's house. He stopped by yesterday and I gave him a bunch of gopro video for the next update. Teaser..


For those just now checking this thread out, here's the tutorial thread going along with it: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=594842

__________________

super240sx7185

Hard to tell in the pic of the stubborn gear but it looks like you may have broken a couple of the tiny teeth of the back. If so replace it because the car will not run with any of those missing. I made the same mistake before lol

bmaddock

http://i.imgur.com/3acHU3B.jpg
Stupid close, was supposed to be running last Sunday but all the very small stuff left is taking me forever to do right. I'm really happy with the way everything fit and the way I'm doing this build. Can't wait!

Aiming for the middle of June DriftValley and/or the July 4th event.


Yeah I actually replaced that pulley when I noticed it.

__________________

Apex Eight

Looks awesome man. Nice work

bmaddock

More garage rambling..
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=594842

__________________

bmaddock

OOPS, I updated my local forum build thread but forgot about Zilvia....



I moved last month and haven't had much time with my car. It sat at my parent's while I was settling and then found it's way to my friend's dad's garage to sit another 20 minutes away in a different direction. Despite that I have started driving it around every other weekend. Hoping to rent a garage near my apartment soon so i can get all of my remaining kinks sorted out.

Remaining issues:
- Overheating. It runs around 200 on the highway with fans on. I could deal with that, just a little hot for my taste since we have such nice, cool Fall temps now. One day mid-cruise I stopped for food and afterward it heatsoaked or boiled and created an air pocket because then once back on the road it kept creeping up to 220 which is when I pulled over to cool off. Limped it home and now need to figure this out.

Current cooling setup:
- FAL 420 shrouded dual fans (12V relayed source with correct wiring)
- single pass aluminum radiator
- new oem waterpump
- blitz 1.3 rad cap
- new oem thermostat
- PS cooler mounted to radiator
- intercooler
- upper cooling panel
- NO lower duct or panel
- silicone hoses
- factory oil cooler (attached to oil filter piece) still in tact
- engine is literally 2mm away from the fans..tight packaging
- Toyota Red 50/50 mix that is well bled
- heater core intact and functional

Adding a lower panel between bumper, intercooler and lower part of the rad and hoping for the best. If not I'll try external oil cooler.


- Lack of Power. (resolved) At first my car felt extremely sluggish and a lack of low-end torque. Once you revved past 3K it would start to pick up but just felt terrible. I thought it might be timing issue or something because I was building boost just fine. After some research and testing some things, I think I found the factory recirc bypass valve was leaking. I built a block off plate and suddenly I was spinning tires again. I later ran into what i thought was boost cut issues but I think the plate started to leak (no gasket). I ended up blocking all of this off and it feels great now and pulls hard in boost.

- Slow drip from high pressure PS line fitting at the rack. This is likely from overtightening the stupid plastic o-ring that is used to seal the rack adapter. Gonna replace next week.

- Exhaust too low. I suck at exhaust work and accidentally aimed it downward while welding up the mid pipe. Should be an easy fix but haven't been at my friend's shop to do the work yet. It's also stupid loud. Somehow louder than my friend's hood exit, big single 2J swapped 240 or my old straight piped KA-T. Muffler is coming.

A taste of how good it sounds ..



I'll update later this week/month once I get around to resolving some of these problems.

__________________

ATLspeed

Nice nice nice. The coolant temp being at 200 is how mine is on mine. Even while cruising around. Our front bumpers just suck (can't even make a pun with it lol) at allowing air through.

*Your exhaust sounds just as loud as my 4in oval straight pipe exhaust lol

__________________
93 s13 Vert - 2jz/cd009 -- parted/sold
95 Supra Turbo

bmaddock

Small update: Added lower ducting, new PS fitting, received new motor mounts (oil pan is too low) and found a local TIG welder. Almost there to feeling confident in the car and getting back on the track.


Lower ducting panel helps tremendously. I still need to go for a longer cruise and see if I can get it 100% heatsoaked again but did a few donuts and beating on it and it held 200 well. Might finish off the ducting and do the sides soon.

I had another boost leak spring up and need to boost leak test again. Something goofy is going on with one of my block off plates/plugged lines I'm betting.

Below is a video of me accelerating out of my R&D location in Mexico..
https://instagram.com/p/9kByEhnZnS/?...=thebenmaddock

__________________

relaxamigo

Driftvalley is the greatest place on earth! Bummed the season just ended. Enjoyed reading your thread, that thing looks mean! Hope to see ya next year

bmaddock

Black Hand is made up of 4 other guys in Richmond that I hang out with and created this group. The group includes Thomas (RB25 hatch), Brandon (2JZ coupe), Jeremy (KA-T hatch), Josh (RB25 zenki) and myself.We're gonna try and start uploading more videos to the Black Hand youtube page, you should SUBSCRIBE to us if interested.

Anyways, my car is running great! I've since redone my exhaust including an upgraded downpipe and muffler and fixed a major vacuum leak that was only present when warmed up. Have a few small things to do before I'm ready for 2016 season and actually making it to events again. I'm so sick of hardparking and taking my time with this build. I've set a personal goal to race each month, whether that be drifting or mountain biking, so expect more frequent posts.

__________________

Ramonesfreak2010

Hey are you that dude from Thatdudeisblue channel? Or was at least in a few of the videos I think. Helping some kid with his SR start.

Edit: Oops totally skipped the video in the first post. Nice!

bmaddock

Winter Update: Not much been going on other than final prep for the spring and continuing to work out small driveability stuff.

I had a break-up issue under full boost that I cured with tightening my spark plug gap (.035 to .032). My fuel pump fuse popped one night so I'm going to start monitoring that, no frays in the wire or places to ground, maybe the pump is on its way out. Lowered the car a bit more and got an alignment, but am now out of room on the tie rods and still have some toe-in. This is because I'm using a rack spacer for more angle. I've ordered S14 outers and Z32 inners to remedy this issue. I also replaced my rear trans seal but R154 is notorious for leaking out the back. Now using a W58 rear seal because supposedly it's a little more snug and less likely to leak. I also welded on some shiny tips to my exhaust to prevent the bumper from melting more.

Alignment day:


Got to cruise around with some friends, fun having so many setups to compare mine to: (left to right; 2J T67, KA-T, SR, RB25, and then mine)


Ignore the hanging lip I didn't fix after alignment but also did some fun ricey mods I've always wanted, underglow hahaha, eat your heart out DIW thread:

__________________

bmaddock

Update:

Well I think I found my heatsoak issue out on my way to a local 804 Nissan meet. I had almost made it to the brewery when I lost all power and popped my main fuse. What happened is my positive wire running from the trunk to the engine bay melted in several spots along the trans tunnel. I don't know how I had overlooked that in doing so I also killed my alternator. Limped it back home and waiting on a new alternator and wiring now. I was extremely lucky there was no fire or worse consequences from this. Running shielding now and keeping the wire on the opposite side the exhaust runs. Here's a pic of two of the hot spots:


David also released the final video for my swap thread (filmed before I shorted the wire). Enjoy!


And here's a cool picture I took while stopping by Jspec to see if I could snag an alternator..

__________________

corkscrew

Have any pics of what you did for the fuel lines and heater lines?

bmaddock

Two weeks ago I did my first drift event with the 1J, but before that I had some last minute issues with alternator and had to replace it. Supposedly SC300 ones will work but I had a tough time finding ones locally so ended up going to ebay off of a recommendation. Eagle Auto Electric hooked me up with two-day shipping and an awesome 130A alternator. I ran upgraded wiring and fuse to support this and got the car running the Friday before the event haha.


I have really awesome friends with cooler cars than mine that came and drove with me too. Thank you Josh for towing my jalopy! It was my first time being towed to an event


Grid life. Thanks Fresh Roots guys for putting on a fun event






Car ran great all day. It was 40 degrees out so temps were never an issue. 1J is very predictable and felt great being back out there after such a long gap in no seat time. Still working through some driver improvement but hoping to have some better results this upcoming weekend at Summit Point.

Unfortunately I'll be missing car show weekend.

__________________

bmaddock

Mechanically the car is near 100%. I still have that weird heatsoak issue and a leaky tailshaft (replaced the seal twice, I think the trans bearing might be on its way out), but finally getting around to some short and simple modifications this car deserves.

Up next for this build in no order:
- 5 lug swap
- 3piece wheels
- aero
- bodywork
- paint
- vert door removal
- new carpet
- possibly reupholster rear seats
- more seat time

This week I prepped for vert door removal. In the early 90s, automatic seat belts were required in all US cars. These were originally coupes from Japan when they were sent to California and modified by ASC to become convertibles. In order to comply with safety regulations, bracing was added under the chassis, in the doors and seat belts placed on the door because of the retractable roof that typically housed the seatbelt tracks.

It's said that each door contains an additional 40 pounds of bracing and seatbelts!


I'm using Maxima seatbelts and installing them to the chassis. A lot of people use the rear seat belts but I was an idiot and cut those out when installing the roll bar years ago.

Yo dawg, i herd u like seatbelts...

Gonna swap the doors this weekend after Cars & Coffee.

__________________

corkscrew

Damn dude what the hell caused the wire to melt and arch?

bmaddock

I ran it unshielded directly over my exhaust path (JZ is on the passenger side). It's ran fine for months but i guess after enough heat cycles it started to wear through. I'm lucky I know and should have shielded the wire but it was just a mistake on my part. I now have a new wire, shielded that runs along the driver side instead.




Small update, my roommate (hokie240) and I made a purchase...


BODY KITS! (I also deleted the door pillar)


VIS B-speed, or BN style. Thank you Zach at Sonic Motor! We fitted hokie240's kit on and out of the box fitment and quality was good, no complaints. Over the next few weeks I'll put mine on and start getting it prepped for paint. 5-lug and wheels will be coming too, I'm really excited to have nice paint on my car!

I'll be at Drift Nirvana at Summit Point this weekend, come say hi if you're there!

__________________

corkscrew

I love the new aero holy shit man

Sleepy_Steve

Not painted. I see ben got really excited after opening the box with Thomas.

It's cool though, when I finally have to put overs on my car, I'll probably leave them black for a bit too.

__________________
'95 240 | @SleepySteve72

bec1488

How do the JNC wheels fit up front, would they stick out past the fender on stock camber? Any rubbing?

bmaddock

No they don't poke out, they're pretty weak offset. 17x8+30 all around. Looks ok, fits with minimal roll of the stock fenders.

I have another set of wheels I'm looking to put on soon but still waiting on tires. Finally gonna try and step my wheel game up! 18s!!


Thanks dudes, yeah gonna wait to completely mount the kit. Lining up paint dates so hopefully its at most a week once fully kitted and then off for paint.

Pic from driving to work this morning, can't wait to finally clean this car up and get rid of those ugly scratches from Shenandoah:

__________________

Sleepy_Steve

You should do overs. Big ones.

__________________
'95 240 | @SleepySteve72

relaxamigo

twohundredandforty

sex!!!

bmaddock

Well this weekend I took a stab at resolving my issues. I flushed out my system, bled it out well, ran straight water with water wetter, and installed a Mishimoto low-temp thermostat.


Although the car did run cooler in town and came back to operating temps quickly, I still got hot at highway speeds. I was positive the lower temp thermostat and water wetter wouldn't change much but had to reassure myself.

Diagnosing this I'm left with either:
- Not enough airflow
- Ineffective radiator
- Bad headgasket


With shrouded Flexalite fans, ducting and wind from traveling at 70mph, I feel that airflow is sufficient. I've compression tested and checked both oil and water and see no signs of a bad headgasket. That leaves us with ineffective radiator. I've ordered an SR Koyo N-Flow radiator. This radiator features cross flow and is a dual pass unit meaning the coolant passes twice across the radiator before exiting. I think this is the last piece of the puzzle. Others have had success with this radiator and I look forward to confirming it as a solution.

__________________

Black240Ct

interested to see how the N flow works for you. I'd like to get this radiator or some 3 inch thick circle track rad off of summit.

Im running a normal koyo SR rad, low temp thermostat, Spal 3k cfm puller fan and i cut out my rad support to tilt the radiator as far forward as i can.

street driving I am around 170 to 180 with no fan on. on track I get to 210 with no fans, 190 with fans, and in the staging lanes it comes down to 180/185 fairly quickly with the fan on.

maybe your issue isnt enough air flow or room between the rad and motor?

bmaddock

I'm honestly making a lot of these changes based off of your post in 2J swap thread, I'm envious of your temps! haha.

You know I considered that an issue but decided to go a little overkill with going to the koyo n-flow radiator as well. This is the last "pain" from this swap that I've lived with for a year now but it's time to remedy it. Next track day is July 30th so I should have real results to report then.

Radiator will be tilted forward when the koyo goes in as well to avoid hitting the TB coupler. If I had better access to TIG I'd like to shorted my TB eventually to create more room but only have easy access to a MIG.

__________________