jumboflan

I recently noticed rust or brown muddy water in coolant resorvoir and n under radiator cap. So I drain. And now I'm about to do a flush with blue devil 3-1 radiator flush. I took off upper radiator hose and saw like a metal chunk. Is this bad?? I was going to replace thermostat too. Should I remove and replace thermostat after I do the flush with radiator cleaner. The original thermostat and hoses and radiator on this car. 1993

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jumboflan

This came out of my upper radiator hose. Even though I drained coolant system 1 day earlier. There should nt be any in there right according to gravity. Maybe my radiator is clogged

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S14rebuild

Take the thermostat out. Reinstall outlet, run a hose thru the upper hose and let it drain out the lower... replace the radiator. And ur heatcore will be destroyed. Ive had sucess using generic coolant flush liquid, but no lie on a friends civic he ran water and 2 bottles of CLR. drove it around about 5miles and then flushed it all.


I had a motor that sat for years and the coolant ate away the block to the point it destroyed a cylinder sleeve....

Ur gonna be replacing, radiator, water pump, tbermostate, heater core, all the hoses and freeze plugs. That motor is fukkd

jumboflan

I think I know where the broken rusted metal came fro.m. It's that. Breather or air hose connected to upper radiator union where it recirculation back to the lower radiator hose.
S14rebuild do you think my ka24de can still be salvaged. I didn't drive since 2017. I started up a few times and drove around for 20-30 mins like once every few months since 2017.

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S14rebuild

Doesnt look like its worth ur time and $...id be looking for a new block...

Everything is gonna be rotted out and leaking...

jumboflan

Welp I put new thermostat in old one was caked in lime calcium rust. I hope the car will run good after I flush with clr and water wish me alot of luck I'm done waiting for gasket to dry. I didn't know you have to take off radiator shroud. It makes it so much easier. Without radiator fan shroud blocking. I hated taking it off though. I got it off and flung it on garage floor. Then one tab broke. Oh well have the other side. Still. Thanks S14rebuild

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jumboflan

I flush radiator like 4 times with twice blue devil 3-1 radiator rust oil cleaner. And then I flush twice with water and drove yesterday. I drove to south San Jose, CA. From San Francisco. It was going good. Until I got to my destination. Right when car came to stop at parking lot the temp Guage went up. I saw smoke steam from under hood. Then I turned heat all way up. It came down a little, then went back up so I shut off engine. The coolant was burping out the coolant resorvoir. I knew something up while I was flushing out. It only took 3. 5 quarts before radiator filler hole would fill to top. I guess too much rust.
I'm radiator over last 6 years.

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jumboflan

After San Jose I came back home and took 1.5 hours to get back at 4am. Alot of road construction. I had to get off road 4 times because detour. And bad planning. I didn't know how to navigate back home but it didn't overhear because I had heat on full Blast. It wasn't fun coming home I was ready to scream. My engine was getting fucked. I drive without insurance or registration for 5 years already. But this time I had imminent threat of breaking down. Highway 101 north from south sj to San Francisco Airport all under construction.

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S14rebuild

Told you, its gonna be a never ending or winning battle with a block and cooling components that rusted out.

mechanicalmoron

That stuff looks more like bars. Either way, you're a drama queen. Wash it out already, put your choice of color antifreeze in it, and move on.

You took off your fan shroud, not a good direction to go if your shits overheating. It's what makes the air moved by the fan actually go through the radiator. Your A/C fan also comes on to stop a 240 overheating, so don't "delete" things willy-nilly.

Did you put a cap on it? It'll boil if it's not holding pressure, and the cap is the pressure regulator.

andisan

Did you put a new radiator in it?

That?s what I would do first, and I had an overheating problem but that?s because I didn?t bleed it right, KA are picky to bleed, or maybe it was me being impatient and wanting to get the car on the road


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mechanicalmoron

There is absolutely nothing to bleeding a KA cooling system.

There is no need to jack the car to exactly 35.3 degrees and bounce alternate diagonal corners until the bubbles spell "done", no matter what the internet says.

If it bubbles forever, it's up to temp and boiling, because you have the cap off. Just like in this thread - his shit was boiling because his cap's bad, and/or his fan's not working.

Rust is bad, and you'll know why when all your freeze plugs start gushing. And when they do, you'll need to pull the engine to get to them all - and there will still be nothing wrong with the engine that a new one would solve.

If you've got your stock metal radiator, fuck replacing that, alumaseal will do you better than a plastic tank crapper, you have to spend quite a lot of money before you're matching OE quality.

Put kool-aid, and a new cap. Go from there.

Did I say cap? Say cap with me. The boiling point raises with pressure, your cap is the pressure regulator, if it's bad, your coolant will boil over at operating temp, no ifs ands or butts. You cannot begin to diagnose the cooling system without a good cap.

jumboflan

Just picked it up today at orielly. Will get a new cap too

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S14rebuild

Please knock out 1 freeze plug in the block, easy to get to and see how corroded it is...just to give u an idea how much rust ur really lookn at

jumboflan

Okay @s14rebuild s14rebuid

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S14rebuild

lol.....just tryn to save u from a nightmare of constant leaks nightmares thats all

Kingtal0n

1. remove thermostat so rust chunks dont get stuck
2. with engine running, unplug the upper rad hose so the water can drain out, then use a hose and flush with tap water until the water looks normal and rust is gone. Flush for at least 30 minutes. Rev the engine a bit sometimes to help push the water.

3. put the hose back on and drive the car a little to free up more rust

4. Repeat (2. and 3.) until all rust is gone

5. Now if there is still questionable rust chunks leave the thermostat out for the next part. Otherwise reinstall thermostat.

6. Fill radiator with 100% distilled water, flush the rad and engine until it only has 100% distilled water. From this point onwards, NEVER put tap water inside the engine again. ONLY distilled.

7. Use some kinds of radiator cleaning agent. This step might take 1-3 weeks because sometimes you can drive with the rad-flush juice for many days at a time.
Use any Radiator flush from auto part stores. Try different versions over time if you like, first week this one. Next week a new one. Next week a different one again, etc... Flush again and again with distilled water and keep using radiator flush from the auto-store and distilled water until the water you drain looks normal. The rad flush stuff will help clear the last remaining bit of junk from the system and the distilled water is necessary to maximize the effects of rad flush juice that you buy from the store.

8. After removing all 'radiator flush juice' by flushing again with 100% distilled water, You can put on all new parts you can access that were rusty (radiator, thermostat, hoses, metal outlets, metal tubes, anything you can comfortably change that had rust in it or is rusty) now that the water looks normal.

9. At this point you should have 100% distilled water and all new radiator and parts in the engine and good looking water. Now, to keep it that way, add anti-freeze as required by location, i.e. In Florida I use 10% anti freeze (because it never freezes here) but up north you will need more anti-freeze. Use the least amount of anti-freeze possible. Water is better at cooling, but some anti-freeze is necessary to prevent the distilled water from eating the metal parts over time.