dudewutup

HERE IT IS! this thread is to help you guys, if you find any errors let me know and they will be corrected asap!


origonal uncut obdi ka24de harness
2003 vq35 engine harness
black tape
wire pliers
soldering gun/iron
a large flat serfice
the "everything that is vq zip file"MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service
lots of extra wire
a few hours

paitence
knife or razorblade
a quiet area to work in (i did mine at work)
a computer with internet access close by
general knoladge of wiring
masking tape for lableing your wires(trust me this makes life easy)
some tunes to keep you company

anything that was not mentioned before (duh)

The first thing i reccomend is to get aquainted with the type of wiring you are going to come in contact with, study the ecu plug for the vq35(page 103 of the ec.pdf in the 350z service manual.zip) and f3(f395240sx.jpeg) plug for the 240sx. i will be retaining my abs so i will also give instruction on how to keep it, if you dont have abs or dont plan to keep it simply skip this part of the wrightup.


Alright all brushed up on the location and layout of the plugs we will be dealing with? good.....

next we get to do a little bit of creative deconstruction. get your ka24 harness and remove all the black tape and loom.
it should look somrthing like this:


hopeflly you havn't cut any wires yet! now we want to remove the f3 and abs plugs from the harness. start with the f3 plug, the trick is to keep the wires that run to the engine bay and ecu relay and cut the ones that run to the ecu. be sure that you leave yourself atleast 6" of wire from the f3 plug. now you cut all your excess wires (leave yourself atleast 6" of course) you need to keep the wiper harness conector and the ecu relay plug. you should be left with 3 plugs f3, ecu relay, and wiper motor plug.

next we ned to remove the abs,just as you did with the f3 plug remove it from the main harness. cut the wires leading to the ecu and retain all the rest.

at this point if you had any grounds lable them.

the next thing we want to do is lable the wires coming from your f3 plug.

use this diagram(1995240sx) and lable what you have.

alright its break time, wash your hands, grab a snack,watch a little tv, and prepare for the scary part of this whole process!


its time to become really aquainted with the vq35 ecu plug.

this is probably the scaryest part of the swap and its not even that bad.

LABEL EVERYTHING AS YOU CUT IT! DO NOT LEAVE UNLABELD WIRES HANGING AROUND!!

in order here are the wires to cut, the color code, and what to lable. leave yourself atleast 6".

1 b engine ground
82 b/w aap ground
83 g/r aap2 ground
85 lg data link conector
86 r CAN communication line
90 lg aap power supply
91 b/or aap2 power supply
94 l CAN communication line
98 g/b aap pedal position2
106 g/or aap pedal position 1
109 w/b ign switch
111 gy/l ecm relay
113 lg/b fuel pump relay
115 b/w ground
116 b/r ground
119 g/y power supply for ecm
120 p power supply for ecm
121 r/w power supply (back up)

23 r/b injector signal bank 1 (used for tach)



That wasnt so bad was it? here is some quick shots of what i got.....



tired of lableing wires yet?didnt think so, we have two more things to lable.
we will start off with the gas pedal. i dont have exact measurements but you should need 4-6' to span across from the gas pedal to the ecu. its best to try to get wire that matches the color that it should be. solder everything because all of this is voltage sensitive.

here is the basic numbered pinout, i used a g35 gas pedal instead of a 350z so there were some color diffrences.


use my pin positions and label everything.

Z33 Gas pedal plug E123 pinout goes like this

Plug Pin Color ECU Pin Color(if color changed) What its labled
Pin 1 Green/Red
Pin 2 Red/Yellow
Pin 3 Black/White
Pin 4 Black/Orange
Pin 5 Yellow
Pin 6 Blue

if you have wire to match pins 1-6 it will make life much easier.


next is adding wire to your obdii port. depending on were you locate your port the distance can vary greatly, and as aleays the same color wire really helps.

Z33 OBDII Plug goes as follows

1 emtpy
2 empty
3 empty
4 Black (Ground) Behind instrument cluster Plug M30
5 Black/White (Ground) Right side of dash Plug F152 (Turns black at plug)
6 Blue (CAN Line H)
7 Purple (K line)
8 Green/Yellow 10amp Hot IN or ON Start
9 Empty
10 Empty
11 Empty
12 Empty
13 Empty
14 Empty
15 Red (CAN Line-L)
16 Red/White 15amp Hot At All Times



now for the fun part tieing everything in

we will start off with the f3 plug

F3 --------------->ecu

1 b/r 119 g/y & 120 p
11 b/p 113 lg/b


then the gas pedal

pedal ------------>ecu

Pin 1 Green/Red ----------- Pin 83---------------- GndA2
Pin 2 Red/Yellow ---------- Pin 98 (Green/Blk) --- ApS2
Pin 3 Black/White --------- Pin 82 --------------- GndA
Pin 4 Black/Orange ------- Pin 91--------------- AVC C2
Pin 5 Yellow --------------- Pin 106 (Grn/Orng) -- Aps1
Pin 6 Blue ------------------ Pin 90 (LghtGrn)----- AVC C

and last the obdii port
port ecu personal
4 b n/a ground
5 b/w n/a ground
6 l 94 l n/a
7 pu 85 lg n/a
8 g/y n/a ign sorce
15 r 86 r n/a
16 r/w n/a 12V +

What remains from the ecm....

1 b ground
111 gy/l from output from the ecu relay
115 b/w ground
116 b/r ground
109 w/b ign sw
121 r/w 12+ constant




if you followed this guide and took it step by step, your ecu has had nats removed, and you have an engine in the car. you should be able to start it up.
















sources and credits:
IRAX: 2003 350z complete .pdf
sourceing obdii pinout
sourceing gas pedal plug pinout
giving me that extra kick in the ass to make this wrightup happen
talking tech with me
and his vast knoladge of the s-chasis
om1krom: for the f3 pinout


thanks to everyone who may have helped me! and enjoy the gift to the community.

__________________

Guess I can't call it a 240....