sr20det hard to start when cold - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

GSXRJJordan · 03-26-2009, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacoboy

I'm having the exact same issue as the OP. However, all of the wiring is legit and the orange wire is getting 12.5 volts when starting. Any other ideas? Could it be coolant temp sensor? Only happens when cold, the throttle needs to be cracked a bit, and I get a bit of black smoke (unburnt fuel).

Cheers!

Could definitely be the 3-pin CTS. It's only a few bucks from FRsport, good idea to replace it if your wiring's all 100%.

beatd · 03-30-2009, 01:07 PM

would this work on my KA-T. because i'm having the same exact problems right now and i'm tried everything you can possibly think of

93 Sr Hatch · 04-09-2009, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STEVES14

setup
95 240sx with sr20det swap
GT30R, JWT ECU 3 bar program 740cc nismo injectors, Z32 mafs, intercooler, exhuast clutch, and so on
(no cams, stock)

Parts replaced before i start asking for help
CAS, coolant temp sensor, ingnitior, coil packs, O2 sensor, PCV valve, spark plugs, recheck grounds, to the coil packs and ecu grounds
oooooh.... and ecu code 21

ok heres the problem, it's been heappeing the last 2 months for some reason when the car is cold its a bitch to start i have to keep it at WOT for like 5 sec just for to catch alittle and then i feather the gas stumbles a bit for like .5 sec and idles like a champion at 1500-1700 rpm warms up a bit and drops down to 900rpm and holds strong the car drives fine all the power is there, so after i drive the car for a bit park it for like 2 hours go back to it it fires right up like it was a new car strange

but after i drive the car again and park it over night it starts all over again

so to sum it up
when the motor is cold hard to start
when the motor is warm or hot FIRES right up with no issue
no matter what temp it's outside 30F or 100F if the motor is cold it's a bitch
to start

please help

i am kinda having the similar problem but im on e85... but it just recnetly started being a bitch to start

STEVES14 · 05-31-2010, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93 Sr Hatch

i am kinda having the similar problem but im on e85... but it just recnetly started being a bitch to start

Did u check to see if your ecu is getting 12 volts to pin number 34???? that was my problem the whole time!!!! and i blow my money on coolant temp sensors tps sensors mising with the tune, u name it!!!!! and the whole time it was the wiring!!

obsolete · 11-19-2010, 08:35 AM

Does anyone know what I should look for for a s14 sr20 in a '97 240? I am having this exact problem as OP

edit: looks like this start signal is Orange on 97 240 so if that connects to pin 43 for s14 sr ecu, then it should work the same? How does the car start without the ecu getting this signal in the first place?

obsolete · 11-25-2010, 09:21 AM

Best thread ever!

spools420a · 10-13-2016, 04:28 PM

Sorry for bumping such a old thread but could you just cut the orange wire at the ecu then run a wire from ignition "start" wire directly to the orange wire or even just splice a wire into the orange wire without cutting it or would this interfere with the tach?I had cut and redid my starter wiring and now have this cold start issue.

S14kouki805 · 10-13-2016, 05:20 PM

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spools420a · 10-15-2016, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

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In that case all that needs to be done for s13 sr20det is wire a wire directly to starter ignition switch the wire that's on the starter that connects from ignition switch that's only live when turning the switch to start "cranking" from the new wire you wired to this goes directly to ecu pin 34
Its a orange wire with silver stripe but don't confuse it with boost solenoid wire directly opposite from it as its orange as well.look up pinout to be sure.anyways the reason we wire this to ingition wire is this tells the computer
you are starting the engine and therefore compensates by spraying all 4 injectors while it cranks which fires up engine faster.BTW I did accidentally wire up to orange boost solenoid by accident and no damage happened just to let you know,but when I wired to the correct orange wire she fires up instantly.I did not cut orange wire I just spliced into the wire and alls good.

11-19-2010, 08:35 AM	#35
obsolete Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: NJ Age: 41 Posts: 717 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Does anyone know what I should look for for a s14 sr20 in a '97 240? I am having this exact problem as OP edit: looks like this start signal is Orange on 97 240 so if that connects to pin 43 for s14 sr ecu, then it should work the same? How does the car start without the ecu getting this signal in the first place? Last edited by obsolete; 11-19-2010 at 10:02 AM..

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03-30-2009, 01:07 PM	#32
beatd Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: NJ Age: 35 Posts: 87 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	would this work on my KA-T. because i'm having the same exact problems right now and i'm tried everything you can possibly think of

11-25-2010, 09:21 AM	#36
obsolete Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: NJ Age: 41 Posts: 717 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Best thread ever!

10-13-2016, 04:28 PM	#37
spools420a Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: phoenix az Age: 39 Posts: 422 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Sorry for bumping such a old thread but could you just cut the orange wire at the ecu then run a wire from ignition "start" wire directly to the orange wire or even just splice a wire into the orange wire without cutting it or would this interfere with the tach?I had cut and redid my starter wiring and now have this cold start issue.

10-13-2016, 05:20 PM	#38
S14kouki805 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: California Age: 39 Posts: 808 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Subscribing for later viewing...