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This is our new adjuster design, a hybrid clamp and jam nut combination. This design uses a billet aluminum clamp on the rod end side and a jam nut on the arm side, to lock down your alignment setting.

We are using the clamp design for several reasons: with the old jam nut design, when tightening the jam nut on the rod end, that has a tendency to rotate the rod end. This makes it difficult to hold the alignment setting, as the rod end threads in/out combined with the jam nut stretching the thread, the alignment can shift 1/16" or more. It also makes it difficult to keep the spherical bearing centered to prevent binding under suspension travel. To get an accurate alignment while keeping the bearing centered becomes a tricky juggling act. The clamp design solves all these problems, allowing the alignment to be set without moving the rod end.

We continue to use a jam nut on the arm side because I have found that because of its size, it can be tightened without moving the adjuster or changing the length of the arm.

FWIW the new adjuster drives up our production cost on each pair of arm by $10-15. It is much more expensive than a 20cent jam nut. But for now we are keeping prices unchanged. All our v2 arms can be upgraded to the new adjuster, I will put up the upgrade information later this month.

Here is a picture of all our rear arms equipped with the new adjuster:



I need to poll you guys about using a different finish on our suspension arms. We have been using chrome since the beginning because of its high chip resistance and cosmetic appearance. However chrome being a tough finish, develops micro-cracks and pinholes, which are usually not visible, but can cause small rust bubbles to develop over a long period of time, in certain climates.

I have been looking into different finishing possibilities. I wanted to avoid powdercoating because once chipped, powdercoat tends to come off in chunks. Also it creates problems with threaded parts. The finish I came up with is Cadmium w/ Black Chromate plating, followed by baking to reduce hydrogen embrittlement. Cadmium plating has better corrosion resistance compared to chrome, it will also prevent long term galvanic corrosion of the steel arm if the arm gets exposed to any salt. And because we can get these baked after plating, it will actually make the parts a little stronger (less hydrogen embrittlement). The downside is that it is not as good looking as chrome...

To compare, this is our chromed rear upper arms:



Here is the new "Stealth Black" rear upper arms:



The poll question is: if only the "Stealth Black" finish was available, would that otherwise deter you from buying the product? ie. You would buy the chromed product, but not the "Stealth Black".

It would be too difficult for me to try to stock both finishes, so I have to decide whether to switch everything to "Stealth Black", or keep the chrome.

tacotacotaco

Stealth black!

DreamN

Edit: Read the thread thoroughly this time and the stealth black is an improvement on an already improved item so that's a big yes to Stealth Black then. Are those arms for both the s13 and s14?

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Yup all 3 arms fit S13 and S14 chassis. Our toe arms come with 2 sets of bushings (not shown) that allows it to fit both chassis. The traction rod is common to both. The rear upper arm is also designed to fit on both chassis.

ILoveMyRHS13

I love the stealth black!

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cgtdream

The stealth black is lookin good...I would def. buy those over the chromed ones...

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sumfknguy

stealth black ftw!

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240trainee

Stealth black looks good to me.

I need to pick up some shit in the near future from you too.

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MrD

stealth black please!

IStop4NoMan

i agree with stealth black.

Its great how you guys are looking to improve your designs. i do notice with the MR arms i have that the rod ends do twist a lot when trying to lock the jam nut. also the rod end does swivel making it hard to get the rod length correct. keep up the good work.

i wish i had gone with real arms to begin with like SPL

DreamN

Kuah, add a poll to the thread so you don't have to be counting each vote lol

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For Sale:
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exitspeed

I don't think he can now. Kuah, Let me know if you can't and I'll add it for you.

EDIT: Actually I don't see how to do it either.

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exitspeed

Stealthy Black for the win.

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gprb25

Stealth black FTW.

Lookin good SPL...keep it up

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blueshark123

stealth black ftw!

ROUGE180

CAPoweredS14

YES +1 on the Charlie Murphy!!

CAPoweredS14

I say add the poll I wanna vote on Stealth Black. I only wish SPL tagged their products.

highoctane

stealth black ftw

azndoc

I like the bling bling, but the stealth black looks cool.

Like sema flat black is what I call it.

As long as it works, I wouldn't care if it was in pink with white strips.

240trainee

My main concern would be the hex screws that you are using on the collar, I have night mares about those things and how they have a tendency to strip out.

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ellisonrox

when's v3 due to be out?

looks awesome

Slidin240Wayz

+1.

Make sure you put which size allen key to you.

Stealth black = YES!

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If they strip, just slip off the collar and use a worm gear hose/band clamp while you wait on a new collar from us But not to worry, it doesn't take much torque to lock down the collar, so chances of that happening is slim unless you get overzealous torquing it down.

!Zar!

THIS is why I fucking love SPL parts. You won't find customer service like this anywhere else!

I have had all the chrome arms and didn't really experience any rust bubbles. Maybe because I'm in cali?

I like the Stealth black. And honestly, function over form.

The black looks sick imo. I'm going to need to order a new set because I still haven't upgraded to the v3 stuff.

Now I have even more incentive to. hahah.


Most of the time they strip because people use those crappy, "L" key allen wrenches. And most of the time it's not even the nut that strips, it's the key that wears down. If you buy a real hardened allen set along with using a sufficient amount of blue threadlock, you're fine.

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pbcstylez

Also, dont ever use ball point hex keys.


Kuah,

How about gold chromate(Gold iridite/Zinc DiChromate) finish? It's corrosion properties are pretty good for almost all climates.

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Seller Feedback here:
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...ight=pbcstylez

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Zinc DiChromate is basically Zinc plating followed by yellow/gold chromate. Ours is Cadmium plate followed by black chromate. They are fairly similar, the color/type of the chromate conversion doesn't change the corrosion properties IIRC. However, Cadmium is preferred over Zinc for corrosion resistance.

steve shadows

Amazing, I could be watching the transformation of this market in front of my eyes

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Harbe

your suspension arms rust with the chrome, when do the stealth black rucas come available to buy my vote for the stealth black

how much for whats seen in the pic black rucas

Trion

Impressed by your research, regarding stress/crevice corrosion. This makes me really consider buying a set of arms! Would choose the black, due to it's benefits!