Dorifto Machine

Trust me, as soon as I heard the sound I didn't rev over 4,000 rpm. But yes very thankful there was no blood shed. Well there was minor blood shed that comes with owning a 240sx

Dorifto Machine

No doubt man! I have no problem being the example , everyone needs a good lesson. Im thankful to have gotten off with much less damage. But I highly agree Torque wrench and Loctite are imperative.


Yes very much so. I tried to be as descriptive and visually informative as possible via video analyzes but I understand sometimes they are skewed or exaggerated .

Dorifto Machine

So TPS was set to .16 . I adjusted it to .50 and the car does not die when shifted into neutral anymore. However, now the idle is between 1,000 -1,200.

cotbu

.50v and tps is probably not registering closed at idle.
set to .45v and adjust idle via iacv.

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LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

Dorifto Machine

I set it to .45 at first and the idle was sporadic and kept fluctuating non stop between 1,000 to 1,500

The IACV is tightened all the way, which should be the lowest idle, correct? The previous owner stripped the plastic IACV screw pretty bad so its a pain

cotbu

set it back and drive it for a few temps cycles.

After everything you've been through, I suggest you check base timing and set idle. You could fix this issue right then, or Do this.... set it to .45v let the temp reach 80 deg C, drive maybe 10mins, your idle should be found and stable but probably too low, if the screw is all the way down. move it up to stop the stalling.

When I fix this issue, I use temps, but you could use time if you can't control the engine fan

The IACV screw should never be all the way up or down. when everything is set and working properly.

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LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

codyace

100% Agreed. Also never hurts to get the TPS reset and re sort out the IACV/idle screw too.

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Dorifto Machine

Another update here :

The car has been driving fantastic minus the car dieing on Neutral randomly or when letting off the gas.

Idles after warmed up around 1,000 to 700 . TPS is set to .45
Timing is spot on.
I unscrewed the IACV about two quarters of a turn and its still dieing. Should I keep turning it ?

I recall before the Flywheel I had a friend who is familiar with SR20's come over and fixed the timing/ idle. The only way he could get the idle as low as it is no matter what was by adjusting what I guess is the Throttle Stop Screw. He was adjusting that and ever since then I'm pretty that's when the car started dieing in neutral.
Is there anyway to adjust that specifically in sync with the TPS or proper procedure ?

Thanks

di-devol

Vented BOV?

cotbu

You can either crack the throttle body back open, then set the tps to register closed and .45v, then set base idle.

or set the throttle body fully closed and then set the tps to .45v, then set base idle

With the throttle body cracked open, it's easier to get back to a stable idle and you just have to remember the throttle is always open for, tuning and maintenance.

Our engines are designed to idle with the throttle closed, but you can cheat if you need to. I haven't seen any ill affects from people doing this, but it does mask other symptoms like leaking injectors and vacuum leaks.

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Dorifto Machine

Re-circulated - HKS BOV and no difference.


I lost you at cracking the throttle back open. How open?

So adjust the screw so throttle is semi open then re-adjust tps back to .45 ?

Every-time the throttle screw is messed with it changes the values on the TPS correct?

cotbu

Sorry, your looking for idle! so crack open the throttle plate until you have a stable idle. I don't know what else to tell you. Yes the voltage for the TPS will change as the throttle opens, once you have a stable idle, set the tps to .45v. This is what should happen when you're almost finished. You go for a test drive come to a stop you idle will probably be high 1200rpm maybe, if so take a screwdriver and adjust the IACV to lower that rpm
I prefer under 1000rpm, once you do that you should be done, but i would go all he way back to checking base timing and idle, but you shouldn't have to.

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LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

Dorifto Machine

Roger that. So adjust Throttle plate then TPS then IACV. I'll mess with it some tommorow . Should the throttle plate be adjusted while the TPS is plugged in or out ?

ShadowMan

You know, it's a good thing your flywheel came loose, or you might not have found that oil squirter problem until it was way too late.haha How long after you put the flywheel on until it came loose? Just curious because I don't think I used loctite when I put my flywheel on. I have had the car running for a year or so now so I would think I'm in the clear and I followed all the torque specs, just no loctite.
Hopefully, people will read this thread and use it as an example on how to properly explain your problems with as much info and videos needed for others to help.

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cotbu

Good question..., tps disconnect and rev to above 3krpm 3 times. Cant believe i forgot that!

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LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

Dorifto Machine

Update: Dieing in neutral / decel RESOLVED!

It was definitely related to the throttle stop screw being opened a little too much.
Being that the stop screw was set , then tps was set based off the incorrect position it was causing the IACV to essentially overwork.

Based of my own study and multiple tests I resolved the Idle issue and Dieing in Neutral or Deceleration in this manner:

-Removed the Coupler from the throttle body to expose the throttle butterfly
- Unscrewed the 8mm nut on that locks the throttle stop screw
-Used appropriate allen key to
First, loosen stop screw completely
Second, tighten stop screw until it starts to move the butterfly which means its compressed against it.
-You will then verify TPS is set , I set mine to .45
--Cranked the car, let it get to 180 degrees then adjusted the idle with my IACV
-Take it for another drive and adjust IACV as needed for higher idle

So far I drove it for a couple hours and it hasn't died once.

Hope this helps someone else!