Guard1an

Hey all I am cross posting this on NICO as well, but I have a '95 (build 3/94) 240sx that I am doing a 5spd swap on. So the motor and trans swap was smooth as butter, but this wiring is kicking my butt, I still have the harness from the auto, and the 5spd harness is still on the trans, my only question is looking through my FSM, they only say E201 goes to E17......it doesn't actually say what the name is ie E17 speedometer sensor to E201 speedometer sensor etc I need help to figure out what to do with the following plugs from the 5spd harness, like i said i still have the auto harness if i need to cut and solder different plugs on




I thought the top white one was for the alternator, but i have a separate hook up right to the battery for that

and i already jumpered the interlock, but what about the rest of the plugs ?



I thought this stud was for the starter power wire ? but no nothing for it just a stud in the plastic fuse box not connected to anything



and heres a shot of the wiring nightmare as i got the motor swap, motor supposedly has forged internals and was boosted from the previous owner when my buddy the s14 (2/94) with the motor setup in it......



As you can See i have my work cut out for me, I could use any and all help, I want to keep the auto PCM for the higher rev limit and fuel cut out, but also have the manual PCM as well, I just want this car ready sooner than later, I miss the ac !!!!

Thanks,
-Mike

LoSt180

There's plenty of wiring guides out there for you, but to help a little:

The top connector is your alternator feed. It's unique to the 95 model. If your trans harness came from a 96+ model, then there may be a 90-degree terminal, that one connects to the post in the fuse box (that you say currently doesn't have anything connected).
The middle connector is for your starter, and oil pressure switch wire. On the 5-speed harness, it's that 3-pin triangle connector. You need to swap over the 2-pin connector from your auto harness to plug this in.
The bottom connector is the speedo/neutral/reverse connector. Except on the auto, it's really only the speedo.


You jump the top one for your starter interlock, as you've already done.
The third connector down (grey 8-pin) is where you'll need to connect up the reverse switch. Again see wiring guides (linked below) for which pins to use.
You can also use that connector to hook up the neutral switch, but you'll have to jump together the wires at the TCM connector under the steering wheel.



Here's a handy wiring guide online that may help: http://www.ka24development.com/cwilf...lectrical.html

As a side note, (and this may be a bit advanced) if you don't want to drill holes to run wires as per that wiring guide, you can "reclaim" some of the auto wires. So for neutral and 5-position switch, trace wires back to the TCM connector, then splice with wires that go from TCM to ECU, then move the corresponding wire to the correct pin on the ECU connector. Reference the FSM for that.

Hope that helps.

Guard1an

Thanks for posting up Lost180, yea i was trying to figure out the ka24de development stuff plus the one off NICO, I pulled off the mini starter/OP harness from the auto, and cut the 5th gear switch from the 3 prong manual harness plug, tied ( cut, soldered, shrink wrapped) the 5th gear prong into the OP wire, pulled the whole 5spd harness wrapped it up to make it pretty,




hooked the plugs up from it to the fuse box and boom it fired right up, idled like crap ( with both auto and manual ecu's) then died...........but the bigger problem is step on the gas ( all testing in neutral) car dies, slowly come off the gas car revs up then dies..... the motor was a from running driving car till it got totalled, all the wiring is exactly the same, well better soldered connections now lol, the only thing i can think of is when we where bringing the motor/trans set home, some jack wagon cut us off, so we had slam on the brakes and the motor set shifted and the dizzy smacked up against the engine hoist we had next to it and broke half the plug off the dizzy, I am gonna swap the dizzy from my known good running engine and see if that fixes it.....then i'll move onto the TB, then the top feed converted RC injectors...then ???

Guard1an

Most of those plugs went to the damn ABS so there is a huge pile of unused plugs balled up and in the corner now till i can figure out what i can and can't cut, i hooked the plugs up from it to the fuse box and boom it fired right up, idled like crap ( with both auto and manual ecu's) then died...........but the bigger problem is step on the gas ( all testing in neutral) car dies, slowly come off the gas car revs up then dies..... the motor was a from running driving car till it got totalled, all the wiring is exactly the same, well better soldered connections now lol, the only thing i can think of is when we where bringing the motor/trans set home, some jack wagon cut us off, so we had slam on the brakes and the motor set shifted and the dizzy smacked up against the engine hoist we had next to it and broke half the plug off the dizzy, I am gonna swap the dizzy from my known good running engine and see if that fixes it.....then i'll move onto the TB, then the top feed converted RC injectors...then ???

*UPDATE*well kinda got the car to run but it still has the same issue, step on the gas car starts to die let off and it revs up a little, but ultimately still dies, I have swapped over my known good maf and dizzy and still nothing.........

Guard1an

now its got me wondering if the crappy fuel set up has anything to do with how the motor is running.......


btw plug setup


I just want this damn car to run !!

Sleepy_Steve

Wiring specialties will solve most of your harness problems with one quick order man...

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'95 240 | @SleepySteve72