kawitwofiddy

Whats up dudes...
Saddle up for a long read......

so I recently slapped a turbo on my ka and am at a loss of ideas along with the people that work at the shop I intern at. SOOOO initially, I had a flashed ecu from nismotroinics just to get going on the road until I could go standalone/map/realtime. I had a z32 maf setup drawthrough with sr 370's on a .60 A/R t3 turbo, and open downpipe for now. Start it up, my afr's are in the 10.0-11.5:1 range, had a few things to work out, etc. I decide to try and let it see boost, and it cuts and sputters and overall just runs like shit. It's also idling like shit. Sounding cammed as fuck. I go over timing, and verify everything, reset distributor timing, and at this point I know its all dead on. I started it after playing with stuff and no good idle nothing. I' soldered the z32 maf wires, just every little thing I can think of. I decide to go back to 270's, s13 maf (havet soldered yet) and a buddies stock s13 ecu and see if my idle clears up and leans out closer to stoich. All put back to stock, I start it, and nothings changed. I put the maf directly on my intake, and noticed a loose coupler exiting my turbo. Pull it all off, maf on the intake I start it and it idles the best it has, and runs perfectly stoich. I go and tell the guy I work for and say it is cleaner now, by the time I come back its worked its way back down to the 10.0-11 range again but idles decent. Thinking weve made progress I slap my intercoolr setup back on and start it. 14.7 for about 10-15 seconds then right back down. it likes to sit right on 10.0 or 10.9. Its weird as hell. At the time it was maf straight to inlet with a coupler between, and no air filter. I put an air filter on and gave it some distance since then, with no change. My idle also has become shitty again, and actually clears up when unplugged along with TPS but stays rich. I also dont believe the maf is bad, because I purchased it(used still) shortly before going turbo and it fixed that problem. The other day I bypassed my turbo set up again, set up my maf directly to my intake, and it idled 1000x better, and I was finally able to truly time my dizzy. TPS disconnected, sat from 13-16, TPS connected, it was running 12<. Progress ithought... Nope. I reconnect my I/c setup and it initially runs and idles good, and slowly but surely becomes the wanna be cammed monster.

Things I've done since:

-swapped fuel rail because I was on 3 cylinders from leaky injector so that has been solved(I know I didn't mention above but still runs shitty.)
-I have strong spark on all cylinders. newer dizzy cap and rotor
-new o2 sensor
-tried to wire in my IAT sensor (HOW CRUCIAL IS THIS SENSOR?) its not wired in atm
-CTS sensor is relatively new- ~6 months old <5,000 miles
- It still usually sits at 14.6-9 upon COLD start up then creeps down by tenths of each number down to 10's.


MY next moves as of now are: (this is where your input is wanted)

-solder maf wires tomorrow
- maybe try other set up again
-find some scrap I/c piping to try a blow through maf setup (eliminate maf turbulence from the equation)
-test sensors
-I am working on getting a ms3x standalone with the DIY harness to eliminate any potential wiring problems if its not solved by then.
-I lost my job today so im pretty much survival mode until I get more income. So I will do as much as I can and spend as little money as possible for now.
-put maf back on intake and see what happens

My motor was put out of service for a timing chain replacement, along with mls hg and arp studs to prep for boost, and ended up going turbo at the same time. I removed all the emissions, removed tb coolant along almost all vacuum lines, cleaned all valves on manifold along with caked oil inside manifold from pcv, just a small rebuild.

Tried to be as descriptive as possible, but sure I missed something. Ill tryto get a video up some how for you all to see it. Thanks in advance fo any input.

Update! Video-4/7 just changed cts sensor and added legit turbo inlet...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAXiJRKj2q4