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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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05-29-2009, 04:39 PM | #1831 | |
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5/8" - jesus lol. That's like boat-hull status.
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05-30-2009, 12:41 AM | #1833 |
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Jonnie Fraz over at Stealth Custom Fab sent us over a pair of his fender braces. I must admit that these things are bad ass. The parts fit perfectly, and will give us that added stiffness the 240 has always been lacking.
Nice work man.
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06-02-2009, 09:04 AM | #1837 |
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Well, here is the latest version of my brake ducting set-up.
For the bumper ducts I used one single 3" duct (brake only) and one dual 3" duct (brake and intake) from pegasus. I managed to trim them just right so that they fit almost flush inside the stock bumper. I screwed the ducts into the bumper from the inside as there was really no other way to do it. For the hardware I used a bunch of the screws that hold the window trim onto the top of the doorsill on s-13's. I used them because they have a flat head, are just the right length, and pretty fat so they'll stay in better. I used my 1/4" air wrachet, a 1/4" drive socket, and a screwdriver bit to screw in the screws. This was the only way that I could figure out to attach the ducts as there is just not enough room to get any tools in there. All in all I must admit that I am pretty proud of the way these came out. For the hose itself I used some 3" brake hose that I got from maeco motorsports (my buddy's old shop) a long time ago. You can get it much cheaper online though. How the hose is fastened and protected from the tire is what I really stole from the shelby racecars. I used some 1/8" x 1" flat stock to actually hold the hose. I basically just bent it into a 3" box and left the bottom open. The hose is trapped in by the pinch weld at the bottom as well. To get the hose in you actually have to feed it through there. This bracket is actually bolted to the chasis using factory bolt holes. For tire protection I marked the position on the hose where the tire rubbed and built a shield out of some aluminum sheet metal that I had laying around. I simply riveted the shield in place. To give some additional tire clearence I crushed the hose right there to about 1/2 it's original diameter. With a 3" hose I am not worried about that constricting the flow too much. I ziptied it all together just to be safe. To attach the hose to the spindle I basically just took a stock dustshield and welded a piece of 3" exhaust pipe to it. I used a 3" hole saw to make the hole. I located the hole as close to the center as possible, in the rear of the shield, just on top of where the tie rod end attaches. When I went to the r-32 GTR brakes I had to trim the dust shield dramatically as it rubbed everywhere on the rotors. There is just barely enough room to sneak a hose in back there. The hose currently rubs on the nuts for the tie rod ends and has eaten small holes there. It rubs on the coilover at full lock a little as well, it used to rub on the stock swaybar endlink a little (now I have sphericals), and it rubs the brake line enough to crack the little plastic boot over the end of it. If you set it up just right there is just enough room to make it work without any binding. I decided to go to the back of the rotor because first of all it was easier, but also because you REALLY want that cooling air going through the center of the rotor more then the caliper. Well that's my set-up. Hopefully it will give some of you more ideas as to how to do yours. I just had to show off the sexy r-32 brakes too! |
06-02-2009, 10:26 AM | #1838 |
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very nice...
i was thinking about the same thing a lot as of lately. your solution seems to be the easiest and most functional. however, for people who drive their cars with increased steering lock (like me), your concept will not work so good. so i was thinking about routing the hose from the front end of the car through the space between the frame and the ARB and the tension rod. but depending on the hose diameter, it will probably rub everywhere and break pretty soon. but i think with a 2" hose it should be less of a problem. i'll have a play with that sometime soon. the simplest solution seems to a piece of sheet metal bolted to the tension rod like the nismo air guides, but i'm not so sure about the efficiency of those. |
06-02-2009, 11:45 AM | #1839 | |
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06-02-2009, 12:40 PM | #1841 |
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06-02-2009, 03:31 PM | #1842 | |
Zilvia Addict
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06-06-2009, 12:39 AM | #1843 |
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we finished some shit today
jim from capital auto glass in san jose made a lexan rear window for us so we ewwiwopped that then we made a sweet carbon fiber center panel that will have hella sweet switches and stuff on it still gotta sand it and clear coat it and everything |
06-07-2009, 01:45 AM | #1852 |
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Kognition made cf gauge clusters and radio delete pieces, I'm not sure anyone's done the single piece for A/C controls and radio/din pocket. Looks bomb Luke!
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06-09-2009, 11:41 PM | #1853 |
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Thanks guys. We made a gauge cluster delete panel, but it is a one off. I am still gauging interest in the ac/din panel.
Check out what BR Racing donated for our drift car. A F430 rear diffuser! It will be on the s14 soon!
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06-09-2009, 11:57 PM | #1854 |
Post Whore!
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Haha, sick! Can't wait to see what you do with it.
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Jordan Innovations has a new web site! www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com |
06-10-2009, 12:42 AM | #1857 |
Post Whore!
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It's not much to look at - turbo-back down below teh firewall, then outside the frame rail back to the exit. All wrapped in header wrap.
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Jordan Innovations has a new web site! www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com |
06-10-2009, 10:49 AM | #1860 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
also, pleaseeee make the ac/din panel, I would rather not try and make one. |
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