How-To: Fender Rolling / Fender Pulling - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

*fliprayzin240sx* · 12-04-2006, 08:42 PM

Makes it easier to do with a roller but its not necessary. Hammers, mallets, heat gun to save your paint is all you need. If you dont care bout the paint as far as your gonna paint the car anyways, pull all the stops and use a torch to heat the fender. The hotter it is, the easier it is to pull it. For people figuring out what rims to run, stop asking people. Figure out the max your willing to put under the fender well and make it work.

For reference, 18x10.5 -8 offset with -1.5 camber.

94cc0rd · 12-05-2006, 03:30 AM

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33906

+

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35776

= fender roll success???

is that hammer the best for fender rolling?

upSLIDEdown · 12-05-2006, 02:09 PM

No, I don't like those for rolling fenders. You want something solid... more like this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=6748

Weight preference is personal. Depends on how strong you are I guess. You want something with a little ass behind it so you don't have to swing it like Babe Ruth, but not so heavy you can barely swing it at all... I have an old hammer my dad actually made years ago, have no idea how much it weighs though, probably 2 or 3 lbs. Keep in mind you will want to wrap a rag around the head of the hammer, and you will have to adjust it because after a few bangs, the rag will start to become threadbare where you're hitting. I like the red shop rags. Most automotive stores will have them. They're a little more tightly woven than a terry towel, so they last a little longer in this application. Here's a pic...

http://imageserver.isnweb.com/CRD40042.jpg

Also, I have heat guns. Reason: You can't SEE the heat. With a torch, you can see where you're putting the heat and vary how close you put it to the fender a lot more accurately. It's easy to scorch paint with a torch, because you can't really tell how much heat is getting to the fender until the paint starts scorching, then it's too late. I use one of these... couldn't find one on HF's website...

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...100&lpage=none

Hope that helps.

ixfxi · 12-05-2006, 06:22 PM

Rolling fenders = rolling the inner lip under the fender. Basically, a necessity anytime you try to fit a "choice" wheel.

Pulling fenders = you have given up "caring" about your paint, because you understand that it is now history. You are basically pulling the metal out as far as possible, with risk that the upper part of the body can buckle (or make an indentation due to the degree of pulling). When you pull your fenders, you simply cannot keep the factory paint.. it will crack, no matter what. As for the buckle, the body shop will need to dolly the fender back to being straight, then use filler to smooth out the indentation.

Of course, there are various degrees to how much you pull.. but regardless, you might as well throw a nice lip on the rear, if thats what you're going for. The other fact, is that you simply cannot pull the front fenders. They are too flimsy and the most you can do, is give a light roll so that the fender-liner-tabs are more recessed.

THATS THAT. If you want wider, you'll need fenders, overfenders, custom fenders, etc.

94cc0rd · 12-09-2006, 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

Also, I have heat guns. Reason: You can't SEE the heat. With a torch, you can see where you're putting the heat and vary how close you put it to the fender a lot more accurately. It's easy to scorch paint with a torch, because you can't really tell how much heat is getting to the fender until the paint starts scorching, then it's too late. I use one of these... couldn't find one on HF's website...

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...100&lpage=none

Hope that helps.

did you mean its easy to scorch paint with a heatgun? that part of your post kinda confused me... maybe i'm just stupid... or tired... or something?

the lowes website is down right now so i couldn't see what u were trying to show me...

Chrischeezer · 12-09-2006, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

And just for reference, the wheels in the pics are 18x8.5 +25 with 225/40/18s and 18x9.5 +25 with 245/40/18s (Falken ST-115). I was also running -3.75* of camber in the rear.

Thats very flush...good Job,
i hafta do mine this spring to fit my work vs-xx

upSLIDEdown · 12-09-2006, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94cc0rd

did you mean its easy to scorch paint with a heatgun? that part of your post kinda confused me... maybe i'm just stupid... or tired... or something?

the lowes website is down right now so i couldn't see what u were trying to show me...

Try again. I just looked at it and the link worked fine for me. It's a propane pencil torch kit made by BernzOmatic for $12.89. Blue propane cylinder with a pencil torch head.

Yes, that's what I meant. It easy to scorch the paint with a heat gun because you can't see a flame like you can with a torch, so you don't know how much heat you're putting on the metal until the paint starts to scorch. With a torch, you can see where you're putting the heat because you can see the flame.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrischeezer

Thats very flush...good Job,
i hafta do mine this spring to fit my work vs-xx

Thanks man. I actually kinda miss the look of that rear setup (no pull), but oh well. I'll be much happier with my pull after body work gets done to smooth it out, I just have no idea when that will be. It's not one of my top priorities at this point.

gotta240 · 12-09-2006, 05:44 PM

Just got my damn 300 dollar eastwood roller and it was cake. SUPER SMOOTH role, and easy to do....

If anyone in socal wants to rent it for a very fair price, let me know... I wouldn't mind offsetting the price of 300 bucks, and help a zilvia member at the same time....

kuramaya · 12-19-2006, 12:34 AM

Nice writeup, I'm gonna do mine this week. Wouldnt have gotten a heat gun if not for this thread.

Rep for you!

FTMFW · 05-09-2008, 05:25 PM

nice write-up...Helps alot

Sil80Dreams · 05-09-2008, 05:42 PM

[quote=AN89HATCH;1087141]

Yo those tail lights are f*ckin sick, what are those?

ripracer · 05-09-2008, 08:19 PM

look like some altezza lights with some red candy clear, does look nice now I wish I wouldn't have tinted mine black

12-04-2006, 08:42 PM	#31
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Makes it easier to do with a roller but its not necessary. Hammers, mallets, heat gun to save your paint is all you need. If you dont care bout the paint as far as your gonna paint the car anyways, pull all the stops and use a torch to heat the fender. The hotter it is, the easier it is to pull it. For people figuring out what rims to run, stop asking people. Figure out the max your willing to put under the fender well and make it work. For reference, 18x10.5 -8 offset with -1.5 camber. __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

12-05-2006, 02:09 PM	#33
upSLIDEdown Nissanaholic! Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA.. And for those that keep PMing me asking what kit I have, it's Origin Stream. Posts: 1,728 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	No, I don't like those for rolling fenders. You want something solid... more like this... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=6748 Weight preference is personal. Depends on how strong you are I guess. You want something with a little ass behind it so you don't have to swing it like Babe Ruth, but not so heavy you can barely swing it at all... I have an old hammer my dad actually made years ago, have no idea how much it weighs though, probably 2 or 3 lbs. Keep in mind you will want to wrap a rag around the head of the hammer, and you will have to adjust it because after a few bangs, the rag will start to become threadbare where you're hitting. I like the red shop rags. Most automotive stores will have them. They're a little more tightly woven than a terry towel, so they last a little longer in this application. Here's a pic... http://imageserver.isnweb.com/CRD40042.jpg Also, I have heat guns. Reason: You can't SEE the heat. With a torch, you can see where you're putting the heat and vary how close you put it to the fender a lot more accurately. It's easy to scorch paint with a torch, because you can't really tell how much heat is getting to the fender until the paint starts scorching, then it's too late. I use one of these... couldn't find one on HF's website... http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...100&lpage=none Hope that helps. __________________

12-19-2006, 12:34 AM	#39
kuramaya Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: 沖縄 , Japan Age: 48 Posts: 1,677 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: kuramaya Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Nice writeup, I'm gonna do mine this week. Wouldnt have gotten a heat gun if not for this thread. Rep for you! __________________ ZEROYON WEBSITE IS HOMO NEW SITE: blacklinux.com/innersanctum/index.php

05-09-2008, 08:19 PM	#42
ripracer Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Orlando, FL Age: 35 Posts: 64 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	look like some altezza lights with some red candy clear, does look nice now I wish I wouldn't have tinted mine black __________________

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12-05-2006, 03:30 AM	#32
94cc0rd Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Los Angeles, CA Age: 34 Posts: 2,390 Trader Rating: (8) Rides Gallery: 94cc0rd Feedback Score: 8 reviews	http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33906 + http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35776 = fender roll success??? is that hammer the best for fender rolling?

12-05-2006, 06:22 PM	#34
ixfxi Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: bangin on my chest Account: BANNED #fucksupreme Age: 79 Posts: 5,923 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Rolling fenders = rolling the inner lip under the fender. Basically, a necessity anytime you try to fit a "choice" wheel. Pulling fenders = you have given up "caring" about your paint, because you understand that it is now history. You are basically pulling the metal out as far as possible, with risk that the upper part of the body can buckle (or make an indentation due to the degree of pulling). When you pull your fenders, you simply cannot keep the factory paint.. it will crack, no matter what. As for the buckle, the body shop will need to dolly the fender back to being straight, then use filler to smooth out the indentation. Of course, there are various degrees to how much you pull.. but regardless, you might as well throw a nice lip on the rear, if thats what you're going for. The other fact, is that you simply cannot pull the front fenders. They are too flimsy and the most you can do, is give a light roll so that the fender-liner-tabs are more recessed. THATS THAT. If you want wider, you'll need fenders, overfenders, custom fenders, etc.

12-09-2006, 05:44 PM	#38
gotta240 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: so cal Posts: 3,496 Trader Rating: (21) Feedback Score: 21 reviews	Just got my damn 300 dollar eastwood roller and it was cake. SUPER SMOOTH role, and easy to do.... If anyone in socal wants to rent it for a very fair price, let me know... I wouldn't mind offsetting the price of 300 bucks, and help a zilvia member at the same time....

05-09-2008, 05:25 PM	#40
FTMFW Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: California Posts: 307 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	nice write-up...Helps alot

05-09-2008, 05:42 PM	#41
Sil80Dreams Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Gainesville, Va Age: 32 Posts: 83 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	[quote=AN89HATCH;1087141] Yo those tail lights are f*ckin sick, what are those?