jbjslambert

it will start without the cap. The CAS is a trigger wheel for ignition timing. Good to keep things clean in there.

mdilworth114

Just swapped my s13 from a KA24DE to an SR20DET. I was wondering about exhaust systems. Can I use my KA down pipe and straight pipe?

ExplicitTuning

Just something worth adding to save a headache to whoever reads this. REMOVE the stock turbo t25 oil and water HARD lines that nissan uses stock they are so easy to strip your block with. I highly recommend going with something flexible.

hunterw

it may have been asked multiple times, ut i cant get the search function to work correctly..
my question is, will a 1 piece sr20det s13 intake manifold work on a sr20det s14 engine?

wiring specialties

Let us know if you need any help, we have direct plug and play harnesses for all SR20 motors.

S13 SR20 Engine

S14 SR20 Engine

S15 SR20 Engine

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Jibbberish

So I'm thinking about buying a car but I'm a little skeptical about the engine build. It's an s13 blacktop sr20det, and all I know is the following:
-rebuilt with 10.5:1 pistons, unsure if it has new rods.
-Stock fuel system as far as I know except walbaro performance fuel pump.
-Stock cams/valvetrain
-t25 turbo with t28 internals
-stock ecu
-apexi AFC NEO to account for atmospheric BOV.
-Greddy Profec B-spec II boost controller.
-tial 50mm BOV

He says it runs 18-20lbs, but does a t28 even make power at those boost levels? Also, if it has 10.5:1 compression ratio, is it even possible to be running on pump gas with this setup? Shouldn't it be knocking like crazy? In theory, will an sr even run properly with this setup without a standalone? I'm basically just trying to figure out if he's just BSing me about the pistons cause people who buy 240's usually eat that shit up. I kinda hope he is BSing me.

I test drove the car and it ran/drove amazing. Easily the best one I've ever driven. Stupidly, I didn't look down at the boost gauge to see what it was actually pushing so idk if it was on low boost at around 14 or high at around 20 when I drove it. The guy's owned the car since 2008 and has receipts for everything, including the swap. It was bone stock when he bought it and the parts list is legit. Everything was done at shops professionally except this recent rebuild which he said he did himself at school (he's in an engineering program at western). So kinda weird that he doesn't have receipts for the purchase of the rebuild parts, and doesn't seem to know what they are.

soundboy

99% it's stock internals. The parts list seems to be limited. Especially the turbo. The turbo might even be a t25.stock

Jibbberish

I really hope it is cause the car's immaculate and I don't want it to have a janky build. It has a lot more parts but those are the only ones that relate to the engine build unless you count full exhaust from the turbo back. I'm going up to see it again sometime this week. I just feel like if he rebuilt the engine himself he'd be able to rattle off every single detail without even thinking about it right?

I think I'm gonna pull a spark plug out and peek in to see if I can identify the piston, and do a compression test if he has a tester. Anybody know what compression test results would be consistent with 10.5:1 in an SR?

dizzariot

Anyone else in here have an S14 SR in their S13? I'm taking a long period of leave in January to sort out some things. In the meantime, any suggestions with the problems I'm having would help to point me in the right direction. I've got two issues:

1.) When I'm cruising on the highway to work I'm close to 4000RPM @ ~64MPH. My mileage is off on my cluster but I know that my car has the correct speed sensor. The previous owner told me that he didn't mess with the final drive but I'm left wondering why my RPM is so high when I'm barely keeping up with the flow of traffic.

2.) Since I've owned the car (it's been over a year now) I've experienced issues with starting the car twice. There are no common denominators and I'm pretty stumped. I'll go somewhere to run errands, come back, and the car just won't turn over. It gets power and everything comes on but the starter won't even notice I'm trying to start the fucking thing. It happened to me again today before the gym. I made a stop nearby, was in and out in 15min, and when I came back out I got nothing. I was near the gym so I locked up and walked over. Worked out for a little over an hour and came back. Everything started up like normal.

I suppose I've been putting this shit off because I know I'm leaving for Japan soon and the car is just gonna sit. I realized I'd like to straighten it out before the car goes into deep-sleep.

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Jibbberish

1.) Smaller diameter wheel/tire combo?
2.) Check them grounds. Similar thing happened in my MR2 randomly so I sanded/cleaned up the grounds and it never happened again.

dizzariot

16" with 205/45. They came with 16" from the factory so there's either something else wrong or I'm grossly underestimating the wheel/tire combo.

I figured it might be something with my grounds but I'm just putting it off until I have more time to dedicate to it.

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Jibbberish

Hmmm. Maybe the previous previous owner messed with the final drive lol.

LoSt180

You need to swap in an S13 speed sensor. They read differently. The S14 SR came with a 3.69 final drive, most swaps in the U.S. keep the 4.x FD, so the RPMs will be high at highway speeds. Do you have a gps app that can verify how fast you're going at 3,000 rpm in 5th?

ultimateirving

I been chasing a similar starting issue for a while. Completely random, and starter just clicks like it's trying to turn. This weekend I found a ground that had loads of corrosion between it and the chassis. It's right under the fuse box on the passenger side. Black wire with yellow stripe.

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dizzariot

I clocked 52MPH at 3000 RPM.

Thanks for the responses, guys. I appreciate you helping me narrow things down.

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Evilstang1987

I've got a 1997 with a 98 sr20det in it. Now here is my problem. Ran it hard one night last summer is then after that it would spit and pop whenever it gets to about 5 psi of boost. Thought I had a boost leak. Checked all piping and had no leaks. Changed out my spark plugs and it did fine until I tried to boost it had again. Pulled real hard then started spitting and popping again and will not boost past 5 psi. Order some phase 2 coil packs and changed my spark plugs again.(gapped at .25) Just went down the road and it will pull real hard as long as i roll into it and not try to hit it hard off the bat. Anybody have any suggestions?

collegekid

You might have one of those 4.625 final drives (check killer2001's fs threads as he has some) I think. I might be off on the exact number but it sounds a little too high.



My Subaru has the stock 16's with 205/55/r16 and with a 4.44 final drive (the fifth gear ratio was .7 something, slightly higher number than the .759 in the s14 tranny)

5th gear

-2000 rpm is like 43 mph

-2700 rpm is 60 mph



Speedo reads pretty accurate. Do you have those speed monitoring poles in your city? That's what I use to verify speed





Also for the starting issue, do you dump the clutch to the floor when you start it?

Mofuhcka

Having an issue with my S13 SR. Starter will not engage the flywheel fully. Has the dust plate in between trans and block, and seems to be getting full power to starter and extending fine. Any ideas?? Starter is also brand new

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lewisfk

good vacuum line diagram or routing for sr20det

trkoo

Does anyone maybe knows if will fit gt2560r turbo on my stock s14 sr20det blacktop engine, the original turbo is blown and i need a new one, i got a good offer for gt2560r and i dont know if i need bigger injectors im rebuilding engine and i dont want to spend money on injectors he said i just need to change wastegate spring for 0.5 and everything will be okay. what should i do?

LoSt180

An S14 KA oxygen sensor is an exact replacement for the S14 SR sensor. Length of wire is the same. Just some geewiz info since some of the older posts say to use a Z32 sensor, which would also work, but the wires are a lot longer.

KA on top
SR on bottom

Splintercellsz

Drove fine until yesterday. Idle surges, and bogs/power loss when driving. Also dislikes cold starting.

I've changed plugs, cleaned MAF and throttle body. Any other ideas?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Tyler_240

I picked an unfinished swap a few months back, it already had a freddy IM but came with a spare oem s13 intake. The car doesn't make enough power to need an aftermarket intake.

I have everything to re-install the oem one except for the support bracket. Is it necessary to pick one up? I don't care either way, its not about the money, I just dont want to run into issues later on.

What do you think?

Frank_Jaeger

I would reinstall it without. It's not like it's an exhaust manifold.

The only thing I like about the Greddy style manifolds is they're easy to work around / under.

Tyler_240

Thanks Frank.

One more question, anyone know of a Nissan Part # for the Brake Booster Hose for S13 Chassis to Redtop Intake Manifold?

Thank in advance,

J.torres

https://youtu.be/eORpJ_xxc_0 this is link to how my sr20det sounds, I just recently purchased it and dropped it in, did no work to it besides basic matinence. Can someone give me an idea on what this sound is and how simple it could be to fix?

zombiewolf513

That's a rod knock my friend

J.torres

Sounds like its coming from the top end of the block, possible it could be lifters in head?

zombiewolf513

Dude, if you think you know what it is why are you asking?

You already know you'll need to take it apart to find out and fix it. It's a knock. Lifters don't sound like that.

Yes it's the head, yes it's the block, yes it's the intake, yes it's the differential.
Now stop looking to be spoon fed and get to work

zenkicpe

Check voltage across TPS, sounds like its out of adjustment. Also look closely around the throttle body for leaks as well as injector orings. Good luck.