tapdeznutz

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40flash

Anybody know what happened to Dudewutup? He's dropped off the face of the earth. Phone number disconnected. Email doesn't work. Hasn't answered PM. ???? Really hope he's OK.

irax

I have him on facebook, haven't checked by in a while though

__________________
Drives a BRZ and is building a V6 S12 coupe.

irax

dudes fine

__________________
Drives a BRZ and is building a V6 S12 coupe.

dorrifto

I really wish this was posted before I did my vq swap. It would have saved me roughly $600

__________________
https://www.facebook.com/groups/ClubNIDO/
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

dorrifto

he replied to my vq thread a bit before the new year. Said he was short funds or something like that. I dont think he has given up, just trying to get back on track.

__________________
https://www.facebook.com/groups/ClubNIDO/
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

upsdude

how much does he have left to get the swap up and running?

ka-titties

edit: nevermind, my question got answered already.

Lost8lives

Megaupload.com has been Seized the FBI what is in the File and where else can i get it

Poorboy

anyone have that file he was referring to? and can anyone post it or host it somewhere?

I'm looking to do a VQ35 swap into my ODBII S14, and REALLY not trying to pay 600-1000 to have someone else do the wiring. I'm emboldened by this thread in that it can be done.


Does anyone else know how he got around the NATS system, and if it worked? The Zfever website seems to suggest that its not possible to get around it without "flashing" the ecu or something that only they are capable of. However, in his writeup he seemed to say that he had gotten around it by doing his wiring.

Has anyone attempted to do their own wiring with an ODBII vehicle?

irax

ZFever uses the Osiris UPRev software, there are a lot of shops that can do it. There might be one in your area.

And dudewhatsup just wired in the nats system. Bardabe did it on my vq swap using the maxima ecu. Its just you gotta use the dash harness and properly connect the Nats amp around the ignition cylinder. Just follow the factory wiring diagram it shouldn't be an issue at all.

__________________
Drives a BRZ and is building a V6 S12 coupe.

40flash

Other than the anti-theft issue I'm not sure why it would be an advantage to use the NATS system when the re-flash is cheaper and easier. If I'm wrong on that, fill me in.
National Speed inc. re-flashed mine and they were reasonable and great to work with. Fast and efficient. $300.
I'm with-in a few days of firing mine up.

40flash

now for the fun part -- tieing everything in
we will start off by slplicing wires from the
S14 F3 plug wires to 350Z ECU plug


I wrote the following to further clarify what DudeWhatup wrote with his permission. Hope it helps.

　
Wiring the obdii port
See FSM section EC page 620
port number
4 black wires directly to a chassis ground
5 black/white wires directly to a chassis ground
6 blue wires directly to ECU plug pin # 94
to verify see FSM section LAN page 39
7 light green wires directly to ECU plug -pin # 85
8 green/yellow to 12V switched source (hot with key on)
14 not 15 at least for 2003 Red wires directly to ECU plug pin # 86
to verify see FSM section LAN page 39 and section EC page 620.
16 red/white 12V + not switched - constant on



Powering the ECU
Port 1 (black wire) wires to chassis ground.

Port 109 (white/black wire) connect to hot side of ignition switch.
Can be wired directly to the 240SX F3 plug pin #1 black/red. The white/black wire at port 109 continues on to feed Injectors so don't cut it, just splice in the black & red wire from the F3 plug to it. Verify at FSM section EC page 138 and 1995 240SX FSM section EC page 85.


Port 111 (grey/blue wire) is a ground source for ECU relay in the passenger foot well. It wires directly to the 240sx ECU relay terminal 1 (red/black wire.) for verification see 240sx FSM section EC page 85 and 350Z FSM section EC page 171 & 138.

Port 113 (light green wire) is the ECU feed for the fuel pump relay. It splices to position 11 on the 240sx F3 plug (black/pink wire.) Verify at 240sx FSM Section EC page 201 and 350Z FSM section EC page 588.　

Port 115 (black/white wire) wires to chassis ground.

Port 116 (black/red wire) wires to chassis ground.

Port 119 & 120 Red wires to output side of ECU relay. Cut black/white wire at ECU relay plug and splice both red wires from ECU port 119 & 120
Verify this in three places: 350Z FSM section EC pages 138 & 499. Compare this with 1995 240SX FSM section EC page 85
Port 121 (red/white wire) connects to +12volt constant on.

Another issue. The 240sx obviously doesn't use fly by wire throttle and therefore does not have a throttle motor relay as the 350Z has. I had a horn relay from a 350Z lying around and used it to run the throttle motor. In retrospect, I have by-passed the clutch pedal relay. It was an alledged safety feature that wasn't on the Canadian models. If doing this swap again I would use the Clutch switch relay to power the throttle motor since it's already in the fuse box. See 350Z FSM section EC page 415 and 240sx FSM section EL page 26 (American) and page 27 (Canadian.)

One more. Dudewhatup pointed this out to me on the phone but I don't think it's in the write up anywhere. In the 350Z engine loom there is a group of white/blue wires that are joined in a small junction block not far from the ECU connector. One of the things they power is all six ignition coils. In the 350Z these wires are fed through the ECU relay. Make sure you establish a link to the 240sx relay or you will have no power to the coils. Verify at 350Z FSM section EC pages 570, 572 & 574. Don't confuse White/black (W/B) with White/Blue (W/L.) For anti-theft you could run this white/Blue wire through a hidden switch or obscure switch somewhere. The car will not run with the switch off.

Input is welcome if anyone has questions or comments as to the accuracy of my post.

Poorboy

how big is this zip file? apparently I missed the boat because megaupload is caput.

can someone email it to me? IRAX/Flash40/Dudewhatup ?

my email is [email protected]

I also would be interested to know if this would be any different for a ODBII S14 based on what wiring is involved. I can supply the FSM if need be.

For a guy like me, this is all very intimidating at first, so pictures/diagrams and clear explanations are very important. Because of the community, I think I will do my best to try to contribute when I'm doing mine by detailing it and adding photos/diagrams as much as possible.

Lost8lives

thanks to the dude 40Flash Irax and eveyone.. using this thread my 1995
240SX VQ35DE swap starts. but i still have a long way to go any help with this will be great....

ok it will run and revup and idel... then i cut it off try to start it again and the throttle motor is not working cut it off clear the MIL codes and back to normal next time same thing ???

I think it may have to do with the fact that I dont have the trottle motor (or ECU) Relay wired in (just running them both right to a hot wire) but i cant get em to work I tryed wiring em in. I put the ECU relay in and wired it to wire 111 in on the ground side of the relay but i dont think that it is supplying ground. If I ground the ECU relay wire out on the body the relay clicks tryed wiring a relay in for the throttle motor to the ground on wire 104 and same deal i can only guess that the ECU is not getting ground but I have all the ground wires that i know of grounded????




this is how i am wiring the ECU relay in. any help or suggestions please?

darkroom1428

The ecm relay is fine but i wired mine as ECM relay 1 and 3 should be going to s14 f3 plug 17. ECM relay 5 should go to ECM pin 111 and ECM relay 2 should go to ecm pin 119,120. but I'm curious did you also wire the 12v wire feeds to power the coil pack, intake valve timing, crank, and cam sensor.
The coil packs 12v wire it's the white/blue wire refer to page ec-573. The intake valve sensor 12v is also white/blue refer to page ec-402, and the cam and crank shaft sensor 12v wire is red/white refer to page ec-295,301.

ECM 119,120 wire to----white/blue wire on coil pack and intake valve timing, and red/whit crank and cam ---ECM relay 2

Hope this helps

Thanks
Lee

darkroom1428

A second 12v relay I'm using is the throttle control relay.
The throttle control relay I have wired up also using the s14 f3 plug 17 to throttle relay 1 and 3. Throttle relay 5 to ECM pin 3 and throttle relay 2 to ECM pin 104.
S14 f3 plug 17 Is also wired straight to ECM pin 121.

Poorboy

I hate to beat dead horse, but given the impending start of my swap, I just want to ask again, if anyone has the aforementioned VQ zip file, if they could PM me or send it to my email which I provided. Thanks!

40flash

If I am correct in asuming we are talking about using the stock 240sx ECU relay to power our 350z ECU then be sure to look at the 240sx FSM section EC page 85. On it I believe you will see that relay ports 2 and 5 are the ones that connect to the 12V hot wire F3 plug terminal 17, not 1 & 5 as shown in the above diagram. Number 1 goes to 111 on the ECU which appears to be the ground for the coil side of the relay. Number 3 on the relay goes to 119 & 120 which are 12v hot not grounds. When the relay is closed 119 and 120 are fed 12V directly from the fuse box and are not grounds.
Please compare 240sx FSM section ec page 85 to 350z FSM section ec page 138 to see the 350z ECU relay wiring. The 240sx and 350z ECM relays mirror each other in wiring and function. Only big difference I see is the size of the fuses that feed them. (on page 85 the feed from the battery says pin 9. It's 9 on m63 side and 17 on the F3 side of that connection.)
Check it out and let me know what you think.

darkroom1428

40flash thanks for the pm I corrected my mistake in the previous post. I was referring the white/blue wire for the coil pack and the intake timing, and the red/white wire for the crank and cam sensor as being grounds but in reality they are feed from the ECCS relay as being a 12v source from a start and on position of the key.

Thanks
Lee

Guilty1s

I'm confused on something. Original post had us wiring in the pedal just 6 wires in from the pedal to 6 wires in to the ecu straight. You 2 have mentioned a relay in there. I assume that is needed. You have any explanation how that is wired and where is goes.

Guilty1s

And this too

Attached Images

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1344106985.871622.jpg (51.0 KB, 50 views)

Lost8lives

Just 6 wires from the ECU to the pedal yes
No relay need for the pedal
Just for the throttle body motor and the ECU

Lost8lives

I fixed my throttle motor relay and ECU relay no more safe mode.thanks 40flash
And everyone on this thread

40flash

Your pedal wiring schematic is correct. This will clear up the confusion. The relay we are speaking of is not for the throttle pedal but for the throttle positon motor on the throttle body. It's called the "electric throttle control actuator" in the FSM and the relay runs it. See section EC pages 412 to 429. I think you could use the Cruise control relay that sits right next to the ECU relay in an S14.

dudewutup

sorry that ive pretty much dropped of the face of the earth guys but im back....married, a home owner, and have changed jobs so getting on the forums is a challenge. luckily for me were not talking about kids yet!

ill make a new upload tonight with 40flash's new addition included as well as the pics above.

yet again sorry ive been missing during such a crucial part of the wiring write-up but i should be back for a while.

__________________

Guess I can't call it a 240....

status

I have a VQ35 swapped into my S13 and I cannot for the life of me get the cluster working! I'm wondering if I need a Z33 cluster? Or is something just not wired up correctly?

darkroom1428

I was able to wire up a 2005 Altima 2.5l auto gauge cluster into my s14 and only using the obd port of the vq ecu. With the cluster I'm able to view my tach and coolant temp.
I only wired in 5 ground wires, 3 power wires and the 2 can L and H wires.

dorrifto

How do you have it wired in? Sorry if you have posted above. I haven't read this thread since January or whenever I last posted lol.

But I have a fully working cluster so depending on how you wired yours in, I could help you out. Pm me if you want

__________________
https://www.facebook.com/groups/ClubNIDO/
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

status

Do you have the J30 diff or something!? I was doing some reading after this and found that the 240 speed sensor is in the trans and the Z sensor is the ABS style, that there's really no other way than to get a diff with a sensor in there. I'm just using the 240 cluster and literally nothing is working. Do you guys have any info on what wire should go where!? I bought the car as a swapped "project" that barely ran. Got everything running and working, just no cluster info. I have temp/oil press/voltage gauges on my A pillar but i'd like to get rid of them. I'd also like to throw a 350z cluster in there if possible as i have one sitting in my garage that a friend gave me. I've taken the cluster off and swapped it thinking it was a bum cluster, but to no avail. HVAC is all s13 and works fine. Everything seems to work BUT the cluster. Was wondering if maybe i needed the Z cluster or something. Thanks in advanced!