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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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04-21-2011, 04:07 AM | #33 |
Nissanaholic!
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Everyone on the garage forums use the $90 Arcan costco jack. You seriously can't beat it. Napa has the exact same jack I think for $350.
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04-21-2011, 09:10 AM | #34 | |||||
Post Whore!
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Regardless of what jacks I've used over the years, I cannot escape from using a basic piece of wood to give me the extra inch or two worth of needed clearance. Quote:
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I'm surprised you people waste time with HF garbage. All of my tools are fairly high quality and I buy them used before I waste a penny of my hard earned dough or risk my life or waste my time with HF rubbish. Oh well, its your life. Quote:
Anyway, I find the aluminum jacks to be convenient and portable and reasonably well-built, which is the one I use most of the time when I need something quick and easy. I use the ranger for most common use where I want something durable. Ultimately, the wood 2x4 is needed to give that extra inch or two. |
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04-21-2011, 10:05 AM | #37 |
Post Whore!
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04-21-2011, 10:29 AM | #39 |
Leaky Injector
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Yeah, just go get a few pieces of thick MDF, and fix them together in like a step configuration.
Keep em in your trunk, and they work great to get the clearance you need. |
04-21-2011, 10:53 AM | #41 |
Post Whore!
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I had that blue jack from Harbor Freight. Worked great and didn't cost much.
I only died once because of it, so no biggie.
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04-21-2011, 10:59 AM | #42 |
The Architect.
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Hah, Brian is a zombie.
Well, it's either fork over $300+ for a super low profile jack that still wouldn't clear my front lip or build ramps that cost less than $20 to put together and keep using my Sam's Club $65 jack. Seemed like a no-brainer to me. I spent $300. lol jk. Seriously though, I would just put some ramps together. Mine are pretty long, but they're not insanely heavy and hauling them around at the track wouldn't exactly be hard compared to a heavy ass jack. My friend and I did however buy a small low profile jack to lift our cars up from the side to then use our regular jack up front on the crossmember or on the rear diff. This was before the ramps. Worked out just fine. |
04-21-2011, 11:03 AM | #43 |
Post Whore!
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I have (or had) some sweet metal ramps that worked great. I've got to look for them. They would be really nice for somebody here.
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04-21-2011, 11:56 AM | #45 |
Zilvia Junkie
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^ how far does it go under the car before it hits the side.
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04-21-2011, 03:46 PM | #46 |
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A previous room mate had one of these.
http://www.mactools.com/product/tabi...jsa200lcx.aspx It's a joy to use, It would fit under anything and the issue with the "sides" hitting was non-existent. It did however weigh like 200 pounds and cost over $400. It's an investment that i would hold off on until shop space has been commandeered. |
04-25-2011, 11:46 AM | #48 |
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I always have used some LDS ramps and then any jack works great. Maybe I should sell the LDS ramps since I don't have a car low enough to need it any more. But as said above you could make some ramps with wood for real cheap.
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04-25-2011, 11:59 AM | #49 |
Post Whore!
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Summit Racing SUM-G1020 - Summit Racing® Low-Profile Hydraulic Floor Jacks - Overview - SummitRacing.com
i have this one, it's pretty good but like knoop said, its fucking heavy as shit. Only good for home use It's not the lowest but it reaches the diff fairly easily with 17" all around. The aero in front needs to be removed to get it to the tow hook, then i lift it from the cross member once i have a good height. Fed Ex broke some part on mine when it came in the mail, and they were supposed contact me about buying it back but never did. Summit sent out a second one and since fedex never contacted me i got to keep both The really low profile ones every has should would most likely serve your purpose though, since they are long and have about 2" of clearance
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04-25-2011, 12:15 PM | #50 | |
Bandwagon.
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last time i saw them were at the shop when i picked up the stuff lol |
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04-25-2011, 12:52 PM | #52 | ||
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04-25-2011, 05:29 PM | #53 | |
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again, sarcasm what car cannot drive over a 2x4.... is beyond me. slope is completely unnecessary... isnt it? i think that people that buy those ramps just dont want to "feel ghetto" carrying around a fucking piece of WOOD. plastic = synthetic wood = natural, biodegradable think GREEN fellas |
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04-25-2011, 05:41 PM | #54 | ||
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should pinstripe your name on the side, lol This blue thing looks identical to my autozone jack, except the autozone version has 2 wheels instead of the single roller. Quote:
with a 6puck, its a little hard to feather it just enough to hop up a 2 inch lip without over doing it. I got a blue auto zone jack. And 4 jack stands. i also went to home depot and bought 1 2x6 took my saw, cut the center at a 45*angle. cut the other 2 pieces at angles about 1/3 into the length. So I have two ramps that go up 4 inches, and are 6inches wide. (2x4's dont raise your car as much, since your tire will sag around them) still need to put a hole through em with a piece of rope through that, so i can just pick em up easier. |
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04-25-2011, 07:28 PM | #55 |
Leaky Injector
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Done. My dad helped me build these back in high school with some scrap wood he had laying around. I built two more a little while later. They slipped a little so we stapled some rubber-ish mat to the underside of them. I use a giant Harbor Freight jack btw. I've had it five years. It cost $50. It's fine. It's not like I run a tire business. |
04-25-2011, 09:43 PM | #56 |
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Bought from costco for $79.99 plus tax. The way my car sits, I always have to pull-off my front bumper no matter what. I usually drive over a brick or jack the car up from the tow-hook to put logs under.
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04-25-2011, 10:46 PM | #57 | |
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04-26-2011, 08:50 AM | #60 | ||
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things like rubber matting or skateboard grip tape would help eric, i was thinking about using the ramp for front wheels.. but rear wheels + 6 puck makes a fun combination. you could always gently PUSH the car up the small ramp or just add the non-slip matting. |
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