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Old 10-10-2015, 03:39 PM   #1
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SR How to install oil catch

Can someone send me a link or provide some step by step procedure on how to install an aftermarket oil catch can for SR20DET.
Thank you
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Old 10-10-2015, 03:44 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRib47 View Post
Can someone send me a link or provide some step by step procedure on how to install an aftermarket oil catch can for SR20DET.
Thank you
One hose to the front facing T on the valve cover and the other hose to the barb on the intake tube.
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:02 PM   #3
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do you have any photos? or examples by any chance?

Thanks again in advance.
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:08 PM   #4
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:10 PM   #5
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:17 PM   #6
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THANKS!!! now i can install
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:19 PM   #7
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THANKS!!! now i can install
word son. enjoi
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:24 PM   #8
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Whew that was close
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:27 PM   #9
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This is the only recommended way for sr20det engines,

And furthermore, you must use a restrictor (even the OEM restrictor is fine) between the valvecover and turbo inlet for the pcv to generate a strong vacuum signal in the crankcase while at part throttle.

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Old 10-10-2015, 04:49 PM   #10
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Yeah, definitely don't use that install image. I dunno how i copied the link to that; it has been replaced.
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Old 10-11-2015, 07:45 AM   #11
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That moment you realize the oem rocker cover has integrated baffles to act like an oil catch tank... always priceless.
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Old 10-11-2015, 03:06 PM   #12
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The moment you realize that the baffles in the S13 suck shit and always cause oil to blow out of the t-fitting. Hence the reason people install catch cans or have someone weld them a hybrid S13/S14 valve cover.
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Old 10-11-2015, 03:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
That moment you realize the oem rocker cover has integrated baffles to act like an oil catch tank... always priceless.
^
The moment you realize you dont know wtf you talking about



Kingtalon, first time I hear about this restricter. Do you have any pics of it? Or where to buy it?
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Old 10-11-2015, 03:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Kingtalon, first time I hear about this restricter. Do you have any pics of it? Or where to buy it?
This actually kind of makes sense now that i think about it. When i first had my SR i removed the factory oil/air separator on the rear of the tee. Anytime after that when i went to the track and got on it hard, there was enough oil coming out of the valve covers that it was filling the catch can. Eventually i ran into someone and happened to mention what was going on. He told me that i should find a way to put the oil/air separator back on (can be difficult with an equal length manifold) and see what happens. I ended up picking one up off of YAJ, since i had thrown mine away, and reinstalled it. The next time i went to the track ZERO oil was found in the catch can.

I'm guessing that separator piece is the OEM restrictor???
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
This is the only recommended way for sr20det engines,

And furthermore, you must use a restrictor (even the OEM restrictor is fine) between the valvecover and turbo inlet for the pcv to generate a strong vacuum signal in the crankcase while at part throttle.

Totally off topic but what intake are you running, or is it it customs?
And how're you running your maf??
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Old 02-19-2016, 05:42 AM   #16
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The thread is already some months old, so i doubt you will get an answer. It does not look like he is running a maf though.

Which allows me to answer this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatduece View Post
^
The moment you realize you dont know wtf you talking about
Open your valve cover, see for yourself, there are baffling plates before the oil vapor pickups, which act the same as ... you got it, *working* oil catch tanks (not the ebay stuff that once vented to atmosphere just catch the water vapor that condenses during the night)
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister.E View Post
I'm guessing that separator piece is the OEM restrictor???
The oem restrictor is a brass fitting inside the hose. If, you used the oem hoses with the separator then, yes you have the restictor! The restrictor can be taken out and put into a replacement hose.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
The thread is already some months old, so i doubt you will get an answer. It does not look like he is running a maf though.

Which allows me to answer this:


Open your valve cover, see for yourself, there are baffling plates before the oil vapor pickups, which act the same as ... you got it, *working* oil catch tanks (not the ebay stuff that once vented to atmosphere just catch the water vapor that condenses during the night)
I know it has baffles, buts still not enough.
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Old 02-19-2016, 08:08 PM   #19
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Yes, there's a restrictor on the turbo inlet

U see that fitting in there? You see how small the hole in the center is? Yeah...
And yes, sr's arent the only ones that have baffles underneath their valve covers, many other engines have that too. If Im not mistaken ka have something very similar near the front covers, no? But the point is, you want to improve that. The more filtered the crankcase vapors going back into your intake without adding too much restriction, the better, no? That's why you want to choose the right catch can, not just a hollow ebay can that wont "catch" a thing, unless you're planning on modifying it.
This is what I went with:

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Old 02-20-2016, 11:32 AM   #20
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Quote:
Open your valve cover, see for yourself, there are baffling plates before the oil vapor pickups, which act the same as ... you got it, *working* oil catch tanks
Correct, ALL factory PCV systems MUST incorporate some form of oil separator, otherwise oil would quickly fill the intake manifold or other plumbing. Factory baffles are often designed for an range of operating conditions, and sometimes they are designed poorly, for example Honda S2000 engine baffles from certain years tend to "hold" oil when the car is driven on a track at high RPM, causing problems. The owners of those engines are drilling holes into their valve cover baffle to correct the issue. If at all possible we try to fix the problem with the PCV system, not cover it up. If an engine is passing oil through the OEM baffle due to a high crankcase pressure (bad piston ring or other important seal) or other non-OEM operating condition (for example, if you start taking an engine to 9,300rpm when the baffle was originally only designed for 7,200rpm worth of oil mess) then this is not as easy to correct, and so may require fabrication (welding/cutting/drilling) or a temporary fix.



Which brings me to catch cans. Catch cans are (temporary) band-aids that help us cover up problems with oil passing a factory baffle, not fix them. A catch can can also be a safety net in the event of catastrophic failure (may protect the turbo or plumbing), or a cosmetic part just for looks. Keep in mind there are two sides to an sr20det valve cover; if oil is passing the baffle on the exhaust side, it may also be passing on the intake side at the pcv valve. A catch can on the exhaust side will only catch the oil flow problem on that one side. Besides all of that, there is still a problem with the additional crankcase volume a catch-can adds to the engine. Each hose contains additional air molecules that need to be moved in order to affect a pressure drop (PCV action) therefore diminishing the action of PCV and making it less effective.
Therefore, it is best to run an engine (every engine) with MINIMAL crankcase volume (i.e. NO catch cans or other external devices which add volume to the crank case) in order to maximize the benefit of the PCV system.


Quote:
Originally Posted by feito View Post
Yes, there's a restrictor on the turbo inlet

Great pic of the restrictor, lets discuss what it does.

The PCV valve on the valve cover connects to the intake manifold where intake pressure drives PCV action during part throttle/cruise/idle. The other side of the valve cover connects to the inlet tube, which is connected through the air filter to the atmosphere. So if we remove the air filter, you now have a crankcase which is directly connected to the atmosphere. That means that for every molecule of air the PCV valve (intake manifold side) passes to the combustion chamber, it will be quickly replaced by an atmospheric molecule and the net pressure will remain atmospheric (NO pressure drop, NO pcv action). Thus, there are two major points of restriction between the intake side PCV valve and the atmosphere to solve this issue. The first one is the air filter. As the air filter becomes clogged (or simply OEM quality) there is some net drop in pressure on the turbo side of the filter. This helps lower the pressure in the inlet tube, increasing PCV action (by providing pressure below atmospheric). You might be saying, "what if my air filter is not restrictive at all? Sometimes they are very high quality" And this brings us to the existence of the second restrictor in the picture above. This fitting limits the flow of atmospheric molecules which can move into the crank case, as the PCV valve on the intake side is removing them, allowing the pressure in the crank case to drop below atmospheric until reaching equilibrium. Without this restrictor (and/or appropriate air filter) the crankcase pressure would never be driven below atmospheric, since atmospheric molecules could easily diffuse into the crankcase (if there were no restriction).

As engines change, so must their PCV systems. A PCV system is part of the oil system and therefore a top priority, it should be the highest concern. If I remove the restrictor, I need to replace it with something similar or better, such as an appropriately sized, angled venturi style fitting, which may improve PCV action during boost (where a typical restrictor may lower/limit pcv action during boost).
I also want to point out that engine oil seals, such as front main, rear main, valve cover, oil pump/pan, head gasket, are all affected by PCV action. high crank case pressures due to bad PCV valve, bad piston rings, or poorly implemented PCV plumbing, results with oil being pushed out of those seals, and if pressure climbs high enough, oil seal failure.
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Old 02-23-2016, 02:52 AM   #21
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