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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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06-08-2015, 09:34 AM | #5761 |
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Whoa! I had not checked in on this thread in quite some time.
There is a lot of excellent, motivational materials posted up. That Coyote sure is something neat! Looking good, Mr. Unisa Jecs. And of course Russell's welds are always insanely amazing quality
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06-25-2015, 03:46 PM | #5762 |
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435268684.489219.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435268702.088097.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435268742.886873.jpg Figure I add to the post my tubs I did in my coupe |
09-02-2015, 07:47 PM | #5763 |
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Depends on what tube you are looking for...I go to Vibrant for bends and Coast for straights. I do not recommend MIG welding intercooler piping. It is too thin. For just mig welding thicker aluminum I use Alcoa 4043/ 0.035" wire. I have a push pull gun though.
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09-08-2015, 05:16 PM | #5764 | |
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Quote:
Im with him on that ^^^ I use vibrant as well for aluminum and other odd ball tubing. I use Parts Shop Max for my Stainless Oval though its a better quality tube.
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“About the time we think we can make ends meet, somebody moves the ends.” ―Herbert Hoover The build http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...u-city-az.html Owner of NVS Fabrications |
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09-22-2015, 03:19 PM | #5765 |
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Not sure if this has been posted but, it's purdy! http://www.sdmfcustoms.com/ https://www.facebook.com/TeamSDMF/timeline
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S13 Vert | SR | PE1420 | 5-Speed | 15x9.5 - 0 | |
09-22-2015, 05:06 PM | #5767 |
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09-22-2015, 06:40 PM | #5768 |
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^ Looks good. Curious though, what was the reason for the work dont to the subframe? Looks like just raising the diff? Sorry. Looks dang good though.
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S14 KA NA two cylinders, 75whp limper |
09-22-2015, 07:25 PM | #5769 | |
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Quote:
If you look at the picture a little closer you will see that the mounting ears on the R230 are set out about an Inch wider and will not bolt to subframe, also the "tunnel" where the front of the rear end sits into is to shallow for the R230 to sit flush so i cut it out more and made it deeper.. If you search my Threads i did a more involved writeup/ explanation of the swap. |
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10-19-2015, 08:56 PM | #5770 |
Nissanaholic!
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hey guys. Im considering buying a budget TIG welder. It'll be my first time tig welding and I'll be learning as I go. Im pretty much set on the new Ahp alphatig 200x. I would be using it on smaller stuff such as IC and exhaust piping, repairing damaged oil pans, air ducts, welding bungs, and all the other stuff the mig can't do (mostly aluminum). But my first project, and what has pushed me to buy one, is that Im in the middle of modifying an rb25 stock intake manifold. So, the question is: Is the ahp capable of welding the stock intake manifold? According to the specs it welds up to 1/4" thick aluminum, and I know it'll be a little thicker in a few areas of the manifold. Like I said, Im using this project as an excuse to get a tig welder, so I would hate to have to take the manifold to my friend with the big tig welder anyway after I find out the machine I purchased wasn't strong enough...
this is the modification Im talking about |
10-20-2015, 09:05 AM | #5771 |
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you can do things like pre-heating, and using argon with helium added to gain the extra heat you need to make the weld. overall, you should be fine.
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11-04-2015, 09:29 AM | #5772 |
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Finally making progress on my daily, and still need to do the stitching on the gussets...But ran out of sheet metal last week...
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::WTB:: ARC S14 SR20 Titanium gradient plug cover Last edited by Jamison182; 02-06-2020 at 11:52 AM.. |
02-18-2016, 07:11 AM | #5777 |
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I'm just starting to get into fabricating myself. And my test dummy happened to be an s13 that I cut up. My original plan was going to be to ditch the body and build a full tube chassis around the suspension and drivetrain, but I was convinced to keep the lower half of the shell and the firewall to make it easier to tag. Right now my only concern is since I cut the roof before installing the main hoop, it ended up a little tall lol. After I get seats and such, I'll then decide whether or not to cut it down a bit.
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02-19-2016, 10:36 PM | #5778 |
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in the process of making a single throtle body intake manifold for my RB26, a friend is CNC'd the flage for me to bolt to the stock manifold/fuel injector part. and i will be doing the rest using my syncrowave 210 and basic tools to try and make it as neat as possible. This is basically my first real project with fab work so hopefully it will turn out all right. all i have done in the past is simple things like catch cans and exhausts. i get the velocity stacks from excessive and going to go with a Q45 TB. once its all done i'll post a few more pics of the entire setup. its a fully built RB26 with 6466 and cd009 trans in a 97 kouki. just shooting for a nice 600whp on 93 to have some fun with, no real reason to go single TB besides giving myself a project. already have DOC race exhaust manifold and i figured doing the intake on myself would be a little easier, maybe someday i will make my own turbo manifold but it scares me haha.
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02-19-2016, 10:37 PM | #5779 |
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about halfway thought with the catch can, just a simple 4' can with -12 fittings and a K&n breather, might add a -6 to the turbo intake to pull some vaccum as well |
03-13-2016, 10:12 PM | #5780 |
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where im at right now, still learning alot. things i could have done better but i still think its going to work out ok, and if it doesn't ill try it again!
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03-27-2016, 11:23 AM | #5784 |
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so for all you fab guys got a question, looking at buying a tig welder but just wanna grab something for a beginner can you guys give me and recommendations?
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04-05-2016, 11:59 AM | #5786 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Can someone help me out? I am tig welding my base plates (rear strut towers). When I get near any seams in the sheet metal, the weld pool blows up/spits onto my tungsten. The sheet metal is clean, my base plate (.090") is clean(acetone, wire wheel, flap disc). My welder specs ahp 80 amps, 3/32 e3 tungsten, #6 cup, 18-20 psi @ regulator. I am attaching ground clamp to a vise grip clamped to base plate. I can weld scrap out of the car with no issue (so I am assuming my settings/gas are fine). Thank you
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04-05-2016, 12:27 PM | #5787 |
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Its spitting gasses/material from the seam sealer boiling off. Burn the shit out of the seams with a blow torch first, then go back and clean them with a wire wheel again.
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04-05-2016, 04:39 PM | #5789 |
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Anyone have any tips for mig welding metal that is one panel bond? Talk about the most difficult to weld in my opinion. Makes me wonder if there is even a difference grinding the paint off or not. The worst looking mig welds I have done for sure.
but if anyone has any tips, would be great. Yes, grinded down to the bare metal. The panel bond is what holds the thin metal sheet on besides the pinch welds so removing it is... not an reasonable option.
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S14 KA NA two cylinders, 75whp limper |
04-08-2016, 03:01 PM | #5790 |
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I will be tackling some rust repairs that will include welding on my car soon and I was reading this thread as motivation:
http://forum.eastwood.com/showthread...ration-project One simple question I have is what do you guys use to cut such intricate pieces out of the body panels? What tools in particular? Is is a combination of cut off wheels and sawzall? Also how do you find most spot welds to drill them out? Sure some are obvious on good clean metal but when rust gets in there it get's blurry. Do you just get most then chisel the rest out? |
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