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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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08-05-2009, 10:50 PM | #125 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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FWIW... it may not be the prettiest weld, but that weld (as do all the rest) does have penetration and will hold up better than any bolt-in cage, which is all I wanted. Here's what a 'skarry' weld looks like... |
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01-22-2010, 11:45 AM | #126 |
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Trying to keep this thread alive! Here's my cage so far. Will probably add some more bars and gusseting. Either a kidney bar or another full bar to make for X door bars, although these are very easy to get in so the kidney bar may be the best choice for me.
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01-22-2010, 11:58 AM | #128 |
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I think I am going to use POR and a foam brush. SHould be able to get into some pretty tight spots. But I'm with you anyone with tips on painting it I would also love to know.
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01-22-2010, 03:32 PM | #130 |
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Not too bad, the seats and Bride rails help out a lot. I think if you have seats like my Old Recaro's you may have some troubles. With a helmet I am about 5" away from that bar.
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02-09-2010, 02:03 PM | #132 | |
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If you're welding the cage the proper way. While the cage is still sitting through the floor, you paint the tops... Then finish everything else.
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Not only to the welds look horrible, I see a crater or two (great place for failures). It also looks like the wind blew the gas away or he forgot to turn it on. (Orange-redish like dust looking stuff). No gas coverage areas are another great place for failures. deposition rates are all wacky as well. Teamsprock. I think you should do some serious practicing. Those welds look really iffy. I would be concerned. If you would like some helpful advice you can PM me. I'd be glad to help you. |
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02-09-2010, 05:38 PM | #134 |
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As far as painting the cage goes, don't use POR15. The stuff smells and will linger in the car for ages. I've been in a caged STI that was POR15'd over a year ago and it still distinctly smells like the stuff.
I used Rustoleum indoor/outdoor gloss black and a regular 1.5" brush. $4.99 for a pint and I covered my entire "6point" cage. No brush strokes, lays out very flat/smooth and looks great. Here's pics of my cage build-up: dusty...arghhh Cage finished...finished painting a few hours prior to these pics.. Cage built by Kale's Custom in Essex, VT.
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02-10-2010, 08:29 PM | #136 | |
Leaky Injector
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yeah sum of the welds do look kinda questionable just didnt wanna bash on any1 but hopefully whenever i save enough for my cage the guy does a good job welding. since ill probably be paying like 2grand if not more for it. its really hard to find a good welder cuz every1 swears up n down they r pro at it lol Last edited by jay pee; 02-17-2010 at 04:22 PM.. |
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02-17-2010, 07:29 PM | #137 |
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I'll be welding in my own cage within the next few weeks, and am really considering going a different route in the backseat of the car (That's right, backseat...). However small and cramped the backseat is, I still want to retain it, as I have a 2 year old little girl that loves to ride in daddy's car. I am going to cage the front similarly to others already here, but instead of an X bar going through the backseat passage to the trunk, I am going to attempt to send a bent one down hugging the rear window, terminating in the trunk on a rear strut tower cross bar. Has anyone seen this done, other than the padded bolt on in the previous page (hypnotiks)? Another huge issue I have with bolt-ins is I am 6'3", and have yet to find a bolt-in that's very friendly to my head room. They all sit too far forward, as mine will be a few inches further toward the rear of the car. I was an engineering major, as well as a welder, as well as an experienced caged builder (I built one in a buddy's 95 wrangler extreme-modified rock crawler). I'm confident that I can bring something new to the table here, but know it's going to take some time, and a hell of a lot of patience, as this is my daily driver. I will keep this thread updated on my progress in huge steps, and will most likely make my own thread showing the build up. Any remarks or tips from experienced fabricators are more than welcome. I have read all tips in this thread, as well as many other builds and fabs (big fan of blu808's creativity and skill).
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02-17-2010, 07:44 PM | #138 |
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^^ What your intending to do has been done before (on my car ), and I don't recommend it. Bends in the rear down tubes make the cage illegal for FD, SCCA Ect. You can definitely make a strong cage with that design though. My car came with the cage already welded in, so I'm not going to fuck with it, but with the rear bars having bends and the firewall penatration, its not legal for FD or SCCA.
Here are some pics. |
02-18-2010, 01:00 PM | #140 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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anyone know?
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02-18-2010, 01:59 PM | #141 |
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When I build my cages I double box them. where the tube goes through the top part of the box and is welded to both the bottom box plate and the top box plate.
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02-19-2010, 11:27 AM | #142 | |
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Either way, I agree with you, your cage appears to be very structurally sound and a strong design. |
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02-22-2010, 09:25 AM | #143 |
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update^? and one last question regarding the diagonal bar... Can it be bolted in, rather than welded? I figured I would use a Clevis or some form of it to bolt in the diagonal on track days, once again for the simple reason of keeping a backseat during the week.
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02-23-2010, 02:23 AM | #144 |
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well first and foremost the cage can not penetrate the fire wall and mine clearly does. Second the rules state that the cage must have rear down bars with no bends in them, regardless of the cross behind the driver. Honestly its a fine cage, but if I were to do it myself I would have gone with a more standard design. This has just a bunch of showy parts that weigh extra for no real reason. W/e it was cheap.
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02-24-2010, 09:57 AM | #149 |
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That's funny. I looked at the pic before the caption and thought you had made an entire cage out of wrappingpaper tubes and paint tape. Haha. I'll be posting up some pics of progress this weekend!
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