Kronus

Battery Voltage: 12.32V



-Five years ago a brand new starter assembly was installed.
-Now, the night before the car parked itself, I encountered the issue where turning the key did not start the car, but I had full power, the lights did not dim, and I would receive a loud click from the engine bay. Just one click, every time the key was turned to trigger the starter. I popped the hood after a few tries, checked that the battery cables were tight-they were. I got back into the car and pumped the pedal while attempting to start the car several times, and after maybe the 15th try the car started up without issue. The following day this happened again, except it never started again.
-Thinking the clutch interlock switch was the culprit, I cut the two wires going to the switch, and crimped on male & female spade connectors to bypass the switch. I checked the connection with a multimeter to ensure I had continuity.



-I checked the battery voltage (good), then short circuited the two leads on the solenoid to see if the brushes in the starter motor still function. The motor spins without issue, and does not engage to start the car. (To be expected I believe.)
-Next I checked all of the fuses for continuity. All passed.
-Then I unplugged E209, and checked to see if I was getting the proper voltage from the ignition switch; a solid 12V when the key is turned.
-The interlock relay can be heard clicking just a moment before the loud click from the solenoid. I realize this doesn’t mean it is a-ok, but it’s a good sign.
-I don’t see a way to check if the solenoid is sending the appropriate voltage to the starter motor, because I do not see a large gauge external wire for that purpose. Is it internal? (Have I missed something?)

Electrical issues really aren’t my area, but I’ve checked just about all I can think of to no avail. Any ideas? I'd rather figure this out for the benefit of learning rather before resorting to source a replacement.

NICO's board was being a cunt about image sizes, let me know if the dimensions are too small.

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Kronus

Theory, the solenoid isn't transferring the large jolt needed to start the party. I hear solenoid rebuilds are cheap.

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DataXUnknown

Try smacking the starter with something, like continuesly hit the starter (with a hammer and wrench even, just anything) as someone trys to crank it over.

The solenoid tends to get stuck in starters after awhile.

JDMRIDDAZ

ok i just had theis issue and i fixed it..
i cut out the blue relay a yr ago..and i recently had a no start issue...
the sie of the circuit that goes to the clutch interlock relacy is eating up the 12v draw to the starter..u need to cut that side of the relay and it should start

Kronus

I pulled the starter assembly out of the car, and took it to a test bench. Solenoid, starter, all check out.






I pulled the blue Interlock Relay out today, and I'll be running diagnostics on it tomorrow. Can you lend a little more info about what you cut and what it accomplished?

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mechman

This should be a simple bosch style relay. take a 9v battery, connect it to pins 85 and 86. this should actuate the relay. take an ohm meter, you should have 0-3 ohms on pins 30 and 87. Remove 9v batt, ohmmeter should read OL or INF meaning the circuit is open. repeat with ohmmeter on pins 30 and 87a results should be opposite. If so, relay is fine.

Kronus

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I didn't see this reply until later tonight.

I used small jump leads connected to the battery and an engine bay ground. After energizing the coil (1,2) to check for a click, I energized post 3 and applied a test light to post 5. The rational behind the test light is to create an actual draw as I believe the multimeter can still register a reading even if the switch isn't up to snuff.




Results, the relay checks out. I've hit a bit of a rut.

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JDMRIDDAZ

ok in the diagram...its the left side of the relay that needs to be cut off...
its simple there 2 sets of wires...the thicker ones r the starter itself and the smaller one r for clucth interlock...when i cut the blue relay out i put fuses instead so by leaving the smaller wires connected caused a feedbak that would not start or make the starter act funny like half stepping...so i removed the fuse from the smaller wires..and it werked...i was using the same diagram to fix this.....that relay is a pain in the ass..thats why i cut it out...ive got like 3 of them but i was tired of this no start ....let me kno wat happens