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Old 03-13-2012, 10:49 AM   #2401
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i got a generic 6 puck from tennessee clutch and supply. found them in a thread on nico when googling. $140 for a 6 puck kevlar/ceramic. comes with bearings, alignment tool, disk, and 1800lb pressure plate.

Maxima Clutch for sr20det?? : SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)

for $140, ill give it a shot. guys in the thread they use them with similar power ~400 and no issues. sadly though, i was stockish when i sheared the shaft, all the upgrade stuff is sitting at home...
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:37 AM   #2402
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^^^Ive had Tennessee Clutch and Supply's info saved on my hardrive for long time. I'm also considering buying one after my Competition Clutch goes out. Ive heard great reviews about that six puck and the price is great too.

I'm interested in a review
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:39 AM   #2403
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for sure. going to suck breaking in a new clutch with the 2871 on there lol.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:21 AM   #2404
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Ok, guys, the new motor has about 80 miles on it now. Car pulls hard at 14psi, gonna turn it up very soon. Should hit the dyno to see some numbers in about a week or so.

Setup:
CP 86.5mm 9:1
Eagle rods
Cosworth 1.5 HG
Sard 850's
Gt2871r 56Trim .64
Stock exhaust mani with Tial mv-s gate
Stock intake mani
ARP Main and head Studs
Tomie 256's PonCams
Mid-Mount
Z32 maf
JWT tune
Exedy Stage2 Clutch+stock flywheel
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:27 AM   #2405
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^^Awesome. Be sure to post your chart after you hit the dyno..
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:29 AM   #2406
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What does everyone do about the compressor outlet being so close to the exhaust mani. Will a silicone coupler last right there? I don't want to get a pipe welded to it, any other options.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:35 PM   #2407
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Another plus for external gate setups, clocking the turbo!
clock the compressor housing!
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:08 PM   #2408
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I clocked both, the only way it works is with the outlet angled up right by the exh mani
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:13 PM   #2409
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I personally had a 90* bend welded onto my compressor outlet due to heat ruining 2 sillicone couplers. Granted I'd say a street car wouldn't do this very fast, but on track (especially with the heat) it wasn't worth the risky anymore.
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:21 PM   #2410
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I forgot you're probably running the stock mani, right? With my stock manifold. I had the compressor housing clocked at a slightly downward angle. Just had to adjust the hot piping side, I have a 45* pipe that allows for angle and height changes. With the FullRace mani I clocked the compressor at an upward angle. I did at one point have aluminum ducting tape around the coupler for that same fear, although it wasn't that close. The ducting tape is currently off due to constant boost leak testing, and maintenance.

most recent


Couple dynos and some fun

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Last edited by cotbu; 03-18-2012 at 03:26 PM.. Reason: I kinda went crazy with that f'ing tape!
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:31 PM   #2411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim38 View Post
Since it is very hard to find pictures of anyone actually doing it, below is my installation of the .73AR T25-EWG-44 exhaust housing on a GT2871R, which allows for the use of a 44mm Tial wastegate.

Impressions:

The installation of the T25-EWG-44 did not allow enough space to mount the Tial MV-R waste gate directly on the turbo housing, so my mechanic fabricated a 90 degree elbow (like what ATP sells) to mount the Tail vertically below the brake master cylinder. He then custom fabricated a dump tube down inbetween the bell housing and firewall. Overall the installation turned out very clean. The Greddy tubular exhaust manifold with 4 coats of ceramic coating turned out fantastic. It is a very stout manifold compared to everything else I have seen.

Driving impresson? Man that waste gate dump tube is obnoxiously loud

So far I haven't been able to get an Enthalpy tune that will work on the car. It runs rich at idle (11.5-12:1 AFR), no load going through the gears 14.7:1, on boost around 13.4:1 range, which means I have to be disciplined to stay out of boost. I am installing a new Aeromotive 340lph Stealth pump tomorrow and a 60 amp relay direct to the trunk/hatch mounted Odyssey PC925 battery. It appears to be more laggy than the previous .64AR setup, but I think it is possibly because it is slightly lean and not getting enough fuel to spool to full boost in the 3.5K RPM-4K RPM range (It won’t hit full boost until 4K, which is too late). I also suspect that maybe the 1.1Bar waste gate spring is too high and I should lower it, which would let my boost controller to more of the work.

Since I have had trouble getting a ROM tune to work, I have been thinking that I will have to either go with an AEM EMS Series 2 standalone or an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro. Several pro-am drifters locally have had issues with the EMS rev lifter causing displaced rocker arms or shims, when it has never happened with a Power FC. Thus, my mechanic is currently suggesting that the Power FC is a good option. I will be doing whatever it takes to tune the car will be tuned properly, within the next week or two max.
Whoa this is AWESOME. EXACTLY what I am looking for! Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:35 PM   #2412
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yeah, stock mani. i think i will just try out the silicone coupling with some aluminum tape over it.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:58 PM   #2413
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I wrapped my 90 deg coupler with the adhesive reflective shit. Then safety wired the top/mid/bottom since the adhesive becomes loose with the heat. This was on a track/DD car. Held up fine for a year.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:28 PM   #2414
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I am sure that the heat shield would work for the coupler without issue, in my situation having the aluminum piece welded to my manifold was cheaper and failproof.

With that considered though the first 1 lasted almost 2 years and the second one thesame time. However at the cost of them i figured.eliminate a failure and save money.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:30 PM   #2415
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my car is my dd, so ill probably do the aluminum tape thing and just order another housing to have it welded later. i dont like my car being down for more than a few hours.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:14 PM   #2416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
I'd say those results are probably due to the housing more than anything, and obviously safer timing charts from Enthalpy. there is no doubt more aggressive tuning can get it to light, but lets also not forget that torque onset is what chucks rods out of blocks too.

The difference in .64 housing cars to .86 is night and day...and I can see the ATP housing being similar.
So since the Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44 .72 A/R is roughly in between the .64 and .86 it should be a bit more responsive than the .86 and the stock exhaust manifold with an external wg will be more responsive than the Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44, correct?
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:59 AM   #2417
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The special housing flows like a T3, so it should be less responsive

ATP:
Special turbine housing, T25-EWG-44, T25 inlet flanged, GT28 style 5-bolt outlet. External gated (44mm flanged), flows like a full T3. Available for GT28RS/71R/76R, full size 60mm GT3071R/GT3076R/GT3082R turbine wheel and Stage III (76 trim) turbine wheel. Allows full T3 flow but on T25 flanged manifold. Only available in .72 A/R. .72 A/R is built to GT30 geometry so this A/R is comparable to one that is right in between a .63 and .82 A/R GT30R housing.
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:10 AM   #2418
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hello huffandpuff00 et. al

I am in Vietnam today, China tomorrow and then Hong Kong, returning to the states on Friday. I will very soon be getting the tune dialed in for my GT2871R .73AR T25-EWG-44 setup, and will post results.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:28 AM   #2419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usdm180sx View Post
So since the Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44 .72 A/R is roughly in between the .64 and .86 it should be a bit more responsive than the .86 and the stock exhaust manifold with an external wg will be more responsive than the Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44, correct?
As HuffandPuff described, it will probably be more along the lines of the .86 housing in terms of response, more than anything.

In pure response, the Stock Manifold (with or without external gate) and .64 is the cat's meow in regard to seat of pants grunt/response.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:49 AM   #2420
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Any thoughts on the PBM Cobra Flex downpipe may affect flow?
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:08 AM   #2421
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Quote:
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Any thoughts on the PBM Cobra Flex downpipe may affect flow?
Other than it being a PITA to install, I don't see any major issues.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:12 AM   #2422
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why is it a pain to install? ive been thinking about getting one because my downpipe scrapes on speedbumps and stuff. have isis elbow and megan downpipe. i dont really have issues removing both at the same time though.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:20 AM   #2423
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Its all one piece sooo you will have to snake it up there *pun intended* tighten all the bolts and everything....

Depends if it is a new build where exhaust is apart and stuff,or just replacing the elbow. Its a long piece
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:06 PM   #2424
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RHD chassis here so less clutter to mess with.


Thanks.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:53 PM   #2425
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Quote:
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why is it a pain to install? ive been thinking about getting one because my downpipe scrapes on speedbumps and stuff. have isis elbow and megan downpipe. i dont really have issues removing both at the same time though.
If you're ok with removing both at the same time, then it shoudln't be an issue. I know with my setup (Greddy o2 housing, and a Modified Megan Downpipe w/flex) that I would hate having to get to all 5 little bolts in car, especially with stuff in the way. You can't beat the easy to access 3 bolt flange, and the 2 bolt below.

The low profile is nice, but I'd sooner have my megan one modified to fit better, as it's cheaper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
Its all one piece sooo you will have to snake it up there *pun intended* tighten all the bolts and everything....

Depends if it is a new build where exhaust is apart and stuff,or just replacing the elbow. Its a long piece
I know the traditional style obviously allows another 'failure point' sort to speak (one more connection) but again, I like the 3 bolt setup...much easier to access.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Conrad 2NR View Post
RHD chassis here so less clutter to mess with.
Thanks.
It's not so much the clutter aspect, it's just getting to all of the nuts on the turbine housing itself.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:59 PM   #2426
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gotcha. im really anxious to get back to working on my car. my friend works at a hyundai dealership so its there on the lift, but the big wigs are in there monday morning so i have to wait until they leave. all i have left is to put the turbo, manifold, and connect the exhaust, drop in my one piece driveshaft, then put in my AC compressor and heater hoses and im done.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:00 PM   #2427
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What about the Isis " true 3 inch " turb outlet?

The reason I'm asking so much is I'm basically re-doing my setup and acquiring new parts. Would rather be a PITA and get things right the first time than assume too much. Thinking too much about a relatively simple piece?
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:07 PM   #2428
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i have that one, its a solid piece, comparable to my megan downpipe, but its double welded. had it for a year now and its still holding up strong, fitment was good, but as with any exhaust components, i would recommend buying studs and nuts from a reputable place and not using the ones that come with the unit.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:08 PM   #2429
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The pbm isn't that hard to mess with. I have never had an issue putting mine on or pulling it off.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:10 AM   #2430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim38 View Post
hello huffandpuff00 et. al

I am in Vietnam today, China tomorrow and then Hong Kong, returning to the states on Friday. I will very soon be getting the tune dialed in for my GT2871R .73AR T25-EWG-44 setup, and will post results.
Oh good, I want to see your results with the 2871... im gong to be switching over to the same housing with my 28RS and want to see if we have much different spool times and what i can put down with my new AEM EMS. You still having jason or john tune it?

AS for the cobra, I dont think it was that hard to fish the elbow up between the steering and tranny. If you have the money the cobra is a great investment. Only 1 piece and the flex pipe is in the right place so it doest drag over speed bumps like other shitty downpipes w/ integrated flex. If your EWG like i am the dual chamber/ divider is kinda pointless and maybe restrictive tho!
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