g6civcx

I don't understand.

If you're not only braking or only accelerating, what else are you doing while braking or accelerating?

SHIFT_*grind*

Yeah, that all makes sense. Good tires and pads first, then worry about a real upgrade if you need it.

This is what makes no sense. You can SAY IT AGAIN all damn day and it's still wrong. In my reality, I let go of the gas pedal before I step on the brake, are you doing things differently?

When you put the clutch in, or put the car in neutral? No longer accelerating. When you let off the gas? No longer accelerating. Maybe the transmission in your hypothetical "high hp automatic" vehicle is different - although I'm pretty sure the OP isn't talking about a purpose-built drag car - but even then, I would think you could still put the damn thing in neutral and then....guess what? No longer accelerating.

See, that's how transmissions work. If they're not engaged, then there is NO power transmitted to the wheels. None. How can you even argue?

__________________
1993 SR 'Vert

My seller review thread

sandbagger

Definitely start with a good set of tires! Since you mentioned dual duty use, and if you don't want to purchase a second set of rims/tires for track use, stick around 240-320 UTQG with a AA-A rating tire. Any lower and you trade traction for treadlife and the exact opposite if you go higher.

For brakes, since you mentioned dual duty use; I would go straight to a caliper and rotor upgrade unless you are limited by rules such as in autocrossing (sts class). Where your only option is to upgrades pads, lines and fluid. Yes, you can improve on the stock system. But with hard driving (track use) you will be overheating the system in no time, due to the small rotor diameter.

Regarding shocks, springs and coilovers. It really boils down to budget and the features you want. As far as recommending a company to buy from, I will tell you this, stick with the big name companies / manufacturers. There is a reason they are still around after several years.

I know some of you are ready to flame me on this, but regardless of origin USA, Germany, Japan, China; All manufacturers have had their issues regarding consistency, reliability, quality, etc. I have used the following companies on my own cars Bilstein, Koni, KYB, Tokico, TEIN, KW, JIC and they all fit a certain need. Now does it match your needs is the question...

Things to consider when purchasing a kit: What features do you need / want. Are they rebuildable? Are they local? How is the customer service? Mono-tube vs. Twin tube. Can they be revalved? Can you make stroke changes? Are they short stroke vs stock stroke?

Getting to bushings and bearings, I would STAY AWAY from heim joints and spherical bearings on anything other than a TRACK ONLY VEHICLE. The reason being is that even the best sphericals and heim, with teflon injection only last about 1500 miles. Once they wear you will have noise/clunking issues; not to mention inconsistent handling if extremely worn out.

Now polyurethane, delrin and other materials are great for street cars because they increase response and flex less than stock rubber bushings. However they have been known to squeak if not properly lubed. They can also bind, although much of this can be corrected with a little work by reaming holes and using a lathe to ensure trueness. Another option would be the Nismo bushings which are a harder durometer rubber.

For me, I would want 4 piston calipers, 13 inch rotors(maybe slotted, but I prefer full face), a double adjustable mono-tube coilover, and poly or delrin bushings all around with bumpsteer and roll center correction; not to mention camber, caster and toe adjustments. But this is becasue I have participated in autocrossing, drifting and road racing events for the past 10 years; not to mention I drive to the events and still enjoy driving on the street.

I will forever be a tuner!!! For me it's not a fad or phase. I am one of the fortune few that is able to combine my hobby with my work and although it's been tough, I don't regret my choice.

Hope this helps...

sandbagger

I agree with alkemyst, sometimes you are doing multiple things at once. Maybe you need to left foot brake to hit the apex or coax the rear end around. Maybe your partially engaging the clutch to change the vehicle dynamics or attitude in a corner.

When you reach a certain point, you do what it takes to hit your marks; regardless of what type of event your at. That's why it's called driver skill. Something anyone can gain with seat time and a little instruction.

The main point is to have fun, learn and improve. That's it.

g6civcx

I hear you about left foot braking, trailbraking, clutch play, mid corner adjustments, all that stuff. Even when you're in the braking zone you're also changing gear and working the throttle and clutch at the same time.

But the vast majority of your braking is done from the brake marker to the corner entry. Any braking done after that should be just minor adjustments.

I don't understand what engine power has to do with brakes other than the fact that you can achieve higher speeds within the same section of road, and you have to brake sooner.

As far as using engine braking, that's a different subject, or is it?