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Old 03-30-2009, 06:54 AM   #31
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is your coilpack harness grounded to the back of the head?
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:04 AM   #32
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Do Cel codes still work on the Enthalpy Tuned ECU's?

Sounds like the CAS is bad, try swapping it with a known good one
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:13 AM   #33
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Do Cel codes still work on the Enthalpy Tuned ECU's?

Sounds like the CAS is bad, try swapping it with a known good one
they do for me.
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:39 AM   #34
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I haven't checked compression yet, but with the BC springs on the valves it's a real bitch to turn over with a wrench without removing the spark plugs, so I know it's got compression. I'll run the test on it tonight, I've got no doubt that it's got compression though, and plenty of it.

I tried opening the throttle a little bit while starting it and it didn't start, so I guess that rules out the IACV. And when I tested the ignitor from a friend I also borrowed his coilpack harness, so both of those have been ruled out. I'll post compression after I test tonight.
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:47 AM   #35
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Besides for the obvious did you happen to clean you're plugs after the first initial start up? When i swapped my motor out i had the same problem happen to me and i cleaned my plugs and it fired right up. Might not be ur problem but just something to shoot for if you haven't already tried it.
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:03 AM   #36
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They were brand new plugs originally, and I keep cleaning them every time I pull them out. They're covered in blackened fuel when I pull them out.
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:20 AM   #37
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When you swapped out the ignitor and harness did you check to see if you had the same firing symptoms? You're spark isn't keeping up with the fuel. swap in stock injectors see if it will fire with less fuel.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:09 AM   #38
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Tried that too. No go. I swapped the battery and am now getting constant spark when I test, so it's just problem after problem. Currently constant spark plenty of fuel, doesn't come any closer to starting when the stock 370cc injectors are in that when the 740cc injectors are in.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:11 PM   #39
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Oh and yes, the coilpack harness is ground to the back side of the head. It was a pain in the arse to remove the ground to test the second coilpack harness because of the bolt location. I not only tested the coilpack harness by installing it and testing, I also used a multimeter and figured out there were no issues with it.
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:05 PM   #40
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Let me phrase another way to see if I can get some more ideas. Assuming a car is running name the sensors that would prevent it from starting again once you shut it off. TPS, MAFS, IACV (if it completely died), CAS? Any others? Cause I'm thinking coolant sensor, oil pressure, O2, knock, and any others shouldn't keep it from starting, maybe from running well, but it should still start.

I haven't looked at the TPS so maybe I'll see if I can figure out how to test it to be able to see if that's causing the issue since I've ruled out the other 3.
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:54 PM   #41
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well tps could be it since you're getting fuel and spark. so now it has to be an air problem. so i guess take off the intake mani and tb clean everything up just take off upper mani though. and also clean the iacv up real good.
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:55 PM   #42
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and cas would also not let it start but usually that deals with the spark side i'm pretty sure.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:02 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesileighty View Post
I haven't checked compression yet, but with the BC springs on the valves it's a real bitch to turn over with a wrench without removing the spark plugs, so I know it's got compression. I'll run the test on it tonight, I've got no doubt that it's got compression though, and plenty of it.

I tried opening the throttle a little bit while starting it and it didn't start, so I guess that rules out the IACV. And when I tested the ignitor from a friend I also borrowed his coilpack harness, so both of those have been ruled out. I'll post compression after I test tonight.

Check your compression.
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:53 PM   #44
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alrighty... pulled the fuel rail and pressurized it without it being mounted, placed plastic bags over the ends of the injectors. Then turned the motor over, each injector was shooting fuel so everything is good there.

I have no idea what compression should be on a brand new rebuild before the rings have had a chance to seat (it's not started once since rebuild). Then the BC 264/264 cams have overlap so that drops the compression numbers some more. Then I have the 1.01mm headgasket too so down the number goes a little more. But I'm 110psi across the board. I'm doubtful that it should be higher seeing as the rings haven't had a chance to seat and the above info. I poured a little oil in #1 and tested again to get a better seal and I'm at 130psi

Almost forgot to mention I live in Denver, so at this altitude I'll never get 150psi. The air is too thin for sea level compression.

The ECU is throwing the 55 code (nothing wrong). I tested all the sensors with a multimeter and everything seems right except the O2 sensor, and I don't know what it should be, but voltage seemed really low compared to the other sensors. But the CAS, TPS, MAFS, and coolant sensors are all in the ranges they should be. And an O2 sensor shouldn't keep it from starting.

Last edited by whitesileighty; 03-31-2009 at 09:06 AM..
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:53 PM   #45
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replace your coil pack harness and maybe your coil packs.

your not getting spark.
your not getting spark.
your not getting spark.

well at least the right amount of spark..

your saying its not starting and your plugs are soaked with unburnt fuel. thats a coilpack/spark issue

borrow those from a friend and test it.

its not compression.
its not the ecu
its not timing if your as right as you think

check out the sparkplug/ignitor/coilpack/coilpack harness/coilpack ground
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:35 AM   #46
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Stab in the dark...but is your fuel line in properly? As in you didnt crossed them? Check that (best way to remember it, line from the fuel filter NOT to the regular), then id say check the compression to make sure it wasnt the rebuild.
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:08 AM   #47
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Quote:
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its not timing if your as right as you think
Heh, I did post pics and no one else has told me I'm off there either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yokotavia View Post
check out the sparkplug/ignitor/coilpack/coilpack harness/coilpack ground
Already tested the plugs/ignitor/coilpack harness/coilpack ground. I guess I'll borrow someone's coilpacks, but I am pretty sure this is a larger issue. Once I replaced the battery, I have constant spark now.

Quote:
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Stab in the dark...but is your fuel line in properly? As in you didnt crossed them? Check that (best way to remember it, line from the fuel filter NOT to the regular), then id say check the compression to make sure it wasnt the rebuild.
Yes, fuel lines are correct.
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:54 PM   #48
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basically all that's left is the ECU, CAS, and wiring in between.
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Old 04-26-2009, 11:32 PM   #49
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Any progress? Did you ever figure out the problem whitesileighty?
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:06 PM   #50
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I had to look up this post because a friend wanted to know my pre-starting compression numbers for troubleshooting his car.

Just to update the problem was that the exhaust cam snapped in 3 pieces before it ever started. Apparently it was damaged in shipping or something. When I installed I was staring at the shop manual torquing everything to spec in order so I know I didn't screw it up. Once I threw stock cams in it started right up.
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