2fly2die

legit as fuck

0wn3r

you've come into a thread on a forum specifically made to discuss cars and what people do with them...and you say that you don't care about what people do with their cars or money? Not only that, but you tell him to get a life. Meanwhile you apparently lack even more of a life supposedly than the OP has since you took the time to come in here and respond. You have contributed nothing useful at all to this thread besides letting everyone know that your future posts will probably be useless too.

I listed my mods out in the thread already and +1.

what does this even mean?

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97 240sx se

bm3r

True everyone eventually wants to go lower. Ill pass on the SS and look into the stance, kw, tanabe, etc thanks for the info


I saw your mods on page 2. I didnt see your exhaust setup. Do you have a 3": turbo out let, test pipe, down pipe and exhaust?

Some people are so immature. I dont even know why they post.

nice_tan

If you are looking for new suspensions. I am getting my R3 STD Coilovers soon. They are called Standard. Ignore the initials haha Hit me up if your interested in them. They are really known in Canada, Euro, and Asia. i got a new number. so just e-mail me [email protected]

http://www.std.com.tw

http://www.std.com.tw/productshowroo...t02_pic003.jpg

0wn3r

Oh I didn't mention exhaust in here? Anyways, I have 3" all the way back. No test pipe, but the hi-flow catco. Circuit Sports catback, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it. I mean, it sounds pretty nice, but the quality isn't really there. It's more expensive, but maybe try the NICO BRM exhaust if they still have it. (I was purposely keeping the st0ck look, of course there are many other single tip exhausts out there that are probably better)

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97 240sx se

clark

landins13...i don't know why you think lmgt4s are worth 4k...

fyi, don't go too crazy on the engine...it won't be that much fun if you dont' have the suspension...

if i were you, i'd keep the sr as stock as possible, but freshen it up a bit, but get yourself the right suspension pieces, chassis stiffening/bracing, brakes, and LSD.

bm3r

I might go with a koni/eibach pro kit set up, not sure yet. I want a comfortable ride, and dont really care for how low it will go. If I do get coilovers it may be the KW 3's

Ive heard good things about the BRM exhaust. I might go with the 3" exhaust with the dual tips and 18" resonator to keep it quiet with a 3" test pipe.

I will most likely do that

bm3r

What do you guys recommend for a manual boost controller and boost gauge? what do you think of world electronics?

Would you recommend running a stock SMIC over a Front mount with the mods I listed to save $$?

Also, is the Apexi short ram power intake worth it for the money in hp gains if any?

S14_Kouki

Idea. Save the 6k then save more and buy a hks tranny and build around that

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http://www.fabthis.com

http://www.childhoodproductions.com/dbfab/store.html

0wn3r

I've seen alot of people recommend Hallman MBCs...so I got the Pro Rx or whatever it's called. I'm not sure what's causing my slight spike though. When I boost it'll jump to 17psi real real quick then down to 15.

Ummm I guess you could use stock side mount, but maybe put in a temp gauge before you drive it to make sure you're not running too hot..

I can't really recommend a good "set" of gauges. There's some I find real cheap, then some I find real expensive...and the ones in the middle i just nit-pick on.

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97 240sx se

Norrek4040

LS1 w/Tranny =$3500
and the rest for installation!

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bm3r

Made a few adjustments to cut cost for now, what do you think?

jr_ss

The stock SMIC should be discarded with any mod. They heatsoak and are not very efficient up to and around 250whp. I'd recommend an FMIC.

If you go with the KW V3's you'll love them. Mine are amazing and very comfortable. I haven't even adjusted the rebound/compression at all yet and love them. They go low, but not scraping the ground low, which is good for what I plan on using the car for.

The 3 gauges I would run, boost/oil psi/coolant. If you need/want it an EGT or Wideband, but not necessary on a relatively stock swap.

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My SR20VET

Dazzla

I'd do some suspension work first, then swap in a blacktop SR, and just keep it stock if you want a reliable DD.

Red Dragon3

I am kind of on the same boat as you. Just bought a chassis for $1200 and currently doing a swap.
Honestly $6000 budget is not much. Things will start adding up quickly. Trust me! I have currently spent over $4700 in parts (including chassis) and yet the car is not running. I will probably spend over $5500 to get the car running.
If you want a "reliable daily driver" then a motor swap is not for you. Cause "reliable" and "motor swap" dont go hand in hand. Things will break and you will have to fix it. If you want a "reliable daily drive" buy a newer car. Plain and simple.
However if you want to have a decent fast daily driver then do the sr20 motor swap. IMHO dont turbo the stock motor. A motor that is design for boost will last longer that a turbo motor that was design for n/a. Also other people are telling you to outrageous V8 swaps, dont listen to them. Cause if you dont have great mechanical skills and be able to fabricate your own parts then, its going to cost alot more money and time to do the swap.
I would also suggest doing the labor by your self with a help of a couple friends. Especially if your doing a swap, cause if it breaks, you know how to fix it. If your not doing the swap, then a motor swap is not for you. Just dont do it. Do some research and do the labor your self.

Your parts list
1. S14 SR20det Black Top with VTC - Yes highly recommend it, if you want more power!
2. Labor - Do it your self! or your budget on parts will be $3000 instead of $6K
3. Stock S14 Radiator - you can get a megan al 3 row on ebay for cheap
4. A/C to work - AC who cares!
5. P/S to work - You will need powersteering pump lines from DOHC ka24
6. Short Ram Intake OR Stock intake - Just get a good quality new air filter (short ram)
7. Auto to Manual swap and Parts
8. Boost gauge-What brand? - You dont need one for now, until you decide to up the boost. Get the motor to run first before buying one. Prosport makes a good gauge if your on a budget
9. Manual Boost Controller-What brand? - You dont need one yet. Get the motor to run first before you buy one.
10. HKS SS BOV-What difference would it make if I "recirculated" the stock BOV vs. getting an HKS? Will the stock BOV make a sound? Will the stock BOV work perfectly, what are the pros and cons? - IMO recirculate the bov. It will make the car run better. But stick with the stock bov with stock smic and get the motor to run first before buying one.
11. Motul Fluids - Motul is great but buy cheaper stuff first, to make sure your car is in good running condition before buying motul. You dont want to waste good fluids cause of a small leak.
12. New belts, hoses, heater hoses - you will need 3 belts, heater hoses and rad hoses.
13. 3" Exhaust - buy used or ebay
14. 3" Turbo elbow - buy used or ebay
15. 3" DP - buy used or ebay
16. 3" Test Pipe - buy used or ebay
17. Walbro 255 Fuel Pump - Recommend a new walbro pump.
18. Stock S14 Clutch - dont bother with stock clutch. go aftermarket stage 2 or 3. Spec clutch is good if your on a budget. You will need to machine your flywheel.
19. FMIC-Would you recommend the stock side mount intercooler? would the stock smic function properly? - Use the stock smic, just to get the motor to run first before buying one. Definetly recommend getting some sort of after market intercooler.

Some other parts you may need if you do a motor swap.
full gasket set
radiator fans - alot better than clutch fan
battery relocation or mini battery
oem 300zx fuel filter
spark plugs
water pump
thermostat
brake pads, lines
clutch line

For suspension work. Get some decent set of coilovers, dont cheap out on cheap megan ones. I am going with power by max coilovers cause i am drifting. Get one that suits your needs. Then get a suspension arm package. If your planing to just daily drive it then, dont spend tones of money on suspension parts, no need to buy spl parts.

Get your self some decent rims and tires. no point in modifying a car when you can't put the power down.

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08 Mitsubishi Evo X MR
89 Nissan 240SX

0wn3r

your BOV will still make a sound even if you recirc, but it's not the same as without recirc though. you don't want it to be loud anyways. trust me, RECIRCULATE the damn thing.

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97 240sx se

Max_PSi

I'm surprised no one has mentioned sticking with the KA. Its an automagic, so its prolly seen a lot less abuse then a manual car. I think you can keep closer to your budget if you go this way.

Swap in a 5-speed----can be found at junkyard or in the classifieds here
Injectors----S15 injectors, good to 300whp
New mani, scource out a good used T28----You can usually find one on here, or get a new S15 turbo maybe
Stand-alone ECU-----AEM, Nistune
FMIC----already mentioned Greddy setup.



Prolly missing some parts but you get the idea. I think this would be total-wise a cheaper way to go with parts