GT/?

I'm new here, I hope I'm not posting in a wrong place.

Who's tracking his car with an RB25, any heat issues with these engines? How's the reliability? I hear the tranny is a solid piece I don't have to worry about, and a healthy engine can handle around 400whp, no? I've been reading a lot the past week and have a lot of research ahead of me, just wondering if it is possible to track them with 550+whp?

I track my mustang gt '11, so 400whp second car isn't worth it. I can make up to 500whp with these 5.0 engines, so I need to own something scary lol. Owning a built rb25 motor in a 240 will be double(or more) the price of that NA build (+set of wheels, brakes, paint, tuning, suspension... basically a lot)

So how good of a track car is it? I've seen one with an SR20det at the track and it was really fast straight/corners, but he had heat issues, never saw that guy again

Croustibat

Zilvia "database error" ate my answer and i dont feel like writing it again, so here is the short version:

RB25 makes S13/14 quite nose heavy, and if you think an SR S13/14 has heat management issue, this is a whole other level. I cant see an SR overheat unless it is poorly mapped and/or something went wrong.

You are in V8 land, so slap an LS7 in it if you want power. Lighter, better weight distribution, no need to rebuild the engine, nothing to worry about reliability, cheap usage.

If you are not satisfied with that kind of power, you alway can add a couple turbos on that. I think it still will be more reliable than an rb25.

One of the hardest thing to do when swapping an rb is sourcing a good condition one, with the good crank, otherwise you are in for quite some work.

Slide~or~die

Dont Buy and RB! Plain and simple. Its a Shit motor.

Buy something nice, 1/2jz, LS.

drifterjoey

I DD my RB for 2 years while competing in Drifting. Only down sides are getting in with the door bars and the thought of some one hitting me and totaling it on the street. If you build it right starting at getting a good motor its extreamly reliable.

Say what you want but my RB made every event for the last 2 years with out repairs between events. Once again if you do it right you will have no problems. Entering season 3 this year on the same RB motor, how many people can say that??

GT/?

can you give me more details on the car? (mods, mileage on the engine, power, etc) Can you tell me where did you get it from, it seems that every time I found someone that sells them I find horror stories somewhere.

drifterjoey

I got the swap from JDM VTEC in canada. It came with a test drive video and 33,000k on the car. It is a series 2 RB20DET. It has 660cc injectors, Godspeed kkr430 turbo, huge same side intercooler, Nistune Ecu. It is pushing 16psi and dyno numbers of 400hp and 396 toque on race gas. Top 16 xdc Texas. Next upgrade arrived for christmas, new Godspeed intake manifold and intercooler. This is such a fun ass car and really reliable.

fliprayzin240sx

Eh, so far I'm happy with mine. But definitely true on the nose heavy part. Nothing a stiffer spring rate/better suspension can't fix. I ended up going with new 11kg spring setup FA 500s and made the car feel more neutral. Power wise, you can push RB25s to 600hp on stock bottom end. I'd go HX30 top mounted with supporting mods/tune and should be good enough to get him there. Crank snout/oil pump issue and ringlands cracking are the downside of the engine.

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PrimeDirective

If you make room for the clutch fan you should have no heat issues.

omgRWDgoodness!

Going on two years with mine and it still isn't running right. Someone shoot me.


RB26 is next up, hopefully...after I get tired of trying to figuring this one out.

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godzillarb

Over heating can be solved by notching the radiator support so that twin 12" pullers with a shroud can be used. I also run a nismo thermostat. My car rarely sees over 180f.

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HKSalex

depends on what series your going to compete in.. that's if you are though..

if you just want a weekend track car.. something with replaceable parts would be much better... KA-T.. SR20.. VQ.. and the bandwagon engine LSx...

using a LSX is great.. for drifting u can bang the limiter all day and not give a shit lol...

as far as using the RB20/5/6/30 it would make great for a TIME ATTACK car... if u had shit ton of money to throw around.. it being nose heavy is something that can be made up for... i actually like a lil nose heavy plus having more torque out of a corner is nice..

GT/?

Haha that's why I always copy what I write when it's long.
I've seen a lot of guys say the extra weight is from the tranny and won't be very noticeable. I see some agree with you over here.
I was planing on changing the bottom end anyway.

What kind of power are you making at the moment?
I've seen the complaints about bad oil pumps and starvation when making over 1Gs, did you have any experience with that?

From my reading in the RB FAQ, I'm not %100 sure, but there is room with the syko mounts on the S14.

What kind of problems are you facing?

What kind of power are putting down?

Why time attack, not gonna hold up for long sessions?

PrimeDirective

I have Syko mounts. The clutch fan will fit without cutting the radiator support if you use a stock S14 radiator and mount the fan on the back of the fan clutch.

All of the aftermarket radiators add rows and are too thick with out cutting the radiator support. I wish Koyo made an OEM replacement copper core for the KA.

godzillarb

Never been on a dyno with my current setup. Stock long block RB25, twin scroll t4 manifold, 4" dp, HX52 (67mm turbo) at 19psi, 800cc injectors, etc. Power wise, I'm guessing close to 500whp. A buddy of mine made 480whp at 17psi with a similar turbo.

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HKSalex

why time attack.. makes easier power.... great mid - high end torque.. while hitting almost 9k rpm... engine response on a RB is insane if done up properly..

ov course u can go with a 2J and 1J.. but lets say you did decide to compete in time attack.. for instance GTA.. this allows you to compete because you use a engine from another car.. but from the same manufacture

i wouldn't DD / track a RB engine.. at all due to insanely expensive.. replacement parts..

fliprayzin240sx

Here's a good read on the oiling issue with RB engines.

The SkyLife - Modified and Exotic Car News Community, Tutorials, Build Stories and How To guides.: Nissan Skyline GTR Oil Pump problems

I have the snout issue, but I just said fuck it and slapped a new N1 oil pump.


As far as temp, I'm not running AC, using a Nismo thermostat, some no name Ebay Aluminum rad, Dual FAL fans that I'm using as pushers and a PBM Swirl pot. No issue at the track or daily with the fans on. Car would get hot on the track but not till after running it hard for a while. I'd kick the fans on, chill for a few minutes to get it back down and would sit about 76*.

Still running a stock turbo setup so putting down maybe 210 on stock boost. I got a old IHI turbo kit to put in that should get me close to 400 and be happy with it.

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JDMtyte527

Honestly an ls swap is more than perfect for the track. You can make easy reliable power, low end torque and it maybe a bandwagon swap but people are doing it for a reason. Weight isn't to far off a ka.

ShadowDrifter

okay first off people need to get off the LS bandwagon. First off its the same price swap for swap for an ls or rb26dett. Go price out everything. okay with that being said it depends on what you wanna do witht he car. Then go from there im doing a 26 swap with a 50/50 weight basis so if you want some pointers let me know

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JDMtyte527

Actually you can get a crate engine LS for the same price typically as a used RB. Sometimes the crate LS is more expensive but its also a brand new fully dressed motor with 0 miles. So a used one will be significantly cheaper. Out of the box you already make twice the power of a RB and TQ.

drifterjoey

Uploaded a video from 2011, my Qualifying run with a bone stock RB20DET. Built car in 8 days and got 3rd even with blown stock front coils.

Round 4 Vegas Drift 2011 Joey's qualifying run - YouTube

StryfeS13

So are you on stock internals with your KKR?

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drifterjoey

Yes its stock internals.

slideslidegnarslide

I'm currently building an rb25 s13. I would have went v8 if I had known better. Parts take for ever to come in and are hard to find. But I really do live a turbo car so I'm still happy. But my car would be running right now if I just bought a v8. You can get parts for those at autozone. You break a belt at the track you can just go to an auto parts store and get one. You break a belt on the rb, and your done for weeks

drifterjoey

What belt are you talking about? I got all mine from autozone on my RB. If you break the timing belt, getting a new belt is the last thing on your mind or list of problems.

supersayianjim

what country Are you in?? i get my rb parts in a week or less(due to shipping). you can get a timing belt in a week.

i got a nismo n1 oil pump next-dayed for 210.00 total.

a few dealers specialize and stock rb parts. don't drink the kool-aid!!

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zerodameaon

I agree with this, parts are everywhere for these motors. If you break a fan/ps/alt belt everyone carries them as you only need to know the size and rib numbers, nothing special. I tossed a alternator belt a few years back, rolled into a autozone and had it on the car in less then 30min including clean up. As for OEM stuff it can take a week or so and you have to know part numbers but most dealerships can get it for you if they are not lazy and will take two min to type in the number you give.

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fliprayzin240sx

My thing is that I've driven cars with an LS in it and honestly, wasnt too impressed with it. I just prefer boosted cars more. Then again, this was during the time I had a 500hp SR so I may be biased a bit.

Who cares if you can can get a crate motor for less than what it cost to an RB engine, you'd get a long block with nothing else. No supporting parts on it like harness, TB, alternator, starter, ECU or transmission. Take you alot more money and time trying to source all that stuff out, then still have to find swap components for it.

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JDMtyte527

Yea as far as not being impressed with the ls it depends on what kind you drove. A lot of guys go with the lq because they are cheap. But the ls makes power where you need it, low end to pull you out of the corner and is smooth transition to power rather than a turbo coming to full boost. Don't get me wrong i love force inducted cars a lot. I deal with many on a day today basis at my shop. And as far as the crate motor you speak of, you are incorrect. They come fully dressed with tb, water pump, spark plugs and plug wires, headers, starter etc. and sourcing a t56 from a GM car isn't that hard or expensive. Gm ecu probably 85 dollars use hp tuners and can tune with the stock ecu. There are many companies out there that make full swap kits even for the engine harness and they are just ask expensive as RB stuff. A little research and you will see its actually cheaper to do an ls swap, more benefits, better weight distribution, easier to make power, easier to source parts, cheaper parts to maintain.

singlecamslam

Just drove 200 miles round trip with my rb25, drifted all day and went home.

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drifterjoey

^^^ A year and a half i drove mine to and from the track. Even after 6hrs of hard drifting, loaded up and cruized it home. RB is Reliable!!!