Tempo

I know this thread is old and got bumped, but oh well...

My biggest mistake was over complicating my build at the beginning on a budget. Seeing everyone on the forums with all the cool parts, conversions, kits and engine swaps, after sourcing all these things... I am now trying to keep the car simple and fun, but now with a stockpile of parts I might not use... Lol.

I don't regret buying quality stuff, it all lasted and even though people I knew were getting further on knock off / rep parts, I knew it wouldn't last... In some cases, cars got destroyed over cheap parts.


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KA24DESOneThree

I regret putting so much money into the car when I could have put it into a house.

Actually, I don't. I had more fun building, driving, drifting and tracking my 240 from 2004-2012 than I did with any of my other cars. I still love the way they look and the JDM shit as much as I did when I wanted to build a Doriten/Option cover car back in '04/05. I miss my Nissan friends who all grew up and grew out of it. I can't wait to get my S13 back on track.

I regret no part of my 240 life. Learning experience: droop travel is important if the car still has roll. Mistake: being the first guy (afaik) to run SPL LCAs and AZCar (that dude's website still sucks) front big brakes- the two don't play nice without machine work and left my car locked-up at my place of work for two days while I figured ish out.

Highway Riding

I regret selling my 04 Z33. Was effin mint and just under powered. Also regret thinking my daily 335 wouldn't be a money pit!

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unicoder

Mine was always assuming any problem was the worst case scenario. My first turbo car was a 98 eclipse gst - i thought i blew the engine and ripped it all out just to find i was a bad driver and broke the trans, but hey the engine was already apart in my garage

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rellik27

My mistake was busting a mission trying to find out why my car died on the highway in the middle of the night. Had to get towed home. Next day went crazy looking for what the problem could be. I changed the fuel pump fuse and got the car to run but pure black smoke was coming out. I was thinking the worst for my RB25. just when I thought it was over it hit me and found a stupid coupler was blown. After fixing that car was running perfect again. Man the relief was great and I felt very stupid for not checking that first. Lol wasted money on a tow and bought another maf thinking that was the problem.

Future240

Another regret I have is not swapping my car earlier. SR20's are $1,200-$1,500 more than they used to be.

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jared420sx

My whole 240sx carrer was a learning expierence / diw.
Just check out some of my old threads haha

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Corbic

No Replacements for Displacement. Spent way to much time dicking around with an SR20. RB25DET with bolt ons and a tune is a billion times better.


Fuck race cars. I did every single “must have” mod to my 240sx and it’s just rode rough, harsh and loud. My buddies 100% stock S13 with a tuned RB and Kazaa was a way more fun car to drive.

SlmdCpe

Truth, though I didnt make the same mistake. I had my SR at a conservative HP & boost. Still blew. Fuck building it again and spending 7-10k to make 400whp the right way. LS >

And you just might be getting old is all.

Wild buff-evo

Not a 240, but my Evo 9

Just finished replacing the timing belt. Started the car and started to back out of the garage when I noticed that I had no power steering and the car was struggling to stay on. Thought it was my shitty old mini Odyssey PC battery going out or something. Car kept stalling at lights as I drove down the street and I was WTF.
Pulled over, looked underneath the car........ I had left the screwdriver in the tensioner pulley which was preventing it from tensioning the serpentine belt which runs the power steering pump, alternator, water pump, etc... *Facepalm* (Car never overheated). Fixed the problem in a nearby parking lot, car has been running like a beast ever since. lmao.

randyjordan

i regret getting into 240's

LOL

[email protected]

My entire life has been a learning curve lol

but seriously I would say i regret selling my S13, that thing was a pile of shit but it was reliable and fun. that RB20 would never quit, miss shifted once instead of slamming 4th i grabbed 2nd and that was easily 9000 RPM before it spit out the gear lol. car still drove me home and drove hard for a year before i sold it.

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Corbic

Exactly. Buy an SR20 for $3k, Spend $10k replacing every inch of it. I've come to the conclusion they are suck-balls engines. Once you start thinking about doing a CD009 Swap, might as well do a N/A 2JZ, 4G63, K24, J32, 5.3 etc.

I like the idea of using inexpensive engine that can take 400-500whp of boost, pop it, replace it with another for $200-$300. I like PoorMans180SX's idea of using a VG33E.


http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065&page=12


Naw, just more experienced and wise. There really is a balance to a fun street car.

kyral

broke the plastic crown on the alternator. that was the end of that alternator

over torque'd trans cross member bolts and stripped them

stripped a ka idler sprocket bolt because nissans toque spec is insane for the amount of threads the stock bolt threads into

threw out my stock exhaust

installed a trans without fully inspecting it. locked up before the car came off jack stands

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oldman_KA_T

probably something every 240 owner has done... sold a clean stock unmolested 240 for a profit so that they could buy a modded 240 that turned out to be a corner-cut, hack-job, pos once you start to wrench on it. literally the worst feeling ever knowing you fked up.

if you have a stock unmolested 240, do not ever sell it. they are worth the premium, and you will regret it forever.

slider2828

LOL! I recently found a cd009 for like $400 and then the mazworx kit for liek 1500.... not bad for a bullet proof swap......

Agreed SR's not the best, but the power to weight on s13 is just right....

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Kingtal0n

fixed

whos next I'm here all week

TheRealSy90

I just LAUGH OUT LOUD when people say their "built" sr20 blew up, and then they blame the sr20 for being a bad engine. Sorry, but your engine was just built bad. I daily drove and drifted my first sr20 for 8 years and sold it still running healthily. And that was after importing it from Japan with undocumented miles.

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oldman_KA_T

that is because in the sr community, "built" means cranking up the boost on a gt2871r without so much as even replacing a valve cover gasket when it is fresh off the boat from jdm land. every other sr car you see listed for sale isn't running. people have a budget of like $3k and instead of building their stock ka and adding a turbo, they buy some busted sr swap that lies about having 50,000 miles and probably got pegged off the limiter at ebisu before it was pulled due to being on it's last lag. lmfao. exactly why i don't hang out with the sr crowd

TheRealSy90

Okay but now you're assuming that every sr20 fan does that. Those are the irresponsible owners that blow them up and blame it on the engine. Don't assume that every single sr20 fan is an ignorant fool and call it "the sr community"... Sorry you base who you hang out with off of a couple people.

There are still people out there that care about them, know how to maintain them and keep them happy. And we don't blame the engine for blowing up when it's improperly assembled by some random machine shop or friend.

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oldman_KA_T

i'm just busting balls, but you know darn well its the mass majority of sr owners. they got to have that jdm sht when they could have a reliable 300whp ka for the same price.

Corbic

But then anyone that knows engines also knows they are just an inferior design.

The engine is nowhere near as strong as a 4G63 or as efficient as a K20/24.

Perspective of what makes a good engine has also shifted. Spending $5-10k for a 200-400whp 4-banger is ludicrous today. And dropping $10k is damn near what it's going to cost to "properly" build a SR20.

Engine Set - $3k
Machine Work - $600
Rods - $400
Pistons - $500
Bearings + Gaskets - $500
Oil Pan - $150
Intake - $500
Exhaust $700
Turbo - $700
Injectors $1000
Fuel Rail + Reg - $300
Cams - $500
Oil pump, 300ZX MAF, Tuning Device, et al +1,000
Clutch - $500
ARP Headstuds - $300
Headgasket - $200


Still got a junk transmission - so CD009, RB25, R154, T56 = +$1,500


Well that's $12,350 right there, and that doesn't even have a FMIC, Fuel Pump, Engine Mounts, Drive Shaft, LSD etc.

Fuck, buy a used C5 Z06 and be done with it.

JrDarknes

Truth man Truth. Love mine. I don't care what people say, I prefer it far over the SR20 and the sound is just lovely. Cant wait to go home and drive it now haha.

Yea another mistake I made was not doing maintenance when my engine arrived from new jersey. Timing belt was close to being shredded, Waterpump was in horrible condition, belts looked like they could of tore any second. I just dropped the damn thing in there haha. Did all of the maintenance in the car but its not bad. I actually like working on it over the KA. Just wish I did it when the engine was out.

oldman_KA_T

I was going to say that it is nothing special in terms of engineering but knew i would get flamed. the only benefit is that it is a direct swap, but that is negated when you consider the money needed to beef it up to a reliable spec. at $10k you might as well go ls.

TheRealSy90

Again, I daily drove my unknown mileage imported redtop sr20 for 8 years at anywhere from stock to 300whp. I NEVER opened that engine up aside from installing cams after the first 2 years, and regular oil changes.
You don't need to build an sr20 to have a reliable 400hp engine. If you DO then your tuner is garbage and relies on those aftermarket internals to withstand his too-aggressive tune.

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Kingtal0n

At 400rwhp I would say the bottom end of any stock sr20det is on borrowed time no matter how good the tune. That is close to what, 460bhp? Almost 500 from a stock 20 year old 2liter engine is asking for oops no matter what manufacturer.


The mistake here is trying to modify the sr20 without owning the machine shop equipment to do everything yourself and being experienced enough to do it well.

sr20/2jz is an amazing engine. They all are (the ones that matter). Opening anyone of them and doing surgery could cost 10k. If it was done right and tuned right there isn't any reason for them not to last 200,000 miles. Its just a whole lot of things need to line up that normally people don't have the tools or attention to detail to be able to achieve that kind of longevity, and it usually winds up being around 10% or less of what was possible, as evidenced by the OEM who did this, they setup a strategy refined over the last 30+ years to get better with time.

Jamaica

I dont understand when people compare K -series to SR. Old vs New tech. For what the Sr has done is impressive but its old technology with no factory advancements. My sr has lasted quite long time at different power levels with lots of abuse. Its still going.

R3b

I dont wanna say this outloud but I kinda regret staying ka.... should of used the money along with extra $$$ to go stock 2jz BUT

I kinda like my lil setup now that its finally "finished" with apretty simple cookie cutter ka built block. 2jz would of been stock with a nice 300whp, better noise but more of a headache for little stuff like AC and cluster. After this dyno day the car made 467HP/461TQ on e85 with stock ignition, intake, hard lines, plus s13 cams. Absolute blast in my car with AC and its my daily driver last year, do about 150-200 miles a week and only major issue was the fuel tanks plastic connector that bridges the 12v outside the tank to inside the tank. Gonna drop the boost down because even though spinning 225/40 is fun Im not trying have a collections of trans laying around so a nice low boost of 10-15psi for mid 300s is fine with me

I know only 1 SR locally that has bolt ons that is driven religiously but its an s15, i feel like SRs should stick to what they are. Little peppy low 300s bottom mount turbo drift cars that shouldnt ever be taken apart outside of headgasket and studs.

oldman_KA_T

if you have ever seen a 2jz on the scale in person you wouldn't want one. sure handling can be sorted with suspension, but that weight will always be there. talk about boat anchor

economix

THIS. I feel like when I purchased mine in 2003 that I would have time/money (as a college student mind you) neither of which I had - or the smarts.

Now however, I have the money, however limited time as an adult and I have just some of the smarts. But 15 years later...I'm losing my interest and there's a car that doesn't want to love me back that's got $25K in parts and some services just sitting and not going anywhere (that's NOT a joke, lotta nice parts tbh, but some cheapos too, & includes $1,500 price of the car).

These things seem so simple on paper and in forum, but damn it to hell I've maybe added too many parts and cannot figure out some of my own issues. She just doesn't wanna run decent for me.

I just want her to run and look decent for me. I don't need a show car and I'm over the idea of race-car as an adult though I do SCCA my other rides and wanted to SCCA her too...

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89 240SX w S14 SR20; 95 JDM 180SX S13 SR20; 09 Acura TL SH; 18 Jaguar XE S