Butcher240sx

I've seen a lot of bad knock sensors lately. Here you go.
I just tested my knock sensor today and found it to br dead. No resistance at all. I pulled a code for a bad knock sensor. My car wasn't pulling hard before 5K rpm. The new one is $200 and a pain in the ass to change, so i decided to bypass it. The ECU sends the sensor 5VDC and returnes 2.5VDC. So you need about .56M ohm or 560k ohm.
I went to radioshack and bought a pack of 100k and a pack of 47 k resistors. i wired 5x100k and 1x47k in series and 2x47k in parellel and that gave me exactly 560k ohm. I then disconnected the harness and plugged the resistor pack into the ecu side harness. I reset the ecu and went for a drive. With a 3degree timing bump and this delete, my car pulls hard and smooth. I only run premium gas so I don't think detonation will be an issue.

Ka24,ka24de,ka24de knock sensor delete, ka knock sensor delete,

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Don't Mess With Texas

yellowxhoodie

Interesting.
Any install pics?

ultimateirving

Just a reminder. This is on a KA not an SR. Sr requires 5v to be reduced to 3.3v to be effective.

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Z32 with lq4 swap
Desert Street Scene || Dssevents.com

KiLLeR2001

Or you can just get one 560ohm resistor... ($0.34)

ERG-1SJ561 Panasonic Electronic Components | P560W-1BK-ND | DigiKey

For example.

Either way, doing this method instead of buying a knock sensor is dumb, but then again it's just a shitty KA so who cares if it explodes right?

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delado

Or you can just do this: http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/461293...ml#post4765373

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Butcher240sx

The ka is far from shitty first of all. I know what detonation sounds like and haven't had any problems. I only run hi test anyway and Texas has good gas. I don't recommend this for anyone who can't feel what their engine is doing. The factory sensor isn't very sensitive, and on a non boosted engine isn't as crucial in my situation. So basically killer2001 get the fuck off my thread if you only have shit to talk. As far as using just one resistor I only had radio shack to work with on my timeframe. And multiple resistors give more surface area to dissipate heat.

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Don't Mess With Texas

KiLLeR2001

damz bro u r smart how u get so smart? i am doing to radio shak rite now and i be gonna hookz up five hunnid and sixxy 1 ohm resisterz together for maximum surface areaz

thx yo

ps, u r my hero, i am replcing all my sensorz wit multiple radio shak resistors

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But yeah, I better not see any "My engine is making a weird noise, what do I do?" threads from you, cause I will reference this thread and laugh continually and make sure all of Zilvia can point and laugh as well.

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trickey1991

this is a false statement. They are used to paper weights that's it.

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92' R32 GTS-T 355whp

Frank_Jaeger

Than how come kas have are greater displacement than srs and rb20s?

Ka ftw cant replacement for displacement.

grimm199

Or you can just go to a pick a part and take off a knock sensor from one there and bring it home for like $10 or less (5 finger discount).

hOngsterr

i bought my oem one for 35 bucks, lmk if you want to buy it, i dont have a ka anymore

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- Hong

KiLLeR2001

Has built an engine or two in his time, decides to ghetto rig a bunch of radio shack resistors together for a knock sensor. What else do you half-ass on your engine builds? Probably nothing right? Everything else you buy is certified diamond coated platinum tipped custom made for the price of the state of $TEXAS.

You should take up this offer oh smart one.

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Frank_Jaeger

Woah Florida. Calm down man. Don't get crazy.

Butcher240sx

Go fuck yourself .I was just presenting one option. Take it or leave it. It would be 560 1k ohm resistors dipshit. I've built an engine or two in my time so you wont see any threads like that from me.

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Don't Mess With Texas

Butcher240sx

You are an idiot.That how to was a quick project to test it. The final one that I built went on a circuit board and was terminated with a factory harnes conector. I prefeer not to run my knock sensor and that is my decision. Go be Mr. Coolguy somewhere else, not here. It doesn't impress anyone. My option works just fine in a few track cars right now. So il let my drivers decide what to do with their cars.

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Don't Mess With Texas

KiLLeR2001

People have known about the 1M ohm resistor trick for YEARS now (which can also be bought at Radio Shack). You are not introducing anything new to the table with this mod, you are just wasting your time and the potential time of other morons who choose to heed your expert advice.

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Butcher240sx

1M ohm isn't the correct resistance. The OEM is around 560k from the ones I checked. I've seen and fixed more than a few swaps with butt connectors and twisted wires. Maybe someone would actually be interested in series/parallel circuits and learn something. I've also seen the 1M ohm fail from what seemed to be heat. I'd like to be as accurate as possible with input voltages in my ecu. I'm no expert, but I can try to learn like everyone else. Like I said, take it or leave it. Go find some teenager to bash on. You aren't doing anything for anyone here.

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Don't Mess With Texas

Kuma

meh... Houston gas sucks. Especially Valero (sp?) in Katy.


I remember fishing my knock sensor into position with a coat hanger and it not being too hard. Seems like this jerry rig you did looks more difficult than doing it the right way. To each their own I guess.

Butcher240sx

I'm near Katy too. I try to find a Phillips or Texaco. I've done a sensor replacement before on my other hatch. It was a pain. This was a very basic how to just to show how it could be done. it was about bypassing the sensor. Not replacing itThe finished product is fine for me. Soldered connections and no zipties. Better than half the cars I see around.

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Don't Mess With Texas

Butcher240sx

I like things fairly stock. Spent a couple hours today replacing my emissions parts. New vac lines and canister. Oem clutch fan and shroud. New egr. Maybe we can have a discussion on egr. That usually starts a good fight.

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Don't Mess With Texas

Butcher240sx

Ten years ago these Ka's were great paperwieights and could be had for $100 running with tranny. not now. The KA has much more aftermarket now. Ive seen KAT done very well for no more than an sr swap with similar bolt ons. ive driven good and bad examples of KA and SR. Different strokes for different folks. but I like my KA, I got my first 240 in 1995 it was an 89 single cam.

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Don't Mess With Texas

waxball88

Shhh ka's suck
Anyone looking to get rid of an engine set for 200 hit me up

sharpe_corners

"butcher240sx" what a fitting title! Good problem solving but idk, looks rigged up.

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Butcher240sx

Come take a close look at my car. You won't find anything half assed. Lots of trips to the dealership for OEM parts. The pic is the first one I did to mess around with the resistance. The one on the car now is in a small project box. The harness was relocated back on the manifold. And tucked away nicely. This engines coming out next month and my other project is going in.

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Don't Mess With Texas

KiLLeR2001

Stop trying to defend your engine building integrity. As soon as you created this thread you lost any speck of credibility.

A few friends of mine with KA and SR's alike that ran into the knock sensor code... They all bought a single 1M ohm resistor and plugged it into the connector and the ECU no longer displayed the code and the car ran fine. That was until a knock sensor could be sourced out which never lasted more than a couple weeks.

The fact that you distinctively created a set of resistors to mimic the knock sensor's resistance leads me to believe that you intended for this to be long term or a permanent option for people.

In short, enjoy your cup of fail.

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enohand

so....your basically taking a saftey feature & going around it?

why not build new. YOU NEED A KNOCK SENSOR if you vaule your motor. no iffs and or buts.

this is like cutting slits into your seat belts...makes no damn sense.

you want to start up a car & have it run to test...modify the knock map to be the same as the non knock map. (obvioulsy dont leave it this way since the purpose of the knock map is to richen up the system to not detonate/knock))