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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 11-05-2010, 09:10 AM   #1
ZenKi_373
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rebuilt ka

-Okay guys well did a short block rebuild on this ka. finally got everything in and hook up good (i believe) and went to start it and it only cranks but doesnt start.

-got a new battery because when i bought the s14 it didnt come with one.

-set it to tdc on the compression stroke and the cam lobs on tdc and nothing.

any ideas guys? ima redo the timing and try the distributor but for now thats all i got :/

btw when its cranking i can hear the exhaust *spurt* like it wants to start but it doesnt.

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Old 11-05-2010, 09:26 AM   #2
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check for spark and fuel
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:49 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsil80wis View Post
check for spark and fuel
Maybe your dizzy is off one tooth?
Turn the dizzy all the one to the left and try and start it.
Turn the dizzy all the way to the right and try and start it.

If it likes one way better, you're probably off a tooth in that direction.
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:49 AM   #4
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well guys me and my dad got it to run finally. redid the dizzy and check the spark plugs and just cranking it for like 20 seconds it turns on but runs like "ish" it runs but afterwhile its like fighting to stay on. (not applying gas) it finally dies. so im kinda stumped?
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:22 AM   #5
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Start it, and put something on the gas so that it stays around 2200rpm. Leave it like that for at least 20 minutes to let the rings break in and seal.

Then see how it runs after that.
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Start it, and put something on the gas so that it stays around 2200rpm. Leave it like that for at least 20 minutes to let the rings break in and seal.

Then see how it runs after that.

when i start it (clutch in and holding) the car idles around 500 then slowly dies out in about 5 seconds. if i try to add gas it drops even lower and dies quicker.

any ideas zilvians?

Last edited by ZenKi_373; 11-12-2010 at 01:33 PM..
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Start it, and put something on the gas so that it stays around 2200rpm. Leave it like that for at least 20 minutes to let the rings break in and seal.

Then see how it runs after that.

Oh god, dont do that. That is a horrible plan. The worst plan. That wont seat rings. Look any freshly assembled engine with new rings will have slightly lower compression. But we are talking very slightly lower. Nothing that would cause you to have a low idle and then die. You are dealing with a symptom of another problem that might prevent you from being able to properly break in your engine. I would start by making sure that your timing marks are spot on, crank cams and distributor, then i would check the base timing procedure and make sure that you have performed that correctly and that it is good. Then i would start looking at things like the idle air control valve and vacuum lines. DO NOT HOLD THE THROTTLE AT 2200 RPM FOR 20 MINUTES!
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hsitko View Post
Oh god, dont do that. That is a horrible plan. The worst plan. That wont seat rings. Look any freshly assembled engine with new rings will have slightly lower compression. But we are talking very slightly lower. Nothing that would cause you to have a low idle and then die. You are dealing with a symptom of another problem that might prevent you from being able to properly break in your engine. I would start by making sure that your timing marks are spot on, crank cams and distributor, then i would check the base timing procedure and make sure that you have performed that correctly and that it is good. Then i would start looking at things like the idle air control valve and vacuum lines. DO NOT HOLD THE THROTTLE AT 2200 RPM FOR 20 MINUTES!

fa show. the machinist who did my block did some sort of diamond cut bullshit and supposibly it should run like normal without breaking in. but i will try these steps ty.
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Old 11-18-2010, 02:16 AM   #9
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questions about your rebuild

i just started taking apart my KA. Im doing a full top to bottom OEM rebuild. what complications other than your post did you run into? The only thing im really worried about is the timing when i reassembel do you have any pics for the TDC on the cams? or just let me know where the marks are. Did you have any issues with lining up the distributer? ive taken 1000+ pics just. but just to be sure ya know. also ive got all the print outs available for rebuilding this motor but id like some feed back from someone who has just done it. anything will help thanks!
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Old 11-18-2010, 02:22 AM   #10
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if a cam sproket is a tooth off, it will run like shit.
i did it..
got it one tooth over, ran amazing.
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14Driftn4life View Post
i just started taking apart my KA. Im doing a full top to bottom OEM rebuild. what complications other than your post did you run into? The only thing im really worried about is the timing when i reassembel do you have any pics for the TDC on the cams? or just let me know where the marks are. Did you have any issues with lining up the distributer? ive taken 1000+ pics just. but just to be sure ya know. also ive got all the print outs available for rebuilding this motor but id like some feed back from someone who has just done it. anything will help thanks!
sorry for the late reply. everything is straight forward. the cam lobes open outwards exactly like in the JWT description. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...R%20KA24DE.PDF

and if the cam dowel pins dont line up like in the pic you got them backwards. i had that problem and it sucked haha. other than that make sure you buy a new tensioner. replace all seals. if you want pictures or for some help call me 915-526-8895. ill send pics off my build stages and help with any questions you have bro. becuase i know cam timing is a BITCH


CURRENTLY im stuck getting it to stay on. it dies at an idle...and im working on vacumm lines but my dad fucked with something when i wasnt there and now when i turn the key in the ignition, no odometer lights come on, no beeping that the doors open or anything. so yeah. checked fuses, alternator is solid, WTF
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:57 PM   #12
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okay the odometer problem turned out to be a blown 100a fuse! so be sure to check that if anyone has same problems.

i re-did all the vacum lines near the firewall and it fired up but again it idled now a lil higher at 1000rpms but after about 5 seconds it died. with throttle in it completely quits. unplugged MAF and it doesnt start up.

im thinking iacv or maybe try another MAF? any suggestion guys?
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:23 PM   #13
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okay guys searched around and some other ppl said it may be the fuel pump. so went to autozone got a new fuel pump and filter.

installed that bizzitch and still NOTHING.

unplugged the MAF and it doesnt affect. same old crap.

but at certain time before it dies at the idle if i have the accelerator at WOT the rpms rise and i can go near 4000k(havent tried going farther since car isnt warmed up) and it can hold it at any rpms but after awhile the rpms start dropping and it dies.

so whats next? im thinking just re-do the timing even though i made sure it was perfect when i first did the build, new IACV. sell tha motherfucka
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:26 PM   #14
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okay found a vacumm and covered it up. got the car to idle (fluctuating) between 500-700 but when i press the gas (hold it at wot) it drops to about 300rpms and stays like that.

any ideas guys? im gettin hella frustrated on this stupid problem to get it running! its been damn near 6 months...
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:37 PM   #15
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it sounds like it is timing. i had the same symptoms you are experiencing. I had to re-do timing about 4 times.

also make sure you installed the cam gears to point with the timing chain.
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
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it sounds like it is timing. i had the same symptoms you are experiencing. I had to re-do timing about 4 times.

also make sure you installed the cam gears to point with the timing chain.
thanks i think ima just redo all the timing again. and does it matter on s14 or s13 where the cams are? i have the cam lobes pointing away like the JWT shows them but mine is a ka24de s14. s13 block with a s14 head/int. manny

oh and my temp gauge isnt working
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:29 PM   #17
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okay messed with it a lil more and got the car to stay on at 600 idle but the gas pedal is completely unresponsive, even moving it down on the throttle body doesnt effect it.

idears?
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:21 PM   #18
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okay gents, messed with it more and finally got it. turned the sumabitch dizzy back a tooth and it starts up sexy but it idles rather high. (1300) and i took it for its first test run today and when im coming to a stop (clutch in) it dies.

im thinking maybe iacv? kinda stumped guys. fuel pump is brand new along w/filter.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:21 PM   #19
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turned out it was the iacv. got a used one at the junkyard n cleaned it with carb cleaner and voila. it doesnt die with the clutch in. finally done. thanks for the help guys.
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Old 01-11-2011, 05:04 AM   #20
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dizzy? iacv? im days away from putting the KA back together i sure hope i dont run into the same issues you had. il write down your number and hit you up when im throwing it back together. should have been a while ago but i ended up rebuilding like the whole damn car cant wait to throw up all my pics! hope yours is runnung great now!
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:24 AM   #21
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dizzy? iacv? im days away from putting the KA back together i sure hope i dont run into the same issues you had. il write down your number and hit you up when im throwing it back together. should have been a while ago but i ended up rebuilding like the whole damn car cant wait to throw up all my pics! hope yours is runnung great now!

haha for sure bro hit me up if you got any questions
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