braydo25

Hey guys, so I've recently went through and redid everything on my car since last season and I'm just now getting back into events after a long down time due to work on the car. I did my first event the other day with the new setup and the car felt good.. but had a RIDICULOUS amount of rear grip in the dry that I found myself fighting, a lot - with a v8, I'd have to be in total throttle or clutch kick hard to keep the car from gripping up if I had a shallow amount of angle, which was annoying. car was predictable with transitions and didn't have much body roll except on one corner of the course where I'd be on the gas at the top of 3rd out of the corner (sr tranny) and have to let the car decel by sliding and downshifting into a second to get through the next corner which is very shallow. Also, high speed clutch kicks (4th gear) the rear end would snap out hard and unpredictably no matter the line I took or my steering work, which was very annoying.

This is coming from a ka24e, welded differential and apexi n1 coilovers for mods, which I ran a full season with and competed in grassroots competition with.

Anyways, maybe some recommendations to the current setup as far as adjustments?

Car is a 92 s13 coupe, interior is totally stripped, caged, etc..

Car has a welded differential.

Engine:
- 1UZFE (v8) engine, sr tranny, 230whp/260wtq, stage 3 clutch, bigger intake / exhaust, yada yada.. Negligible weight difference compared to the ka24e. It only weight 30~ more lbs, which was mostly made up for moving the battery to the trunk.

Tires:
- 225/45/16 Falken FK452 up front (30psi~)
- 225/50/16 Falken Ziex-512 in the rear (30psi~)

Alignment:
- -7* front camber (enough for close to flat leading wheel at full lock)
- +0* front toe
- +6.8~* caster (oem settings, probably want to bump this up to 7/7.5?)

- -1* rear camber
- +0* rear toe

Suspension / Steering
- Apexi N1 coilovers (16/32 dampening up front, 32/32 dampening in the rear (32 is stiffest), camber plates maxed out negative in front, no preload adjustment on the springs, I believe the rates are 6kg front, 8kg rear).
- Modified front crossmember (steering rack mounts moved forward 1" to remedy binding with the increased angle), poly rack bushings, solid steering column bushing.
- Boxed and extended lca's by 1". moog ball joints
- Modified knuckles (car has around 72* of angle)
- Ikeya inner tie rods, SPL outer tie rod ends
- Nismo power brace
- Sikky 30mm front sway bar (set to middle stiffness setting). I only upgraded to the Sikky one because the stock s13 sway would not clear my engine AT ALL (oil pan in the way). The sikky one fits great.
- SPL tension rods
- SPL Ruca's
- SPL rear traction rods
- SPL rear toe arms/rods

Brakes
- z32 front / rear brakes, 5 lug conversion
- z32 drum ebrake


Any suggestions on why the car is having the issues listed above? Any adjustments specific to dampening, alignment, tire pressure, sway bar stiffness to use as a baseline for adjustment?

It's also very possible that my issues are from extremely minimal seat time with the new setup.

Jites

rear tyre pressure man, if its got too much grip then knock it up to about 40psi then try again, still too much try a little more a few psi at a time until its slidding nice. Suspension wise your setup is pretty badass, I run pretty similar setup suspension wise and alignment all be it with less front camber and I found the exact same thing.

Tyre pressure is free and makes a HUGE difference so id start there, still to much, drop rear tyre size

Livid_240sx

I was going to say this, great advice.


Side note great set up.

Goid luck slaying rubber!

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__________________
'91 s13 (Drift Rocket Under Construction)
2000 civic Si Coupe (Daily)

Livid_240sx

Forgot to ask, why'd you pick this engine?



Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

__________________
'91 s13 (Drift Rocket Under Construction)
2000 civic Si Coupe (Daily)

braydo25

I went with the 1uz for a mix of extreme reliability and a very flat torque curve. The other choice was an sr, but I've never been a fan of them and it seems they all like to present problems to the drivers at the events I've been to. I could of went jz but I wanted to keep the weight up front as close to what it is with the ka as I could. 1uz is aluminum for the bottom end and heads

JDMcheddar

1uz is a cool motor, its just expensive once you want to add power. I too would recommend high tire pressure in the rear.