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| Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Zilvia Addict
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Overfenders: How To With Pics!
Hey guys,
So, I have been searching for a while now on this forum to find a thread that shows how to correctly(ish) install rear overfenders. All I could come up with was small pieces from one thread to another (usually a person's build thread) or there was one I think that maybe had potential, but lacked pictures and any real step by step instructions. Overfenders are becoming a pretty common thing these days (especially with old beat up cars, so I decided to make this to show you (in detail) how to put them on. I picked up my overfenders for about $70 from UpGarage (let the hating begin). I then got together some rivets (call me cheap/lazy I don't care...these will come with me to the states whenever I come back), cutting wheels, grinding wheel, drill bits, spray paint, and some spray foam. First, we laid the new fender on the car in the position we would mount it (test fit). Once we got it all lined up, we made some marks with a paint pen, so we could re-align it in the same spot later. We then made some marks on the oem fender to have some references for cutting. Now, the destruction begins!...I mean fun part....or fab part, whatever you wanna call it. We start by cutting the outer skin of the fender in vertical lines. Then cut the inner layer the same way. This will EAT up grinding wheels, so be prepared. We used 4 on one side, but I would plan on 6 per side just to be safe. After you have done this, you will notice that the inner and outer fender are still connected at the lip, sooo cut that off too. Now you will be left with two separated layers of fender. Use a long flat head screw driver or flat head to bend the outer layer up. You can now tap the bottom layer down if need be so you can really separate the two layers. Now cut the top layer off, you don't need it anymore. You can use a grinding wheel to smooth out the edges after you cut, but don't waste too much time cuz it's hot and you wanna get back inside where it is nice and cool! Ok, so now you are beyond committed to this project, so let's finish up. Start working the inner layer upwards, so that you can fold it over where the outer layer used to be. You can use the hammer inside the wheel well to make some extra clearance too if you want. So you got the inner fender folded over the outer fender. Bust out those drill bits and start riveting the inner layer to the outside of the fender. (If you are baller you can weld it up and get fancy from here, but me, like most zilvians, I am cheap). TIP: Use some of the old sheet metal you now have lying around and drill a hole and make sure your rivets will hold (IE, make sure you got the correct drill bit for the rivets you are using). I then chose to spray paint the exposed metal to help insure that it would not rust and cause future problems. You are almost home free now. So get the new FRP fender and line it back up with the previous marks you made. Now start towards the end of the car, on the top of the fender (near the trunk lid) and work your way towards the front, and down in the back. TIP: Only rivet in one or two rivets, then check to make sure you can still open your gas door. Mine was off just a tad, so we got some sand paper and worked it until we could open it with no problems. If you rivet the whole fender on before doing this, it will be VERY difficult to sand the fender so that you can get your gas door open. Now that you got the fender all on, your finished!...RIGHT? Wrong!...Well, you could be I guess, but I went ahead and sprayed some expanding foam into the wheel well's from the inside passenger and trunk area of the car. This will help prevent rain/road debris/excess tire smoke from filling the car. USE LATEX GLOVES FOR THIS PART!!! After the foam is set, I plan to go back and place a layer of RTV in between the slits where the come is exposed in order to help water proof it. So, time to put a wheel on and see how it looks. This is a 18x10.5j +2 wheel w/ no spacers right now (yes the pair are for sale). Well, I think that is about it. So, let the commentating begin. PLEASE, if you have anything to add to these steps, a different way of doing things, or questions, please ask! This is a simple, cheap way to install them and get the full function out of them.
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#6 |
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Zilvia Addict
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We gave my friend shit for that, but it was hot and VERY humid here today in his defense! lol He made some excuse about him being Irish and how they sweat alot or something???...I think its BS though, lol. Nice pick of Randy btw, there are sooo many things going on in that picture! HAHAHA!!!
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#9 |
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this might be a long shot but...
Do you have a pic of one side with the wheel with the stock quarterpanel to compare how it is with the overfender on? Nice work. It takes some serious balls to cut up a quarterpanel like that. I'm not a big fan of the foam stuff you used although it does the job and it's pretty light. I use it to seal off doors and windows in my house. |
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#10 |
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Zilvia Addict
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I have a picture of the other side w/o the over fenders w/ some small wheels on...not sure if that is what your looking for. Are you just trying to see how much of a difference the overfender made as far as pull?
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#13 |
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Post Whore!
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Thats one way to do it.
I didnt over cut my slits, and i had the seam welded. So its stronger, wont cut ya, and doesnt need the foam. But if you dont have access to a welder, at least the jagged edges can cut the tire shred off before they break the fender. I also used blue masking tape and lined up the entire body kit on the car before i bolted it on.Things may need to be adjusted or "trimmed" and hammered a bit to make it all fit right. I also put the wheel on mounted, lowered the car to ride height, and spread the bottom of the over fender out to make sure to get rid of any gap. |
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#14 |
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Zilvia Member
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You made it look really easy, good job!
On a side note when I was at UpGarage everything is well priced... love that place!
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The thing is, it’s a gearbox, okay? It has one job to do! One job! Pull the lever… ‘Am I a pencil? Am I a cauliflower? Am I a nuclear power sta– I’m a gearbox! Oh, heavens, I’m gonna swap some cogs around!’ Jeremy Clarkson on Automatics |
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#16 | |
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Zilvia Member
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Quote:
In my way i never need to cut slits in it either, just makes more work later plus more areas for mositure and rust to form. |
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#17 | |
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Zilvia FREAK!
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i thought ur supposed to bend the tabs 90 degrees to help support the over fender i dunno never did it but i was told it helps
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#18 | |
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Zilvia Addict
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Thanks! If you saw the other side, or the whole thing I don't think you would say that. The R32 in that picture is a missilie now. Haha!
Quote:
Thanks! I haven't seen a write-up on this forum yet that included anything step by step and haven't really seen too many pics of this done, so that's why I decided to make this thread. Plus, we all know most people on zilvia are visual learners. Yes, this was done on Yokota at their Auto Hobby Shop. I can neither confirm nor deny this (I don't know). But, IMO, the new fenders are strong enough and do not need the extra support. Also, If you do nothing to seal the fenders you will collect moisture and tire smoke for sure.
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#19 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Irondale, Missouri
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hmm.. looks good, though i did my overpanels completely different from that O_O.. thought i molded mine in.. but i cut 3 inches all around the panel (except wheel well) off, then molded it in smooth, and i didnt cut the wheel well on mine either.. i just lay'd the panel over, then had a 1inch gap between the old quarter and new quarter.. which i used fiberglass molding to cover, and sanded smooth... (was gonna go with the foam, though when it harden's it expand's.. and we didnt want to pop the finder, or put any buckle's in it... since i put a really nice paint job on it) and instead of only popriveting the panel on, i used some 2 part apoxy along with rivets.. to make sure it will hold
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#20 | |
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Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
![]() Isn't the point of overfenders to make more space so you can run wider wheels with lower offsets and slam the biatch? |
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#21 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Irondale, Missouri
Age: 29
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actually.. i do have wider wheels and lower offsets.. and i didnt do it so it looks "cooler" i painted the car and molded the fenders in for 2 reasons.. 1) the car will look good when it does happen to wreck... and 2) i painted it because with adding different body kit parts.. the car was 4 different colors.. which look'd kinda gay with white wheels...
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#23 |
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Yea, I'd like to see the difference. No big deal. It's kind of like a before/after thing.
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#26 |
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Nissanaholic!
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my technique is to
-cut the stock fenders and seal it up. -Install wheels and go get desired alignment. -rivet top of over fender only -place credit card or material of choice to flushness of choice -rivet on the rest and pull out card done with no guessing of wheel/tire flushness |
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#29 | ||
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Zilvia Addict
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Fabulous Profounds 18x10.5j +2
Quote:
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