AAA240SX

I'm starting the body work on my 93 240SX. MSports widebody rear and full CWest kit.

I've got the rear over fenders screwed in with stainless steel sheet metal / self-tapping screws. I sanded down the heads to make them flush to the surface of the fiberglass overfenders.

Now I will be molding in the panels' edges to the car. I wet sanded the clear coat off of the car, and it's ready to hold the molding.

But, I had a question about it...

Right now I have 3M Fiberglass Mat and also the 3M Fiberglass Resin. According to research I've done, matting with resin provides a stronger hold than ordinary plastic body filler (Bondo, etc...).

I also have another option of going out and buying the Marson "Mar-Glass" fiberglass putty (Somewhat like Bondo) instead of using the resin w/ mat.

I just wanted to know what all of your opinions were on this.

Or could I also do a combination of the fiberglass filler on top of the fiberglass mat w/resin? Or Vice Versa?

I will be molding it all in myself, but a professional shop will prime and paint it.

Let me know what all of you think before I start.

andrave

mat with resin would be pretty difficult to use to mold a body kit. If all you need to do is fill in the lines between body and the kit you should just be able to use fiberglass filler... you can make your own with fiberglass resin, hardener, and talc powder...
or store boguht stuff is fine too.

AAA240SX

Thanks for the input...But, I'm trying to feather in the rear widebody first b4 I do the bumpers and sideskirts. Can I use a combination of resin and the filler?

ALSO, more importantly. My buddy at a body shop recommended that I mount the real wide body panels with Fusor adhesive. But, I used sheet metal screws instead. I was told that they can cause stress cracks...
What is your opinion on that? Any experience.

I tried to remove the screws with an extractor but, the screws are too hard to drill into with my metal bit. I think I'll just keep em in...But, give me some input...

andrave

well, the sheetmetal on a 240 isn't exactly too stout, I have drilled into it before to pull dents and the screws pull out pretty easily.
I'd say your biggest issue here will be the expanding of the fender at a different rate than the car, since they are dissimilar. I can't really advise you on that...
I can tell you that regular bondo body filler will crack with a few heat cycles if its built up in any thickness at all. And straight up fiberglass resin would be a horrible idea. While it dries rock hard, its very runny, hard to work with, and since it dries so hard its nearly impossible to sand. I'd say use "bondo hair" or some other fiberglass filler, that will retain strength but also stay easy to sand. Thats what I'd use. I can't really give you advice beyond that, having never done more than speaker boxes and body repairs with the stuff.

red240

You should rivet them on, sheet metal screws will back out, also cut the over fender back where it goes up by the trunk, also bevel the edges where it meets the sheet metal so it makes a better contour, then use glass cloth to blend it on to the original
contour ,and finish with bondo after you get it blended , the bondo should only be used to fill in where you grind down the glass as it has little strength by it self.
Your buddy is right about using Fusor adhesive!
jerry

Siizzzoooo

just out of curiosity, are the fenders 30mm or 50mm? I have a set of 50mm coming in...today actually...

I was planning on riveting them on and leaving it like that, but molding it just looks alot cleaner.

Do you have any pix of your progress?

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2004 Honda S2000 NFR | 2007 Acura TL CBP | Project ***Coming Soon***

AAA240SX

Right now i don't have any pics...Will post them 2morrow...

My major concern right now is removing the screws...
They won't come out with the screw extractor. The screws are to difficult to drill through in order to get them out.

Any ideas? Once I remove them I'll be able to apply Fusor instead of the screws. I had no idea about the adhesive until a week after I screwed everything in...

Siizzzoooo

well how thick is the actual add on fenders?

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2004 Honda S2000 NFR | 2007 Acura TL CBP | Project ***Coming Soon***

SleepySR

I work for a major body shop . i have 6+ years exp. first i wouldnt try to put fiberglass resin and mat over self tapping screws or rivets over time vibrations will work them selves loose and bust up around the area. when i mold kits,flares,etc in i use corvette panel adhesive it has fiberglass strands in it and it will bite to the metal and fiberglass. i would first apply the corvette panel adhesive to the body.....then to the fiberglass part. then screw or rivet them together to hold it until it dries. then drill the rivets or screws out and fiberglass them up then featheredge yur seam . work with plastic filler ,then glazing putty. and prime . if you have any questions email me [email protected]

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HyperTek

the fenders will crack with just rivots/screws, well maybe it was just my ricer brand fenders. Good luck, post pics when finished, I was gonna mold mine in but just took em off.

Question, I wanted to mold in the side lines that run accross the car, what would be best to use to fill them in??

andrave

body filler would probably work fine for that.

AAA240SX

After 1/2 a year, I'm gunna bring this thread back...OK SHOOT ME NOW...

But, I ran into an issue...

I'm selling the Bomex rear and swapped for a CWest to complete the kit instead. The bomex is in great condition, but there's still some residue from the Lord Fusor adhesive I used on the inside of the lip.

Is there any way I can get rid of this shmut before I sell? I've got a majority of it off but, there's still bits and pieces around...

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-John
93 240SX FOR SALE!!!!!

andrave

acetone?
be quick with it or it'll eat your paint.
or you could just try some goo gone or citrus label remover shit.
dunno.

btw I learned the "proper" way to put on fender flares if you are sanding them flush.
You put adhesive behind them, then smear bondo under where they will go. Then you put sheet metal screws in. Then you tighten em down so the bondo smushes out. Then you take the sheet metal screws out and put bondo over them to smooth it all out.
then you sand it all.
that way they don't get fucked from the sheetmetal screws.

Bradman123

nice that you brought this thread from the dead, cuz after reading mags with s15s that have widebodies and watching drift videos i was considering it for the future on my s13 240sx, but i didnt like the rivets showing like alot of D1 cars have, that i've seen pictures of. where is a good place to buy a high quality over fender?

the head

autornd has good prices on chargespeed stuff i am buying their rears for my s13 coupe

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I never knew you could do that with an eggplant

yenpit

DuraMix makes killer glues/bonding agents/adhesives for automotive use. You're right.....the only way to properly adhere fiberglass panels to sheetmetal, without flexing later, thus cracking the bondo and paint, is to literally glue them......then mold with as little bondo as possible.

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'98 240SX 5spd[br]http://www.speedwisemotorsports.com

90sr

aright man I did this just to a friends rear widebody fenders a little over a year ago and worked great, i mean it will definately take a little more time but its so worth it, first grind a 1 1/2in to 2in outline on the body itself to bear metal, then take sum, we used duramix adhesive, around the hole inside part of the flare, put it up to the body and hold it there drill a couple sheet metal screws in there around the hole thing, and place at the most if you have it 8 to 10 tack welds, jus so it adheres to the medal through that and the adhesive, then grind em down again so its flush with the body take a body hammer tap the flare down as much as possible but don't distort the metal, fiberglass bondo then take a DA- dual action sander with sum 220 sandpaper to the fiberglass, featheredge it done, ready for primer.

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chris's sr

90sr

ah scrap the welds thought u were doing hole fenders, not jus fiberglass flares lol.

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chris's sr

andrave

yeah you always want to sand to bare metal before you do any body work. But you don't want to leave the sheet metal screws in there. After the adhesive sets (and while it does that you could use a cheesegrater or some rough grit paper to knock down the bondo that squeezes out) you take them out, then go over the fender again with bondo, and then sand the ends down flush. after that its just like sanding and painting any other body repair.

doyle4281

I am about to do this on my S14. Does anyone have detailed information on the best way to do this?

brndck

dude, first off, good job bringing back a 6 year old thread,
second, if you actually read this thread, your question has already been answered very thoroughly.
happy new year.

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doyle4281

I am so glad you are here to remind me of how stupid I am. What was I thinking?

Thank you