robmontoya11

Can't bleed out all air from cooling system, I opened the bleeder screw and lifted the nose of the car yet it still causes coolant to be pushed from the radiator to the reservoir and out the reservoir breather hole. When I open te radiator cap, air just comes out. This happens every time I top off the coolant, how do I solve this issue?!

Croustibat

If you bled it like you say, you have more the symptoms of a leaking HG (or worse) than a "can't bleed" problem.

As long as the coolant is sucked back IN when the car goes back to normal temp, you should be ok.

The only time i got coolant overflowing is when my thermostatic switch failed and i didn't manually force the fan on. That was after like 10 mins of tracking the car.

Coolant temp climbed very high and it puked. Not a bleeding problem though.

Start by checking your water temp, and if your radiator cap does the job.

robmontoya11

It's not entirely air that comes out of the system though. Some coolant comes out.. And I looked inside of my cylinders and they all look dry, so it can't be a leaking HG. And if it were a leaking HG the cylinders would be steam cleaned

Sills

You never specified what type of engine youre trying to bleed. However I know the Rb series can be some of the worst.

If theres constantly more air in the system its leaking somewhere, usually HG. But check your heater core lines on both sides too, and where the hoses attach to the radiator. Those plastic oem radiators get brittle and can start to fall apart. You havnt really described your bleeding procedure, but are you getting the thermostat to ope, or at least have the air hole in the thermostat facing the top where the air is?

It could be a headgasket, headgasket leaks can be sneaky. I wanted to deny that the hg on my Rb was leaking as it had no clear "headgasket" symptoms. However I always had air in mine. I just sucked it up and replaced it finally, fixed the problems.

robmontoya11

It's a ka24de on a 95 s14 and I am still trying to find out why it's getting air, am I bleeding it right? Someone just explain to me the bleeding procedure again to see if I am doing it right please

robmontoya11

I replaced the thermostat as well but I noticed that the lower radiator hose doesn't get hot when I run the car with the radiator cap open

Atill93

make sure you have the new thermostat installed properly. it's important that it's orientated the right way
you could also take the thermostat out completely and then fill the car with coolant and bleed it and see if it cools properly

relaxamigo

OP, I suffered the same woes as you have just recently. The car would spike in temps at idle, but while I was drifting the temps stayed at 180. I kept seeing air in the system and thinking it was sucking in air from somewhere, and as others have said, most likely a headgasket. It has a new pump, clutch fan, and thermo. Thermo was tested, and the lower hose was relatively cold.

Try this: I found a lot of dirt and grime in my coolant. Flush your cooling system completely dry and follow this procedure VERY meticulously:

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how...tem-240sx.html

One addition! Also remove your LOWER RAD HOSE. Like I said, this hose had a ton of dirt and shit in it. Clean it out and run a hose to your radiator to also flush it out.

NOW the important part. Once you've flushed, use THIS guide to refill and bleed:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-ne...n-t393654.html

After that guide, even meticulously slow pouring, I still had air in. Attach a funnel to the rad, fill it and run the car, I completely opened (removed) the bleeder with the engine running and at 180 degrees until a steamy stream of coolant (with no bubbles) came out. The car was jacked up. If this still does not work, buy a $70 leakdown tester and that will cancel out your headgasket issue.

I still have not done a leakdown test, so I could have a pinhole leak in my HG. However the car no longer overheats more than 2-5 degrees above 180 at idle, and while I run it hard, temps are good! (Knocking on wood that it stays this way)

Hope this helps!

anti tyler

You can't say it's not the HG for sure unless you're doing pressure tests to ensure it isn't the HG. don't attempt to do anything major until you confirm your HG is NOT the problem. It's too easy to spend $30 on a compression tester or better yet do a leak down test before you find yourself pissed off later on when your engine goes because of the HG.

I had a slight issue with cooling before like most people have. Ensure your thermo is installed correctly accordingly, jack her back up and bleed properly. Also as stated before a bad cap can cause the system to not pressurize properly, allowing coolant to just expand and dump into the overflow tank.

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cotbu

Mostlikey and cheap to test, is the radiator cap. Blown Head gaskets tend to pulsate the water in the radiator, but this depends on the type of damage and location. The radiator cap if weak, warn or just faulty will not allow the radiator to build pressure. It will kinda just spit fluid out, but that spitting has a sucking effect, so you might be able to bandaid fix this by keeping the reservoir half filled.
Just saying.

How many regular miles you got on it? None, it takes premium!

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