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View Poll Results: sell turbo and run NA, sell turbo and get bigger, or buy another and run twin
Run twin hks 2835 on ls1 21 42.86%
sell hks 2835 and run single GT35r 21 42.86%
Sell hks 2835 and run NA 7 14.29%
Voters: 49. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-03-2008, 03:11 PM   #1
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SELL HKS 2835? Go bigger? Run 2 of them?

Alright, i have a hks 2835 i got from a friend. It is in prestine condition, and i wanted to use it on a twin turbo setup for the ls1 i am putting in my s14. But i kinda have thought to go with a larger turbo such as the GT35r as a single setup. And have debated the NA build as well.

So VOTE..
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:56 PM   #2
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:11 PM   #3
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:44 PM   #4
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hard to judge, what are you going for? Response? tons of power?
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDacIouSX View Post
hard to judge, what are you going for? Response? tons of power?
Exactly - also, what's the budget? That turbo's worth a large chunk of what a GT35xx would cost.
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:13 PM   #6
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Twin GT35R
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:31 PM   #7
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"GT35R" is too vague, hp ranges go from low 500s to high 800s, IIRC. So depending on the build and how much space you have, twins might be an option. For reference:

APS LS1/LS6 kit:


Custom cast manifolds:


They use T3 .84AR hot sides (50lb/min) with a .65AR compressor, times 2, for 600+whp at 8psi. And those turbos will be efficient to the upper teens, almost 20psi. Wowsors.

I believe BLU808 was using a single Turbonetics T6x (don't remember exact size) for his LS1 RX7, and the power goal for that was large.
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:44 PM   #8
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Fine, Twin GT3582R
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Fine, Twin GT3582R
Thank you Haha those would be great as twins.
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:16 AM   #10
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I say twin 30r's

Although i do love and used to own a 35r but i think twin 30r's would be great on an LS1 not too big not too small...

And i'm sure they would kick out a lil bit more power than those APS turbo's
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:26 AM   #11
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Be different, Go TWINS!!
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:49 AM   #12
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Ls1/ls6 blocks are only rated for 700hp! YOU can easily do that N/A and Spray.
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:46 AM   #13
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Those turbos are too small. I'd go "big" single.
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:44 PM   #14
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Since my Dad and I built a forced induction setup on his Z06 vette (with me doing the research/work and him swiping the credit card), I would say I'm "informed" on the topic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stiizy View Post
I say twin 30r's

Although i do love and used to own a 35r but i think twin 30r's would be great on an LS1 not too big not too small...

And i'm sure they would kick out a lil bit more power than those APS turbo's
Just because the APS units are not Garrett doesn't mean they don't compare. They're basically GT358xR, like S14DB posted.

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Originally Posted by karforty5 View Post
Be different, Go TWINS!!
The reason you don't see more F-bodies or Vettes with twins is because there's no room for them - the frame rails come right up to the headers. So yeah, turbos would be different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lr308 View Post
Ls1/ls6 blocks are only rated for 700hp! YOU can easily do that N/A and Spray.
This is an extremely important point - actually, they're good for something like 700 engine hp - less than 600whp for sure. The #7 piston ring lands are always the first to go when you push that number. LS2/LS7 can go a little higher due to higher displacement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by water View Post
Those turbos are too small. I'd go "big" single.
As above, if you're pushing the cylinder pressure/power limits of the engine, you're not too small. Big single would be big hp, but most likely not as fun to drive in any car, much less a 240. Even those twins don't spool up instantly (full boost around 2500rpm).
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:10 PM   #15
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IF you really want to boost then go with/ LSX block with stand 2000hp,cast iron 6.o block with stand 1000hp, or 6.3/7.0 block with stand 1000hp! PSI ON a LS engine is going to be serious hp/TQ & $money$. Then you really have to look at your chassis and wounder if it going to put the power down. Best bet go with a BUILT RB26 For the S chassis if going over 700hp due too higher RPMS! 9000rpms rb26
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lr308 View Post
IF you really want to boost then go with/ LSX block with stand 2000hp,cast iron 6.o block with stand 1000hp, or 6.3/7.0 block with stand 1000hp! PSI ON a LS engine is going to be serious hp/TQ & $money$. Then you really have to look at your chassis and wounder if it going to put the power down. Best bet go with a BUILT RB26 For the S chassis if going over 700hp due too higher RPMS! 9000rpms rb26
Sigh, so much wrong with this post.

The cast iron blocks will withstand more boost than the LSx blocks, so everyone going for big power but still using a standard block would use those. I've never seen LSx blocks go above 1000hp.

Why would a build rb26 be any different? Because it doesn't produce as much torque down low? You do understand that it would be heavier, with half the displacement right? Ugh.

Anyway - whadda you think you're going to do Sac?
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Since my Dad and I built a forced induction setup on his Z06 vette (with me doing the research/work and him swiping the credit card), I would say I'm "informed" on the topic.



Just because the APS units are not Garrett doesn't mean they don't compare. They're basically GT358xR, like S14DB posted.



The reason you don't see more F-bodies or Vettes with twins is because there's no room for them - the frame rails come right up to the headers. So yeah, turbos would be different.



This is an extremely important point - actually, they're good for something like 700 engine hp - less than 600whp for sure. The #7 piston ring lands are always the first to go when you push that number. LS2/LS7 can go a little higher due to higher displacement.



As above, if you're pushing the cylinder pressure/power limits of the engine, you're not too small. Big single would be big hp, but most likely not as fun to drive in any car, much less a 240. Even those twins don't spool up instantly (full boost around 2500rpm).
Well the ls1 that i already have i believe will give me all the response power i think i will want. I kinda want it to spool a little later, but dont want to run crazy boost. So i think i am going to just run a LARGE FMIC, and larger diam ic piping. I love the feel of a turbo when it hits boost. Just awesome. But i deffinately wanted (VERY BAD) the torque the LS1 can offer, that i wouldnt be able to get with a rb, sr, ka. Sure those can put more torque down than a stock ls1 with major coin invested, but if you invested that $ into the LS1 just the same they dont compare. That and the LS1 is really close to a wash of the weight of the ka that i pulled out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lr308 View Post
IF you really want to boost then go with/ LSX block with stand 2000hp,cast iron 6.o block with stand 1000hp, or 6.3/7.0 block with stand 1000hp! PSI ON a LS engine is going to be serious hp/TQ & $money$. Then you really have to look at your chassis and wounder if it going to put the power down. Best bet go with a BUILT RB26 For the S chassis if going over 700hp due too higher RPMS! 9000rpms rb26
wow..did i say i wanted a rb26? NO. i did not. therefore why bring it up? Do you expect me to be just like all the other swaps out there willing to just do what everyone else is?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Sigh, so much wrong with this post.

The cast iron blocks will withstand more boost than the LSx blocks, so everyone going for big power but still using a standard block would use those. I've never seen LSx blocks go above 1000hp.

Why would a build rb26 be any different? Because it doesn't produce as much torque down low? You do understand that it would be heavier, with half the displacement right? Ugh.

Anyway - whadda you think you're going to do Sac?
true. Sounds like your pretty knowledgable about this..
I think i am going to invest $ into a camshaft(not sure maybe you could give some insite), longtube headers (sikky manufacturing), and run a true dual exhaust from it. That along with a single piece aluminum driveline, and a reflash on the computer should be good to about 385rwhp. And just get used to the feel of the car. Then if i want more i can go to a large single. Cause unless i did a remote setup, i doubt a twin turbo setup would fit in the engine bay. Let alone clear the steering column.

BUT THAT HKSGT2835 WILL BE UP FOR SALE SHORTLY SO STAY GLUED TO THE CLASSIFIEDS GUYS
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Old 12-06-2008, 02:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sac View Post
true. Sounds like your pretty knowledgable about this..
I think i am going to invest $ into a camshaft(not sure maybe you could give some insite), longtube headers (sikky manufacturing), and run a true dual exhaust from it. That along with a single piece aluminum driveline, and a reflash on the computer should be good to about 385rwhp. And just get used to the feel of the car. Then if i want more i can go to a large single. Cause unless i did a remote setup, i doubt a twin turbo setup would fit in the engine bay. Let alone clear the steering column.

BUT THAT HKSGT2835 WILL BE UP FOR SALE SHORTLY SO STAY GLUED TO THE CLASSIFIEDS GUYS
The C6 Z06 (LS7) cam is actually a great choice for a strong NA/mild forced induction setup - people on stock LS1s with I/H/E and that (or a similar cam) are putting down 400whp. You will also want to do lifters and rocker arms, and rev out a little more if you're drifting (that cam hits peak power at about 6200 IIRC, so you'll want a few hundred more rpm). Very, very, cheap horsepower.

I totally agree with selling the turbo, swapping the engine in, and getting a feel for it.

In the Z06, the LS6 felt anemic, like an NSX - the rest of the car is a 9, but the engine just leaves something to be desired (until you supercharge it ). I think of putting that engine in an S-chassis that's 500lbs lighter with 3/4 the traction, and it seems like a good fit.
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Old 12-06-2008, 06:06 AM   #19
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I personally recommend a 454 aftermarket small block. Throw as much boost as you want at it and it can hold more than anything GM can offer, even the LSX block.

I'm building a 454 Motown iron block for myself, but I'm keeping it NA though. My motor now makes about 400 ft-lbs at the crank. My goal is to make about 600 ft-lbs at the crank with the new motor. A 50% increase

I know this motor has a lot more to give but: a) I don't want to overstress the motor, although I'm not sure anything below 1,000 ft-lbs would be pushing it, and b) too much power becomes unusable.

If I wanted to do something crazy I could throw a Vortech with mild boost and it can potentially make 700 bhp at the wheels easily, but that would definitely be overkill for a daily.
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Old 12-06-2008, 06:31 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Sigh, so much wrong with this post.

The cast iron blocks will withstand more boost than the LSx blocks, so everyone going for big power but still using a standard block would use those. I've never seen LSx blocks go above 1000hp.

Why would a build rb26 be any different? Because it doesn't produce as much torque down low? You do understand that it would be heavier, with half the displacement right? Ugh.

Anyway - whadda you think you're going to do Sac?

I think he means the LSX block, not an LS series block. iirc those were designed for high hp.
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:17 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murda-c View Post
I think he means the LSX block, not an LS series block. iirc those were designed for high hp.
That's what I was assuming as well. Don't make me go into a whole diatribe about "LSX" vs. "LS-series" again
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:19 PM   #22
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How much does your rat-motor weigh? Still uses the ZF 6-spd, or did you have to go T5?
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Old 12-06-2008, 11:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
I personally recommend a 454 aftermarket small block. Throw as much boost as you want at it and it can hold more than anything GM can offer, even the LSX block.

I'm building a 454 Motown iron block for myself, but I'm keeping it NA though. My motor now makes about 400 ft-lbs at the crank. My goal is to make about 600 ft-lbs at the crank with the new motor. A 50% increase

I know this motor has a lot more to give but: a) I don't want to overstress the motor, although I'm not sure anything below 1,000 ft-lbs would be pushing it, and b) too much power becomes unusable.

If I wanted to do something crazy I could throw a Vortech with mild boost and it can potentially make 700 bhp at the wheels easily, but that would definitely be overkill for a daily.
ya the big block would be killer, but the iron block of the 454 reduces handling by a great deal. And with the LS1 i will still be VERY close to the gvw it was with the ka in it. I already got the ls1. So there is no turnin back now.
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:21 PM   #24
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my cousin runs twin 2835's on his gtr

XS Engineering - Site Home

851 rwhp with crazy response!

i say go twins...but i guess it all depends on what your car is built for
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:46 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by SuperiorS14 View Post
my cousin runs twin 2835's on his gtr

XS Engineering - Site Home

851 rwhp with crazy response!

i say go twins...but i guess it all depends on what your car is built for
Damn that is some sick high reving power. I cant believe he revs over 9k making that much power. But yeah for the LS1 I would definitely go with the twin 2835's just because of the quicker spool.
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