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01-01-2009, 01:22 PM | #31 |
Zilvia Member
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STOP SPENDING EXTRA $$ ON OVER PRICED MOBIL 1, K&N and OEM FILTERS!!
$4 STP AT AUTOZONE IS THE SAME OR BETTER QUALITY! OIL FILTERS EXPOSED WHY NOT TO USE OEM OIL FILTERS |
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01-01-2009, 01:32 PM | #32 |
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I go for the mobile 1 and Wix filters from oreillys.
This thread needs less shocker and elder driver badges because its madd jdmmm.
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01-01-2009, 01:41 PM | #33 | |
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I use GTX 5w-30 and Fram filters. Why? Cause I have an NA KA with 85k miles on the rebuild. Not a turbo, not a race car.... its a piss-poor 2.4 that really should be put out of everyone else's misery lol.
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01-01-2009, 01:45 PM | #34 | |
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Quote:
i think i'm going to switch to STP from Fram. they look cooler.
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01-01-2009, 01:52 PM | #35 | ||
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Quote:
price of filters at my local Kragen: Fram $4.99 Bosch Prem $6.59 Mobile 1 $10.99 K&N $11.99 10W-30 in the winter 5W-30 in the summer Quote:
remove both upper timing chain guides and inspect the tensioner
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01-01-2009, 01:55 PM | #36 | |
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Why would you run 10w-30 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer? Should be the other way around.
Oh, and Bosch products suck zebra dick.
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01-01-2009, 02:57 PM | #39 |
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haha I have 250 dollar lugnuts, I still don't know what tranny fluid i'm running but I am going to run kaaz diff fluid for my kazz lsd, it's time to be changed out a year of street driving not that noisy at all.
Oil, I just buy the 25 dollar jug of mobil 1 for my old engiens but after reading that engine oil breakdown in sports compact car years ago I'm not down with using mobil 1 anymore. I think I'll start using valvoline synth but I rarely drive my car, only reason why I'll use synth. Filters, I'm completely fine with a fram filter, I am not an f1 driver, it does street duty. If I go track my car, I'll throw a puralator filter on there. However I am contemplating going inline cartridge filter and eliminating oil cha-gay-nges every 4000 miles as mentioned before.
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01-01-2009, 03:15 PM | #40 | |
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Quote:
The upper tensioner was replaced when I did a headgasket. There is no way in hell I am going to bother with doing timing chains untill I decide to re-build the motor. I know the noise is not the oil's fault, but the fact that the royal purple quiets it for longer then the mobil one speaks well for the royal purple's additive package. It sticks to the chains better and for longer then the mobil one. What really made me ditch mobil one for good though is when I put their 75w90 synthetic gear oil in my trans and all of a sudden I was grinding gears once the fluid warmed up. That gear oil was changed with normal ass gear oil the second I got home. I will be running royal purple XPR 5w20 oil and a trusty wix filter in the VQ once it goes in. I have seen a lot of pictures of filters cut open here, but no wix filters. Cut one open and you will see why I use them. Hell it is the #1 oil filter in nascar, and not some special racing filter it's the off the shelf one. |
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01-01-2009, 04:58 PM | #41 |
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Ive just used castrol (conventional) in all my cars since I started driving. I used to buy the k&n filters but after working in the autoparts industry for 8 years and dissecting every kind of filter made I use purolator pure one. It has an anti drain back valve (which most better filters have) and has a 99.9% filter efficiency.
But I am going to used castrol syntec on my new motor being that it is an 07 with 480 miles on it. |
01-01-2009, 05:16 PM | #42 |
Post Whore!
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Personally I run whale oil in the motor with a vintage papyrus filter, and I pour 1978 Romanée Conti in the gas tank and out the window sometimes when doing burnouts.
Brb, going to eat some Koala. |
01-01-2009, 06:02 PM | #45 |
Post Whore!
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Lol zero-weight? WTF for? That's for like super cold winter places.
We can run 15 or 20 weight here year-round.
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01-01-2009, 10:26 PM | #47 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Purolator Pure one should be the only filter you use if your on a budget. Its just under a mobil1 filter, flows less, however almost 2x the filtering. Same price as the Fram's
Choosing a Fram > Purolator is like buying a VW. Why pay money for pure shit? Im iffy about wix now since ive had low oil pressure on startup in all 3 of my cars when using that filter. |
01-01-2009, 11:28 PM | #50 |
Post Whore!
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I also use GTX oil but I use the K&N filter because it has a 1/2 nut welded to the end so u can take it out easier. I grew up with hot rods and K&N is awesome stuff
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01-01-2009, 11:51 PM | #51 |
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I run my 240 on whatever conventional oil is cheapest and fram filters. My oil change interval is 10k miles, what the hell do I care? It's a 240.
My bike gets Honda GN4 oil and an OEM filter. Overfilled half a quart, 3k mile interval. Just because I like it that much.
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01-02-2009, 12:59 AM | #53 |
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ok castrol is the shit, every 3000 miles i'd change oil and filter, when i'd change the oil it would be with castrol convensional 10w 30 WITH some RESTORE, and a NAPA gold 1358 oil filter. fucking amazing. i popped my valve cover off, and BAMMM!!! cleanest dome peice you've ever seen, but now i switched to the castrol synthetic now,without the restore, cause your nor supposed to ad additves (learned the hard way), cost me 2 grand, and thats just cause "THATS WHAT MONEY DO". and i still stick with the NAPA GOLD 1358. <try that shit
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01-02-2009, 06:43 AM | #54 |
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i use mobil1 and a oversized german MANN filter.... works like a dream... alot better than than the royal purple, but similar to the quaker state syn i used to run..
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01-02-2009, 08:39 PM | #58 |
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NAPA filter=WIX, that's why it's good. I get the filter and 5 qts of mobil one deal at autozone. I did my last oil change at 5k miles or something and the oil was still auburn, so now I'm waiting 7k for the next one... oh and its $30 and I have 3 qts sitting at my house so next time I go I buy 2 filters and I'm set for the year (or at least the next 2 changes)
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01-02-2009, 08:58 PM | #59 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
you're in the correct thread
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01-02-2009, 10:01 PM | #60 |
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Oh sorry. You're logged into Zilvia, you thought this was Honda tech didn't you?
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