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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 09-05-2015, 11:01 AM   #1
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Wink I'm stuck on which engine to go with please help

I have a s13 coupe I'm debating which engine to go with. I have a connection and can pick up a 2jz out of a is300. I can get engine, auto trans, harness, ECU for $800. I know there not the same as the 2jz gte. Is it worth getting and slapping a turbo on it. Also what Manuel trans would you all recommend for it.

Also considering a 1jz swap
Where would you recommend swap kits from.
Thanks everybody for your input.
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Old 09-05-2015, 04:29 PM   #2
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I'd recommend accepting a working swap is going to cost in the 10K$ range, and that is before adding various bits like brakes, tyres, suspensions, diffs and so on.

I'd recommend thinking about what the car is going to be used for, and the power / delivery you want.

And then only i'd think about "what engine can i fit in there".

Tons of engines have been swapped in there, from turbo 4 pots to V12s. It all depends on what you want to do, how much you want to spend on it, and how much you can do or find someone who can.

If you want an "easy", reliable swap and live in V8 country, grab yourself an LS and trans and call it a day.
If not, an SR20 or a CA18 are great 4pots on these cars (they were in to begin with). I am more and more thinking of putting a volvo inline 5 in mine, but that is because i love weird and useless ideas.
RB25/26/30/32DET are good and somewhat easy too.
VGs and VQs fit, but are a bit of a mission. I wouldn't bother.
JZs are a bit harder. I would not bother either, no point in putting a supra engine when you fit an RB. Unless you get real bargain on them.
Various bmw V8s fit. their V12 fits too. Audi/ lambo V10 ... will require tons of work, steering interferes and that engine is large.
Viper V10 "fits" but it is going to need huge cuts in the firewall.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:13 AM   #3
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Just out of curiosity how you come up with 10k
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Old 09-06-2015, 01:29 PM   #4
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I agree with Crouistibat, you need to know what the car is going to be used for. Weight balance, horsepower, power band, etc. 10k sounds about right to get started depending on which engine you choose and how many upgrades you go with. Think about cylinders also when setting goals, if you have to buy 6-12 rods, pistons, valvetrain etc. It will cost way more than if you were doing the same upgrades on a 4 banger. The sr swap is fairly easy and parts are readily available. I went with sr for those reasons and it is pretty light compared to others swaps. Situations will vary buy a 500hp sr can take on the v8s if it is setup correctly. All depends on power to weight, gearing, power band, fuel......my 2¢
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Old 09-06-2015, 01:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matman03 View Post
Situations will vary buy a 500hp sr can take on the v8s if it is setup correctly. All depends on power to weight, gearing, power band, fuel......my 2¢
A 300hp sr will smoke most v8s and be lighter up front.there's no replacement for displacent...except decreasing weight.added displacement will add more power and torque.But keeping the weight down will improve every aspect of the car from acceleration to braking,from handling to top speed,To the car being more predictable and easier to control adding more g force in a turn keeping it light is the best mod in my book this is why a 40hp shifter kart can go 0-100 and back to zero in under 10 seconds and pull as much g force as a space shuttle being launched enough infact you can crack your ribs in a turn,though I prefer my cars light due to being a kart racer and like my cars nimble as fuck.ever lost control of a heavy car?they do as they please and your just along for the ride,very unforgiving.
Just dump $1500-$2000 into the Sr you can easily make up to 350+whp while keeping it lighter up front then v8s.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
I'd recommend accepting a working swap is going to cost in the 10K$ range, and that is before adding various bits like brakes, tyres, suspensions, diffs and so on.
Lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matman03 View Post
I agree with Crouistibat, you need to know what the car is going to be used for. 10k sounds about right to get started depending on which engine you choose and how many upgrades you go with.
Lmao again. WTF are you 2 smoking? 10k for a working swap?
Sr's clearly go for $2,500ish. Ka-t's are in the same price range. Lsx's aren't far behind now that they've gained in popularity.
The OP clearly stated that he can get an engine swap for $800. Even if he had a shop do the swap, guarantee you it would be under 5k,
(just to be on the conservative side).

Sorry for trolling, I had to put my $0.02 in.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:30 PM   #7
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I got ripped off then.
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Old 09-08-2015, 06:22 PM   #8
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Lol



Lmao again. WTF are you 2 smoking? 10k for a working swap?
Sr's clearly go for $2,500ish. Ka-t's are in the same price range. Lsx's aren't far behind now that they've gained in popularity.
The OP clearly stated that he can get an engine swap for $800. Even if he had a shop do the swap, guarantee you it would be under 5k,
(just to be on the conservative side).

Sorry for trolling, I had to put my $0.02 in.
Keep on dreaming and guaranteeing things then.

And when you wake up, you can start counting. I have seen enough swaps being done to know how much they usually cost

Of course, there are cheaper options. They lead to cheaper results too. Who doesn't love a good cheap V8 swap, eh ?

https://youtu.be/2RBRCaVjYrM
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:35 PM   #9
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I would avoid the VVT version of the IS300 (2jzge) setup so find out what year the setup is from. Some of the fastest 2JZs are the GE version so do some research. Transmission (manual) is going to be expensive for that swap. R154, Getrag, CD009 all of them have a nice cost.

Croust is not too far off the range at all. Between parts and labor these swaps add up. $10k is not unheard of for a good 2J or V8 swap. If you can do the labor it saves some good money but a quality swap adds up quick. I've done the SR, 2J, and LSX swaps and even doing most of the labor it costs to play.

Dumping $1200 into an SR may put you at 350rwhp hoping you don't spin a bearing. Add that to the $2k motor set, swap parts and you have close to $5k right there. Remember the little things add up fast and every hour of labor is $$$$$.

Think about your goal then be realistic about your budget. As for the LSX swaps remember there are many options from 4.8 to 7.0 (iron vs aluminum blocks).
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Old 09-09-2015, 03:54 AM   #10
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So back to my original statement....10k to get an sr to 500hp. Not buying a bunch of used stuff or ebay parts. If you do it right, you use good parts.

Engine - $2500
Good Turbo - $1200
Intercooler - $300-1000
Manifold - $800-1000
Injectors -$400-600
Clutch - $300-500
Pistons - $500-$600
Rods - $300-500
Headgasket and studs- $150 - $300
Ecu - $400 - $1500
Cooling - $200-$700
Machining - $500-1100
Then you have....
Fuel pump, lines, motormounts, thermostat, piping, fuel rail, not to mention exhaust, intake manifold, wiring harness , then labor if you can't do it yourself.

Like 2muchboost said small things add up fast. I know, I have done it.
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:39 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the info. I know smal things add up fast. IM doing a 5.3 swap mustang with f1a. Before this was twin turboed built 4.6.
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kruked View Post
The OP clearly stated that he can get an engine swap for $800. Even if he had a shop do the swap, guarantee you it would be under 5k,
(just to be on the conservative side).

Sorry for trolling, I had to put my $0.02 in.
Who wants a N/A 2J swap?
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Old 09-09-2015, 11:47 AM   #13
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Not a bad swap at all. Turbo that biatch and you have lots of fun with them. Heads and configuration was setup for torque and no piston squirters. Check out club NA-t if you have any doubts.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:15 PM   #14
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Not a bad swap at all. Turbo that biatch and you have lots of fun with them. Heads and configuration was setup for torque and no piston squirters. Check out club NA-t if you have any doubts.
If you are referring to me, I was simply saying who wants to pay 5k for a non-turbo 2J swap? That's not a fun way to get into understeer land. My point was, once you add turbo, BAM we are at the 10k number that was being scoffed at. You and I have talked on LS1Tech before and I know you are well aware of the rabbithole a swap can become depending on how thorough you are. I'm still falling down into the hole myself.
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Old 09-09-2015, 03:14 PM   #15
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do NOT get that 2jz engine from the IS.

they have very weak rods. bad for boost. you want a NON-VVTI JZ engine, if you're are to purchase a non-turbo engine.

if i could do it all over again, i would go with a 1jzGTE swap.

you can push 400hp stock. it will be super reliable.
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:48 PM   #16
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All swaps have rabbit holes . Yes I remember you from the NA-t days. It all takes money to play. Reaching X-horsepower = Y money regardless of the route. People need to be realistic about their budgets and goals. Any of us^^^^ who have been into this for a long time know that regardless of the quality there are ALWAYS unexpected expenses. Still love this stupid hobby for some reason even when its the least intelligent financial investment besides whipping your arse with money or burning it lol.

Last edited by 2muchboost; 09-10-2015 at 09:38 AM..
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
Keep on dreaming and guaranteeing things then.

And when you wake up, you can start counting. I have seen enough swaps being done to know how much they usually cost
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matman03 View Post
So back to my original statement....10k to get an sr to 500hp. Not buying a bunch of used stuff or ebay parts. If you do it right, you use good parts.

Engine - $2500. might as well get a short block for $500ish since you're on a mild build theme
Good Turbo - $1200 feasible
Intercooler - $300-1000
Manifold - $800-1000 meh
Injectors -$400-600. feasible, after sending out to a lab
Clutch - $300-500. agree
Pistons - $500-$600. package deal for $700ish, brand new
Rods - $300-500. package deal for $700ish, brand new
Headgasket and studs- $150 - $300 agree
Ecu - $400 - $1500
Cooling - $200-$700. questionable
Machining - $500-1100 feasible
Then you have....
Fuel pump, lines, motormounts, thermostat, piping, fuel rail, not to mention exhaust, intake manifold, wiring harness , then labor if you can't do it yourself.

The OP clearly stated that he wants a swap, not to buy whatever and rebuild it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastmach01 View Post
I'm debating which engine to go with. I have a connection and can pick up a 2jz out of a is300. I can get engine, auto trans, harness, ECU for $800. Is it worth getting and slapping a turbo on it?Also what Manuel trans would you all recommend for it.

Also considering a 1jz swap
Where would you recommend swap kits from.
Thanks everybody for your input.
Slapping a turbo on it... seems like he doesn't mind if it blows up, meh, it's only an $800 engine/trans.

Once again, he's wanting a swap, not to build an engine from the ground up.

S14 turn key swap.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap
Would still be under 10k to jump it over to an s13 swap.

Another swap under 10k. Even if you freshened it up lightly.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap

A whole car for under 10k.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap

Omg.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:43 PM   #18
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Nice lightly built old part motors you found there. I said without a bunch of used stuff or ebay crap.

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Old 09-09-2015, 08:43 PM   #19
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Dude, get off you're fucking high horse.

Here you are, buying USED parts for your turd.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=475545

Guarantee you that you bought some more used parts here back in the day.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=469848

Don't act like you don't have something generic on your engine, whether it be an intercooler coupler or an oil return line.

I'm done w/ this stupid bickering bullshit.
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Old 09-10-2015, 04:10 AM   #20
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Ok whatever you want to believe, just wanted the guy to understand potential cost and not have inflated dreams.
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
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S14 turn key swap.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...=Turn+key+swap
Would still be under 10k to jump it over to an s13 swap.
That's the straightest swap deal I have seen recently, and that is definitely worth 5k all day. And a killer swap for the money. I would not do the work myself if I could snag that. The guy selling it spent more no doubt. If OP is open to something like this and local, someone else has ironed out the kinks, sorted everything out for you, and is kindly taking a loss on top of all that. But, it would be a safe bet to assume he has more invested and OP would be in the same boat if he started from scratch.
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:18 AM   #22
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That s14 swap is not expensive, but it still is an unverified old stock engine. It is refreshed, sure, but there is no way to know its mileage nor condition without stripping it again. And it would probably be a direct fit in an S13 too.

Now why do people swap engines ? To get more power. Who would bother swapping an old turbo inline 6 that makes less power and torque than any modern sub 2L 4pots ? I know i would not put 5K to get that power level. It seems somewhat a good price, but it just is a starting point imho
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NISR20MO View Post
Who wants a N/A 2J swap?
Plenty of people, the NON - VVTi version have pretty much the same bottom end as the GTE. Great motor to go NA-T on.
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:16 AM   #24
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If you want an na 6cyl go with a vq35hr from a 350z. I feel as though weight distribution would be better on the v6. If you want decent power for cheap just go sr/ca/rb20/ka-t
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:19 AM   #25
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Buy my full and built s15 sr20 swap.
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:53 AM   #26
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Plenty of people, the NON - VVTi version have pretty much the same bottom end as the GTE. Great motor to go NA-T on.
The intensity of the density is supreme. Obviously you would want to turbo it.

No one wants a naturally aspirated 2jz as the end result swap. Someone mentioned having it in the car running for 5k, and that is what my statement is based on. AND YES HE WAS RIGHT, but 5k is swapped and still N/A, who wants that???

My point, which was pretty clear, is that adding turbo and supporting mods to the swap recipe means it is more like 10k.
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Old 09-13-2015, 11:34 AM   #27
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I just did a swap which I am very happy with in to my S14, I dropped in a Rb25det Neo to replace my blown N/a Sr20det. My car is a jdm S14 Silvia so I didnt have some of the common issues (Which there is a full aftermarket to fix) such as clearing the steering column with the downpipe.

I picked up an Rb25det Neo, it came semi built with solid lifters, cometic hg, T67 turbo, 440cc gtr fuel rail, gtr cams, and a blitz access ecu. I picked up this whole lot for 2500 Canadian Dollars, however ive seen Rb20/25's with less build for as cheap as 1300 and even an Rb20det is a big engine for a car this size.

The engine also came with an Act stage 3 clutch. When you buy the engine I really suggest you be patient and take the engine/trans apart a bit and replace/inspect as necessary while its out of the car as it will be so much easier. Definitely check the water pump, Clutch condition, perhaps pull the head off and lay down a fresh headgasket, which also makes it a good time for a fresh timing belt. Unfortunately I skipped this step and regret it. I will be dropping the engine again over winter and doing a large service on it. I suspect doing it myself this is another probably 500$ or so ill be spending, Which is completely worth it to know your engine is solid imo. So were up to 3,000$.

The best part of the Rb engines is that they fit in very easily. I picked up an R33 crossmember locally for 50$ which is a simple bolt off/bolt in modification which will let you seat the Rb in well. You could also get Mckinney mounts which will use the stock crossmember or Syko mounts with the crossmember for better seating of the engine however in my S14 this wasnt an option as space was already very limited. They work well in S13's from what I hear. (3050$)

Dropping the engine in was fairly easy, Its a tight fit and the firewall should be hit in a few inches to clear the starter however 2 people and an engine hoist can have this step done in an hour or so. The stock S14 driveshaft fit into the Rb25 trans (Which I hear it actually isnt supposed to.. But mine did and im having no problems)

After the engine was in I contacted wiring specialties for my harness, with Abs I got a harness made for another 1000 canadian dollars. (4050)

While waiting for the harness I had to get a bunch of extra bits which I needed such as, Fuel line, engine/trans oil, heater hoses, other fluids, Ps hose, filters. All costed me 250$ at the part store. Then I found a Gtr fuel pump locally for another 50$ (4350)

Plugged in the harness once it arrived and that was about it. It costed me about 4350$ and my time. Im a fresh highschool graduate going to school and working 2 jobs. If I can do it, most probably could.
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:44 PM   #28
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congrats ! You paid no labor, have no idea of the engine condition, but you know there is a 750HP turbo on it, which would make mincemeat of the gearbox and internals if the injectors were not way to small to feed it. Also cams known to cause more problems than benefits on that engine.

Honestly, it is a good STARTING price. I'd have sold the turbo kit, injectors, cam & lifters, put some poncams, an EFR, 1000CCs, forged rods & pistons, a Z32maf and have someone map the thing with e85. Easy & reliable 500hp (the transmission won't like it so get a z33 one in there and you are golden). Or put a smaller turbo and injectors, keep the bottom end if it checks ok, and get ever more usable 400HP that won't kill the gearbox too fast.

But as it is, it looks like a receipe for disaster -maybe the reason it was sold in the first place.
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:16 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
congrats ! You paid no labor, have no idea of the engine condition, but you know there is a 750HP turbo on it, which would make mincemeat of the gearbox and internals if the injectors were not way to small to feed it. Also cams known to cause more problems than benefits on that engine.

Honestly, it is a good STARTING price. I'd have sold the turbo kit, injectors, cam & lifters, put some poncams, an EFR, 1000CCs, forged rods & pistons, a Z32maf and have someone map the thing with e85. Easy & reliable 500hp (the transmission won't like it so get a z33 one in there and you are golden). Or put a smaller turbo and injectors, keep the bottom end if it checks ok, and get ever more usable 400HP that won't kill the gearbox too fast.

But as it is, it looks like a receipe for disaster -maybe the reason it was sold in the first place.
I appreciate the input however I was trying to explain the process and pricing more so than the engine I bought and its condition. It does have an upgraded gearbox, not sure the model however it is a 6 speed. The engine is also tuned and has lots of bits to support the power. It put down 430 rwhp in the skyline it was tuned in, and was tuned by a reputable tuner. I bought the engine from a friend. He's just selling some of his stuff to get an R34 gtt. He has a 700 whp honda civic si showcar aswell which was tuned by the same tuner. I am confident with the engine I have. Again my post was to help guide through the essentials of the swap, any rb engine besides the 26 is fairly similar and straightforward. I didn't pay labor as you really shouldn't have to. I worked on this swap over a 4 month period while completing my senior year of high school and working 2 jobs at the time. If I didn't need to pay for labor and could do it all myself, there's really no reason anybody should have to. I didn't even have access to a lift at the time, I do now as an apprentice mechanic luckily so in a couple months I'll be able to drop the engine out of the bottom and inspect it while the car is stored for winter. (Dropping out the bottom is so much easier for any who weren't aware, especially on the s14 where space is extremely limited.
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Old 10-12-2015, 10:17 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sills View Post
The best part of the Rb engines is that they fit in very easily. I picked up an R33 crossmember locally for 50$ which is a simple bolt off/bolt in modification which will let you seat the Rb in well. You could also get Mckinney mounts which will use the stock crossmember or Syko mounts with the crossmember for better seating of the engine however in my S14 this wasnt an option as space was already very limited. They work well in S13's from what I hear. (3050$)
Not to hijack but the reason for the new mounts to bolt onto the crossmember is so the engine / tranny line up better with the shifter hole inside the tranny tunnel ? or am I wrong??

Friend of mine did a similar swap. 2500~ RB25DET swap with tranny, ecu, he bought new injectors, wiring harness, driveshaft and a chip tune to put it somewhere in the 300whp range for around 6000$ all said in done from what I've heard.. I'm at 250whp in my sr20 and debating wether to rb25 swap it in the next few years.. Better plateform and more reliable for my power goals
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