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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 11-30-2012, 07:53 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikester View Post
So is the problem still there?
ya the problem is still there =/
i havent had time to work on it. i was gona do the job all over again today, but it started raining lol. my only day off and it rains.
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:55 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 240SilviaX View Post
just get the exedy kit and call it a day.. lmk so I can make it out there to help you
im too broke right now, i need to wait on a couple more checks lol.
the duralast kit should work though so there might just be something wrong with the way i put it all together. but it's pretty straight forward, that's why it's hard to believe that i made a mistake lol.
eventually, i will order the exedy kit with a new flywheel too, but for now, i just want my car to drive! haha.
i'll let you know though, thanks bud
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:42 PM   #33
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Wondering if your clutch sleeve is too long for the duralast kit. Did you replace the sleeve & bearing when you put the new clutch in?
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:12 PM   #34
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^^^Thats what I'm thinking. Shit happened to me before on an ACT clutch. They sent me the wrong TOB and when I put it on the the stock carrier, the setup was too tall. Clutch is basically permanently preloaded so it wouldnt disengage and would slip. I had to drop the tranny, tossed in a shorter Z32 TOB and fixed my issue.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:59 AM   #35
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If you had not gotten you're problem solved yet, here's some thing to know!
Auto zone products SUCK! They are Nooo good!
Every thing you mentioned sounds good to me, that's if you installed it correctly.
I believe it's the clutch, I know it's New but thats your problem!
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:24 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikester View Post
Wondering if your clutch sleeve is too long for the duralast kit. Did you replace the sleeve & bearing when you put the new clutch in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
^^^Thats what I'm thinking. Shit happened to me before on an ACT clutch. They sent me the wrong TOB and when I put it on the the stock carrier, the setup was too tall. Clutch is basically permanently preloaded so it wouldnt disengage and would slip. I had to drop the tranny, tossed in a shorter Z32 TOB and fixed my issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dboyizmlg View Post
If you had not gotten you're problem solved yet, here's some thing to know!
Auto zone products SUCK! They are Nooo good!
Every thing you mentioned sounds good to me, that's if you installed it correctly.
I believe it's the clutch, I know it's New but thats your problem!

that's exactly what it felt like, it felt like the clutch was permanently preloaded so it wouldnt disengage and it would slip, that explains my problem accurately.

well i swapped the clutch kit again with another autozone one cause it comes with a lifetime warranty and the new set looks different. i put that in the other day and my car is finally driveable, however, it still slips when i step on the pedal more. not flooring it or anything, but it still slips a bit. i compared the new tob to the oem one in my car and it does look longer, i didnt know that the z32 had a slimmer one, i woulda gone with that lol.

but ya, i agree, the duralast clutch sucks! i never want to buy anything from autozone anymore. im just gona start saving up for an exedy stage 1 kit at least.

does anyone know how to make the clutch pedal stiffer? it is super soft! lol.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:00 PM   #37
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Dude, don't worry about your pedal, fix your clutch problem. But YES, it's easy- get rid of that dampening loop between your master & slave. Pedal feel will be excellent & the system will be far easier to bleed.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:56 PM   #38
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Dude, don't worry about your pedal, fix your clutch problem. But YES, it's easy- get rid of that dampening loop between your master & slave. Pedal feel will be excellent & the system will be far easier to bleed.
i fixed my clutch, kinda, it's drivable now, but i still cant put any power down to the floor cause the clutch slips at higher rpms. my engine is stock too lol. so the clutch is just weak af.
NEVER BUY DURALAST CLUTCHES!!!
but yeah, im saving up for a real kit right now, but in the mean time, i gotta dive what i got =/
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:21 PM   #39
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... Are you putting the clutch disc in backwards?
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaldizzle View Post
i fixed my clutch, kinda, it's drivable now, but i still cant put any power down to the floor cause the clutch slips at higher rpms. my engine is stock too lol. so the clutch is just weak af.
NEVER BUY DURALAST CLUTCHES!!!
but yeah, im saving up for a real kit right now, but in the mean time, i gotta dive what i got =/
Why not get the clutch refunded/replaced?
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:15 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bussitcustoms View Post
... Are you putting the clutch disc in backwards?
Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Why not get the clutch refunded/replaced?
bussitcustoms, no it's put in the correct way.

codyace, it was free. lol. that's why i did the swap.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:54 PM   #42
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Did you break in the clutch first before you start beating on it? You're supposed to take it easy the first couple hundred miles on it. Also, did you turn the flywheel when you swapped clutch?

If you need a cheap clutch, I've had good luck with Valeo clutch for about $110-120.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:56 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
Did you break in the clutch first before you start beating on it? You're supposed to take it easy the first couple hundred miles on it. Also, did you turn the flywheel when you swapped clutch?

If you need a cheap clutch, I've had good luck with Valeo clutch for about $110-120.
ya i shift at around 3k rpms. im breaking it for 500 miles, but i can still feel it slipping a little in 3rd. but i know that its not gona be a good clutch for breaking the tires loose.
and the second set i got is a valeo clutch lol. i guess autozone just rebuilds the clutches. but this one is a lot better than the first set i got. im gona stick with this for a while til i save up for an exedy stage 1 and a lighter flywheel.
and yeah i did take my flywheel in to get it resurfaced.
but im glad i can drive my s14 again. i just wish the clutch could handle a little more power, oh well.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:09 PM   #44
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Just save up for that exedy if it still slips after break in.. Ill help with the install
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:17 AM   #45
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Also you got a longer gear ratio when you installed the J30 vlsd which is putting a lil xtra load on the clutch.. the only way to get a stronger pedal is with a stronger pressure plate, or put a spring on the pedal assembly
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:06 PM   #46
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did you replce the prusser plate, and how did you swap the trans in because you might have bent the plate when you swapped the trans witch could cause your slipping i would take it all apart and inspect the clutch and plate
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:22 PM   #47
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no clutch, no matter how cheap, will slip on a stock setup
did u do the 5speed swap?
there supposed to be like around 1inch spacing from the
clutch pedal to the master cylinder through the firewall
if its not spaced enough its not gonna be putting all the pressure it needs
and be slightly depressed all the time
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:06 PM   #48
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s14

Quote:
Originally Posted by 240SilviaX View Post
Also you got a longer gear ratio when you installed the J30 vlsd which is putting a lil xtra load on the clutch.. the only way to get a stronger pedal is with a stronger pressure plate, or put a spring on the pedal assembly
it could be cause of the j30 diff. it actually drives a lot better now. i just cant pop the clutch. lol.

Quote:
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did you replce the prusser plate, and how did you swap the trans in because you might have bent the plate when you swapped the trans witch could cause your slipping i would take it all apart and inspect the clutch and plate
ya i swapped the pressure plate. the second time i swapped the clutch i got help from my mechanic friend. there's nothing we did wrong lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scels240 View Post
no clutch, no matter how cheap, will slip on a stock setup
did u do the 5speed swap?
there supposed to be like around 1inch spacing from the
clutch pedal to the master cylinder through the firewall
if its not spaced enough its not gonna be putting all the pressure it needs
and be slightly depressed all the time
i didnt do the 5spd swap. i bought it with the swap done but it was done horribly. i have an s14 and they used an s13 tranny, none of the wiring was done so i still have to finish that. i dont know if i have an s13 pedal or not too, does that matter?. i'll check the measurements later this week. it does drive a lot better than the first time. the first time. the tob got caught on the spline lip so it made the tob stick out a lot farther and that's what was engaging the clutch. and i also have a j30 diff in there now that has a longer gear ratio so that could probably make a difference. im able to drive my car now but i just can't pop the clutch to get sideways
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:08 PM   #49
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Trannies are almost identical
And pedals do matter look at the pic I just sent
J30 diff, turbo, whatever it may be
Shouldn't slip like that
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:33 PM   #50
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Why would the pedal matter if you can change the clutch engagement point by turning the mastercylinder shaft?
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:02 PM   #51
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Because the master doesn't have enough adjustments To compensate for the
Spacing needed on the s14 pedal
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:27 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scels240 View Post
Because the master doesn't have enough adjustments To compensate for the
Spacing needed on the s14 pedal
But if he managed to adjust his pedal engagement to the middle, that means he has the right setup correct? I imagine, if he has the wrong pedal and then he wont be able to adjust the mastercylinder shaft and itll be engaging all the way to the top.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:29 PM   #53
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I did this when I did my 5speed
I had alot of adjustments but
It wasn't enough
To compensate
I cut the slave nipple like a inch
N it was good but clutch would
engage way at the top

Most likely this could be his problem too
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:55 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
But if he managed to adjust his pedal engagement to the middle, that means he has the right setup correct? I imagine, if he has the wrong pedal and then he wont be able to adjust the mastercylinder shaft and itll be engaging all the way to the top.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scels240 View Post
I did this when I did my 5speed
I had alot of adjustments but
It wasn't enough
To compensate
I cut the slave nipple like a inch
N it was good but clutch would
engage way at the top

Most likely this could be his problem too

k well i just looked at my pedal and it's an s13 pedal.
i still dont understand how the pedal would make my car slip though.
but i guess i'll try to find an s14 pedal and sell the s13 one lol.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:57 PM   #55
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Na dude just add the spacers needed
Look at the pic
The 2 studs on the s14 pedal have spacers
Just get a bunch of washers or whatever
U need the spacing
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:02 PM   #56
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just go to home depot or ace hardware and get washers
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:07 PM   #57
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alright sweet, thanks guys
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