s13irdie2

hey
i just finsihed my de swap and now it wont start. it cranks pretty strong but it wont completely start. i took out the fuel lines and when i tried to crank it again it wouldnt pump out gas. Then, my neighbor took out his timing gun and checked if the coil had sparks and it didnt. I had another coil and it didnt have a spark either. How can two coils be bad? Ive had the worst luck with the swap and this caps it. Can anyone help? thanks

idlafie

First & foremost, what year is your car. I didn't see it in your original post. Since you mentioned that you aren't getting any fuel to your injectors AND no spark to your plugs, then chances are you probably didn't connect one of the ground wires properly, or you have a bad connection/connector at one of your ground wires. Both the fuel pump and distributor need a proper ground connection to complete the electrical circuit that runs the pump & distributor.
On a early model production year 95's, both the fuel pump AND the distributor use the engine block as a ground point. That ground point is located towards the rear of the left side of the engine block around where the Oxygen sensor is located. There is also a secondary ground wire that connects from the engine block to the firewall. Make sure both those wires are connected. Your car should start once you get all your ground wires properly connected and grounded.
Anyhow, hope this helps...good luck!!
ID
'95 SE

s13irdie2

sorry i made two threads on this. lets keep it on this one. my cars a 90 with a 92 engine. my friends brother might thinks it might be the fuses that are messed up. does the 92 engine have ground wires connected to the fuel pump and distributor? thanks for the help i really appreciate it. anyone else have more ideas feel free to chime in!! thanmksl

nightwalker

no fuel? obviously fuel problem related. Check pump with volt meter, make sure you're getting voltage, make sure there are no kinks in the lines (this is common on swaps) and make sure everything is hooked up. (also common)

__________________
In life, we often cast the line of hope fishing for the best possible opportunity. Sometimes with enough effort, the things we catch are nothing short of amazing.

s13irdie2

i tightened the ecu and now the engine check light is on. i tried starting it again and it sounds it started and i even heard the exhaust a little but it just shutters and doesnt start all the way. theres sparks in the plugs too. im using an auto ecu. would that be the problem in any way?

nightwalker

auto ecu is not a problem. Check timing.

__________________
In life, we often cast the line of hope fishing for the best possible opportunity. Sometimes with enough effort, the things we catch are nothing short of amazing.

s13irdie2

How do i check the timing...is it near the coil?

s13irdie2

alrite heres the deal
the car starts now but theres smoke near the downpipe and exhaust manifold. i think its just the oil buildup. the idle jumps like crazy. would it be the auto ecu? and theres a loud timing chain rattle that just doesnt go away. the engine has 168000 miles on it? is it time to change the timing chain? wheres a good place to get it? dealer or ebay. im not sure how much it is at the dealer but i kno its like 160 on ebay.

nightwalker

time to do a complete refreshen on the motor.

__________________
In life, we often cast the line of hope fishing for the best possible opportunity. Sometimes with enough effort, the things we catch are nothing short of amazing.

s13irdie2

will the auto ecu cause the idle jump? do i need to rebuilt it already? the compression is 160s all across the board. i think if i just fix the timing chain rattle i can run it for 10- 15 thousand more miles. what you guys think?

nightwalker

you can get the complete shorter timing chain that gets rid of one of the tensioners. Make sure you have the timing set correctly, and make sure you put the distributor in correctly. People usually get that messed up.

You shouldn't need a rebuild if your compression checks out fine. Just do the usual stuff, like water pump, thermostat, ECT sensor, and belts.

Remember, setting timing correctly is very crucial.

__________________
In life, we often cast the line of hope fishing for the best possible opportunity. Sometimes with enough effort, the things we catch are nothing short of amazing.

s13irdie2

i buy a new timing chain kit does it come with a complete shorter timing chain? and which tensioner do i get rid of?

idlafie

Go the the www.240SX.org website & click on the FAQ button...
http://www.240sx.org/faq/index.html
When the page loads, look to the left & you should see a crapload of links...scroll down till you get to Timing / Timing Chain...click on BOTH those links & read the info...

Hope this helps...
ID

idlafie

Smoke from the downpipe & exhaust manifold COULD be from spilled fluids OR leaky pipe or manifold. Try spraying some soapy water, (using a Windex type spray bottle), around the areas where you think it could be leaking from while the engine is running.

Check your idle and timing...go to the FAQ page ...www.240SX.org

160's compression across the board sounds okay....see the FAQ page on www.240SX.org on how to set idle / timing & whatever other problems you might have.....the Auto ECU SHOULDN"T give you any problems provided your timing & idle are set up correctly. Check to see if you have ANY vacuum leaks PRIOR to setting timing & idle.....It's possible...

Anyhow good luck!!!
ID

idlafie

Almost forgot...pull the DTC's, (Diagnostic Trouble Codes), from the Auto ECU....it will help you in figuring out what problems you may have, (IF ANY), with the car's idle & timing. Fixing that could fix your timing chain rattle. Sure isn't NOT your hydralic lifters under the valve cover???
To read the DTC's from the ECU...go to the FAQ page...www.240SX.org
Scroll down till you get to ECM Reading Trouble Codes DOHC
Hope this helps..
ID

s13irdie2

My speed and tach doesn't work how do i fix it?

idlafie

weren't paying attention again were you eh? EVEN AFTER I posted it umpteen times!!!!!




GO TO www.240sx.org ......click on the FAQ button....when the page loads, look to the left & scroll down the links till you get to SPEEDOMETER PROBLEMS....click on that link...

Nextime....just CHECK THE www.240SX.org FAQ page FIRST.

ID

s13irdie2

lol sorry about that
i checked on 240sx.org but still couldnt find info on the tach problem. another thing, if i didnt plug up the resonator on my intake, would it cause the idle to stutter or change?

nightwalker

time to go pay someone competent to fix it for you.

__________________
In life, we often cast the line of hope fishing for the best possible opportunity. Sometimes with enough effort, the things we catch are nothing short of amazing.

97240via

Check all of your fuses, for idling problems, check the IACV and also the MAF. Unplug the MAF and see if it runs better. Try to isolate each problems and a FSM will help a lot.

s13irdie2

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!! the problems wont stop!!!! i tried driving around the car today and the power steering feels like theres no power steering. the brakes are super stiff. i have to mash on it to nudge it. what the hell!!!! im seriously thinking about bringing it to a shop to fix it. oh yeah the idles still messed up and the timing chain rattles louder than n1 duals.

psychedelicbeats

is this phuong. im comin later if it's you. if not, uh.. who is this i want to help

s13irdie2

lol no sorry this isnt him. i live in cerritos. my aim sn is s13irdie2. if you wanna help, got for it. the more the merrier. haha. thanks i really appreciate it.

s13irdie2

do i bleed the brakes near the calipers? and how do i bleed the power steering lines? cause the powersteering is super stiff right now and makes this really loud squeaking sound.

idlafie

If the brakes are super stiff & your car idles like crap, did you make sure to CONNECT the vacuum line that runs to the Brake Booster?? That vacuum line assists you with braking along with maintaining a proper idle.

Tell me you have a Factory Service Manual?? Or have a mechanically inclined friend that actually KNOWS what he is doing?? If you don't, I suggest you GET BUSY!!!

ID
'95 SE

idlafie

If you hear a hissing sound in the hose where the resonator is supposed to plug in, then that is the cause of your problems...you have a vacuum leak!!!...Plug the resonator back into the intake and that will solve your rough stuttering idle....yes...the resonator will cause your idle to change...

ID

idlafie

The squeeking sound could be from either 1). NO or VERY LOW power steering fluid in the reserviour / system, and/or 2). the power steering belt may not be adjusted properly. Check the tension on the power steering pulley & the power steering belt. I don't know what the torque specs are on the pulley bolt, but you want to make sure the power steering belt is properly tensioned and the pulley spins freely.

Hope this helps...

ID

s13irdie2

i bleeded the brakes but the brakes are still stiff. i bleeded it on all four calipers. could it be the wires? its connected but would that make a difference if theres power or not. the brake booster hose was on.where is the power steering belt located? and how do i check if the pully spins freely? juss spin it? thanks alot/

s13irdie2

alrite heres an update
the powersteering finally works. there wasnt enough fluid in the tank. and the brakes were caused by the valve on the brakebooster being reversed!!! dumb friends. the engine still rattles like crazy so im gonna change the timing chain and im gonna try to get a new head for this engine. a 97 head would bolt right in without any extra mods right? thanks

idlafie

You check to see if the motor has any engine oil in it? Check the oil pressure while the engine is running to make sure there is sufficient oil pressure in the engine to circulate the oil thru the motor??
A weak or dead oil pump might also be responsible for the engine/chain rattle...you consider that??
Anyhow, good luck....
ID