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Old 12-19-2014, 01:33 PM   #511
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[QUOTE=Def;5787554]Easy there, killer. I was commenting on this post, but must have hit reply instead of quote:

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Old 12-19-2014, 01:37 PM   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quickdiversion View Post
I'll help out with a visual reference.
Here is my setup.



Is that a check valve or is that a filter? I assume would be better for the environment and your cat if there was a catch can there instead of check valve (guess)? But overall this is the best setup.

But I remembered during a dyno run that I could see the tubes being compressed so there is massive suction from the original design, just need to upgrade to steel braided.
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:41 PM   #513
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I have not seen an tubing being sucked closed, but I ran stainless steal to the check valve and valve cover.

Haha, yeah it is a one-way check valve.

I have not had any problems with this setup and, Not saying I gained power from it, but It defiantly feels like it revs up faster.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:46 AM   #514
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What was used to attach the 90 degree fitting to the Greddy filter on page 11? How is it attached?
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:05 AM   #515
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What was used to attach the 90 degree fitting to the Greddy filter on page 11? How is it attached?
Most likely a bulkhead fitting.
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:07 PM   #516
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I have been following this thread for a little while now and have two questions:

1) Has anyone who has completed the mod (Slider2828 and Blu808 came up with) noticed any issues in regards to tuning?
Reason I ask is: I shared this with my workshop and they have said not to do it due to the increased chance of detonation.

2) With the mod (Slider2828 and Blue808 did), is there anything needed to be done to the PCV (check valve) on the intake manifold side?

Thanks for any response!
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:12 PM   #517
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Did they explain why there was chance of increase detonation?

Nothing needs to be done on intake side. Its stock.....
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Old 03-01-2015, 03:38 PM   #518
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Nothing specific. Just an increased chance.
I'll check and find out.

My SR is forged and on high boost there is quite a bit of blow-by. Catching it is one thing (we have all been there), but I like the idea of trying to minimise this as much as possible.

The workshop answer has been to vent to atmosphere - however aside from that not being legal, it doesn't solve the issue of the oil accumulating. Putting the vent outside of the engine bay may also reduce the oily film in the bay - but once again the issue isn't solved.

So the latter part of this thread looks at dumping into the exhaust - is this a Version 2 of the original mod??

Or is it still best to tap the rocker and then plumb into the intake after the AFM?
With the stock rocker cover connection directed to the crankecase?
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:06 PM   #519
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Im looking for a one way valve that can be used as a pcv valve, one that wont leak under pressure like most oem ones.. I was told in another thread that earls make some good ones. This is what I found: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-251006erl
It's very similar to the one on that sr with the ls coils, only difference being probably just the brand. My question is, notice how it says that it is meant for fluids? Do they work properly with air flow? Have any of you used this kind of valve? Im afraid of buying it only to find out that it wont close because there's no fluid or enough air force to activate it. I tried looking for one that is meant for fumes or gases and couldn't find anything except for some huge ones meant for domestic v8...
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:14 PM   #520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
Did they explain why there was chance of increase detonation?

Nothing needs to be done on intake side. Its stock.....
Oil vapor tends to lower octane ratings. Of course this is in large quantities and if you have a healthy SR, it shouldn't be a big deal.

I still have a catch can even though the vacuum source is exhaust velocity passing through a Venturi.
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Old 03-02-2015, 04:42 PM   #521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatboy1Eight0 View Post
Nothing specific. Just an increased chance.
I'll check and find out.

My SR is forged and on high boost there is quite a bit of blow-by. Catching it is one thing (we have all been there), but I like the idea of trying to minimise this as much as possible.

The workshop answer has been to vent to atmosphere - however aside from that not being legal, it doesn't solve the issue of the oil accumulating. Putting the vent outside of the engine bay may also reduce the oily film in the bay - but once again the issue isn't solved.

So the latter part of this thread looks at dumping into the exhaust - is this a Version 2 of the original mod??

Or is it still best to tap the rocker and then plumb into the intake after the AFM?
With the stock rocker cover connection directed to the crankecase?
If there were a V2. This is how I would do it.

Crank Case Vent ---> Valve Cover ---> Catch Can ---> to Exhaust like JRSS Said.

Overall never had a problem with the V1 setup and for most circumstances your tuner will be able to see it during the tune.

I track my car and people have done it who race in the drift seriesin the bay area....
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:00 AM   #522
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This is one of the best sr20 threads on the forum. Thanks for all the information from everyone that contributed! I'm going to have a buddy of mine weld something similar but using an aluminum oil cap and some fittings. Going to weld a -10an 90 to a oil cap and run that to the catch can. I need to check and make sure fitment won't be an issue.

I've been having issues with filling up my catch can quickly. Oil would get sucked into
The turbo and spit out my tial q bov all over the bay. Then the oil would drip, hit the exhaust and everyone knows burnt oil smells amazing and does wonders for headaches. lol.
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:19 PM   #523
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If you have blowby , your pistons and rings are gone. Time to get rebuild.. The stock catchcan is pretty good.
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:57 AM   #524
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Did you not read the thread?
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Old 02-16-2016, 03:04 PM   #525
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I am glad this old thread is still helping people. Its a good alternative to get a s13.4 valve cover.... Truthfully speaking S13.4 covers would be the best setup, but not everyone has the money or the time.....

Please PM if you guys ever have any questions
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Old 02-17-2016, 07:58 AM   #526
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I still am not a huge fan of the exhaust 'dump' persay, just makes things too complicated when the stock setup works.

In my situation, I keep the PCV valve stock (on the passenger side) and then run the rear block vent to the OEM oil/air seperator (just a baffled box), from that to the valve cover t, from the other side of the t to a catch can, and then back to the turbo inlet.

To date, I still don't get any measurable amounts of oil in my catch can, ever.

bad pic, messy bay, whatever lol

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Old 02-17-2016, 10:56 AM   #527
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Its cause you still have the OEM air/oil separator (black box), but looks like you ditched the stock reducer there too....

It also depends on the track you run... too... I think street wise it will work fine, but if doing tracks with a lot of elevation changes like Northern Cali, then might not work....
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Old 02-20-2016, 09:31 PM   #528
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My setup is like codyace. I too have nothing at all in my catchcan. I did not have stock catch can. I am thinking of eliminating the catch can since I don't have any blowby issue after engine rebuild.
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:30 AM   #529
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I always try to separate the crankcase gasses from the intake tract as much as possible. Sure, you may not have oil in your catch can, but what about your intake manifold? This becomes a bigger issue the more power you make.

Running all crankcase vents to a baffled catch can, and then to the intake or exhaust eliminates the chance of oil vapor getting into the combustion chambers. The exhaust offers a bit more velocity to use with a venturi, but the intake is definitely cleaner for the environment (not that 99% of you care, but yeah haha).

Anyway, good info in this thread. This kind of thing is too often overlooked.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:28 PM   #530
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I have a catch can with a filter on it. So, should I even bother routing it into the intake if its already open to the atmosphere?

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Old 03-01-2016, 04:43 PM   #531
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Yes because you want the vacuum source from the intake to pull vacuum to the crank case.


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Old 03-01-2016, 06:12 PM   #532
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A vacuum assisted catch can is more effective than one that is not.
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:31 PM   #533
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Quote:
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Its cause you still have the OEM air/oil separator (black box), but looks like you ditched the stock reducer there too....

It also depends on the track you run... too... I think street wise it will work fine, but if doing tracks with a lot of elevation changes like Northern Cali, then might not work....
Yea I got rid of the little reducer deal, but I also modded the greddy can with a catch baffle in it

And yea Watkins Glen, Palmer, LimeRock, Monticello, VIR (smaller), Summit...all have some pretty pronounced elevation changes overall and in big hills. (but then agian we also have Pocono and NJMP and NHIS wich are like flat tracks haha)

Unsure if it was because the engine was newly rebuilt rings/machine work? But it really seems ti work well the way it's setup
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:00 PM   #534
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Yeah hilly California is a little rougher, the tracks I get issue on has a steeper and more abrupt drop than Laguna Seca. Believe it or not, Laguna doesn't give me issues more than this thunderhill track.

Yeah definitely baffling helps too!

-Ken

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Yea I got rid of the little reducer deal, but I also modded the greddy can with a catch baffle in it

And yea Watkins Glen, Palmer, LimeRock, Monticello, VIR (smaller), Summit...all have some pretty pronounced elevation changes overall and in big hills. (but then agian we also have Pocono and NJMP and NHIS wich are like flat tracks haha)

Unsure if it was because the engine was newly rebuilt rings/machine work? But it really seems ti work well the way it's setup
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Old 03-15-2016, 12:38 PM   #535
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Is the S14 PCV system any different other then the internal baffleing in the VC? I guess the only difference is that instead of the external T, it goes from the back of the VC to the front on the turbo side?

Mine then goes from there to a catch can then to the turbo inlet. I guess I don't have to touch that. What about the PCV side? Does that have a tendency to suck up oil?

I know on my SRT4 (I'm very familiar with the thread posted in the OP) the vast majority of the oil is sucked up from the PCV to the intake manifold and that's where most are running catch cans.
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Old 04-06-2016, 01:16 PM   #536
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Old 04-06-2016, 01:49 PM   #537
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Even though he probably got that for free and fails to mention it. It is a good explanation even if he doesn't go into why it's worse on a DI engine.

The New VWs are horrible about spraying oil into their intakes.
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:57 PM   #538
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The New VWs are horrible about spraying oil into their intakes.
as opposed to old VWs? its all junk!

its the one car make I will absolutely never, ever own. VW = junk cars
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Old 04-07-2016, 10:17 AM   #539
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as opposed to old VWs? its all junk!

its the one car make I will absolutely never, ever own. VW = junk cars
German cars in general are the worst. Literally boggles my mind every time I work on one...

Thats a great video, but there should be one with more information and proof of concept.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:32 AM   #540
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Is the S14 PCV system any different other then the internal baffleing in the VC? I guess the only difference is that instead of the external T, it goes from the back of the VC to the front on the turbo side?

Mine then goes from there to a catch can then to the turbo inlet. I guess I don't have to touch that. What about the PCV side? Does that have a tendency to suck up oil?

I know on my SRT4 (I'm very familiar with the thread posted in the OP) the vast majority of the oil is sucked up from the PCV to the intake manifold and that's where most are running catch cans.
I haven't had any oil in my pcv... I inspect it regularly and don't get much of anything there....
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