adey

It's really not so bad unless you're running super heavy wheels or have bad offset (which might make you rub all over the place). I've done 18*10J front (in positive to negative offsets, Minerva, GT-P, and 17" VF-1R) with a dying PS pump with absolutely no problems on 225/40/18 and 225/45/17.
215/40/18 would probably feel better, but not by much.

Swapping from heavy-ass 3 piece wheels to single piece forged (i.e. LM-GT4 in 9.5j for example) feels like night and day, though.

Edit: to be fair I've never done a track day with 10" fronts, but I imagine it must be harder to maneuver...

Bnr32gtr

Any one kno if Weds Cerberus II lips and weds lxz lips are the same? They look really close but some look sight off. Just what to be 100% cuz to me it looks like it won't work. Thanks for any input.

FaLKoN240

Email VRwheels. They'll know.

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p33g

Long shot here but does anyone have any 18x3.5" lips for Weds cerberus?

ZX88

odd question for those with blitz 03s? Was it difficult to reseat the faces into the lip/barrel. Mine are stock welded barrels and I want to refinish the faces. Do i need to hammer them in to get this to sit flush with the barrell/inner lip?

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theStig880

I had my 03 faces out for a repolish of the lips and I don't recall them being particularly difficult. I lightly tapped the faces with a rubber hammer because it is a tight fit but if you are wailing on it, something is wrong.

To avoid messing up a refinished surface, just get the face close enough for the nuts to thread on the bolts and tighten. That will pull them all the way through if they don't sit flat immediately. If you really don't what to hammer at all and the Blitz hardware is too short, you can grab some longer hardware from Lowes or whatever. Then tighten those and replace them with the Blitz stuff when the face is flush.

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Bnr32gtr

How I do it, have all bolts in and started. Faces level/best as possible and star pattern, I do 3 step your spec tq for bolt size. Painters tape is your friend

integlspwr

Anyone have any tips on removing the old silicone quickly from the barrel when rebuilding vs-xx wheels? Thanks in advance!

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theStig880

I always just use a knife to get the big chunks and a piece of softer steel wool to get the last bit. Removing the old silicone is probably the most labor intensive part when rebuilding any wheels.

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eDmSiL80

use a straight razor blade and bend it around the rim parts. after that you can stand the razor blade straight and scrape with it left to right. worse comes to worse wire wheel.

integlspwr

is there a wheel attachment that I can use that will be faster?

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theStig880

You could use an eraser wheel. Its basically a gum wheel that I've used in the past for removing decals/vinyls. I haven't tried it with the wheel silicone but I'd imagine it would work fairly well.

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integlspwr

everyone has been mentioning this:



but it seems kinda of harsh?

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tb13

So I am looking to have my 18in LMGT2's resized, but since they are not a common wheel none of the major lip makers can easily make me lips/barrels. Who do you guys use when you need oddball custom stuff?



Also, I have been playing around with how I am going to strip my faces. Tried some paint stripper on a set of WORK CR KAI's I have and it seemed to work okay, but left some nasty residue. Is there something else I can do to make the paint stripper more effective? Should I just have the wheels media blasted and save the headache?

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Jefro240

I ran & still own a Powder Coating company... Tal Strip Aircraft Paint Stripper is the only stuff I'll use. Any normal "paint stripper" is trash.

Video I found for ya for example... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKthFTq2XSk

I buy boxes of the aerosol cans. If using the jugs you need to place the object into a sealed container of sorts to allow it all to fume up & eat away @ the paint. Wear a face mask, pants & long sleeves. The shit burns like you wouldn't believe.

Edit... Depending upon how thick the coating is... You will have to eat it away layer by layer etc... Wire Wheel, or Wire Brush & Razor blades work the best. You can use the blade in a holder etc... for the inside barrel & all the flat/straight edges on the spokes. Wire Brush for inbetween the spokes & lug holes etc.

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tb13

I appreciate the info, where can I buy that specific stripper? Google search is showing out of stock everywhere.

I was also wondering if I was going to have to work the finish off with some kind of abrasive, I'll probably grab my 3M roloc wheels and see how they take off the crap still stuck on the wheels.

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Jefro240

Luckily I have old stock since I closed the shop. I called the supplier I bought from after reading your reply & it seems Mar Hyde was bought out by 3M & 3M discontinued the Tal Strip in favor of there own... http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-u...4777160&rt=rud

I've never used the 3M stuff but I will go out on a limb & say it doesn't work simply due to this comment "No harmful fumes-low odor".

In my experience, odor & fumes is what you want or its crap. IE, wicked fumes = its actually eating the coating.

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jaysgottaredtop

3M may not have discontinued it voluntarily, per se. I wouldn't be surprised if all the EPA regulations over that last couple decades have castrated that product market.

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integlspwr

Anyone know where I can get the rubber grommets for the 90degree valve stems ?

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integlspwr

Found the grommets. Last think I had a question on was the tq specs for vsxx face bolts. I've been reading 19 but also up to 29 ft /lbs ?

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z31andrew

NO NO NO dont use this, use a RUBBER wheel, or go to your local tire shop and ask them for an old valve stem, the back has a rubber dome you can use. Just stick the threaded end in a drill and have at it. Be careful, rubber will burn the shit out of your paint if you go too hard or too fast


(^ that's what she said)

joshg51

There's no paint between the lip and barrel, especially since vs-xx is a top mount face wheel. I happen to have bench grinder on it's own stand with a wire wheel attachment that makes effortless to remove the old silicone from lips and barrels.

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Renelovesnike

Edit * never mind, figured it out.

ZX88

I need to replace all the nuts on my blitz 03s. Would any serrated m6x1.0 nut work?

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lewyS14a

I recently acquired some Stich Evolution's and was thinking about getting some new lips for them. There a standard 40 hole affair so not to hard to pick up but i was wondering has anyone else made these wheels wider ? are they welded meaning i have to machine them apart or are they simply silicone joined.

Bnr32gtr

I'm not shore if they are welded or not I have a set of stitch mesh and they were not welded. If they do happen to be welded I'll u need is a cut off wheel and a grinder if u have access to a tire Machine it makes it easyer but it's not needed I've done it with out. Just take your time and cut more onto the old lip side once cut off clean up the barral with a flap disk.

lewyS14a

That gives me hope that there not welded making the job a little easier and sounds like it shouldn't be to hard to sort even if they are welded. Thanks man

Tearlessj

Are equips with lips like this any different or is it just a different style lip? Still a normal face right?

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FaLKoN240

Looks like a 40 hole work face to me.

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Bnr32gtr

They them ddc lips bro they cost more, factory option. Yes same face.