Slidin240Wayz

There are a couple of things to keep in mind when ordering these parts.

Make sure your axles will fit the hubs. Z32 TT hub I.D. is too large.

R33 knuckles are made out of iron but are a direct bolt on for the S14.

R34 knuckles are made out of aluminum and need one of the following in order to use Z32 Shock Mounts:
-Z32 shock bushing (R34 is 50mm wide vs. Z32 being 40mm)
-Or shave down 5mm on each side of the bushing

Some knuckles will be setup for a HICAS equipped car. Call KUAH at SPL and tell him the details and he will supply you with "Nismo Toe Arm Bushings"; 1-866-SPL-PART or www.splparts.com

If you have read the write-up on www.importnut.net, you might be overwhelmed by the rear brake swap, but if you take your time and have fun, you can accomplish it. This write-up will cover two items:
-swapping proper e-brake cables
-installing what is usually referred to "e-brake hardware"

I start with a R34 GTS-t Rear Brake Setup; spindles, hubs, calipers, and cables.







I applied liquid wrench on the bolts and let them sit for 2 nights. I suggest using an impact gun on these bolts.

The larger nut is 27mm
The hub bolts are 19mm
The caliper bolts are 17mm
The e-brake bolt is 12mm

I have removed all the bolts except the large nut.



Once I took it off, I threw it on the scale to see how light an aluminum knuckle actually is.



If you try to unlatch the e-brake cable in the hardware you will find it very difficult to do so. In order to keep everything safe and secure you can just unlatch these springs.





It is going to face the center at first. Take a flathead screwdriver and turn it 90 degrees as so.

From this:



To this:



Once you remove these springs, the hub and e-brake assembly will set it self apart like this.



This is how the e-brake cable is held in place.



Remove the cable end from the bracket and let it hang like this.



To the best of my knowledge, if you have a S13 or S14 spindle, this is the "backing plate" that you need to swap out. The S13 or S14 backing plates do not have the holes for the springs that hold the e-brake assembly in place. This is how the springs work.



Once it is locked in place, the e-brake assembly's movement is restricted.




When you replace the e-brake cable with the new one, stick it through the hole and make sure the spring on the end is setup like this.





Now it is time to tackle the e-brake hardware. There are a couple of springs holding it all together. This is one portion of it.



Here is the other.



I already had taken one spring off. You can use the following method.



It will hang like this and you just have to maneuver it out of its place.



Take this other piece and set it aside with all the other parts.



Once that is taken off, the assembly can be slipped off the hub. Just open the pads and wrap it around the hub.



One of the infamous, rear 5 lug hubs.

***At this point it time, if you have extended rear studs, remove the old ones and install the new ones.***



If you purchase an "e-brake hardware package" make sure it includes all of the following.









If for whatever reason the bottom portion comes apart, you can put it together like this.

Put one spring in on one side, have the middle section in place.



Since it won't reach, just bring the pad closer and lock it in place.



Now the bottom portion is all back together.



In order to put it back together without the backing plate moving all around because of one of the parts, place something underneath it and that will be easier to work on.



Attach the e-brake cable end on the bracket.



Make sure this piece is between the hub and the hardware.



This bracket is side-specific, so make sure you keep everything together. This is the right side assembly, and it is setup the opposite way on the left side.





Place this piece in its place.



Put your springs back in place.





Take needle nose pliers and pull the spring over the part sticking up. Support it by the piece and push it in place.







Almost done.

Now it is time to put the top springs in place. You have to get it in this hole.





Use your fingers to guide it in place.



Once it is in, just use the flathead to push it down.



Push and turn.





VIOLA!

I was always scared of doing this just because I though it would be way too complicated, but guess what? I DID IT and YOU CAN TOO! All you need are the right tools.

If there is any obvious misinformation, please let me know and supply supporting facts and I will make the necessary changes if it is needed.

I have not finished the rest because the knuckles are getting new bushings pressed in and I will get them back on Sunday.

I have to do this whole process one more time because I have to change the wheel studs. It is not as easy to change the wheel studs as the stock S14 spindles. The hardware on the S14 is not in the way to hammer the wheel studs out.

Special thanks to Arthur (AKINASpeedStars) from www.ImportFanatix.com

Wishing you all the best,
Carlos

ps I am in no way responsible for you anything you do because of this.

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