derass

Cool. With those parts you should be up around ~350 WHP at the same boost level.

running_sideways

Just a question...and I'm sure it's probably been said but there's 188 pages. And I apologize but I'm was thinking of buying a gt2871r .64 with a jwt s4. Would that be a good combo I want to do scca and some circuit racing looking for more of a snappy set up and with 350hp potential. I was going to order the gt28 "kit" form enjuku but haven't had much time to do research thanks guys! Just wanna get my build correct

FYI build consists of at the moment
•cp std boar 8:5:1
•manly rods
•acl bearings
•mild port and polish
•Isis headers
•power fc for tuning
•750cc injectors also have 550cc



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ultimateirving

with the mods youve listed, youre there. dont forget a z32 maf
Maybe consider e85 if its available in your area.

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running_sideways

Yes I also have z32. I was seeing what kind of power that head set up would look like on a dyno sheet and see how people like it. I thought I was on the right track but my little town is about three hours away from anyone that even knows what a 240 is let alone a turboed car so I'm limited on guidance...

ultimateirving

Also don't need the cams for 350 hp.

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Bleakley

I have not driven a car with the S3's or S4's, but based on all my searching and others' posts, I'll be going with Nismo 740cc injectors, and JWT S3's w/a GT2871R for best all around performance. The S4's push the power band up higher, but a few people seem to be saying great things about them. Your preference man..

Edit: also... If 350hp is your goal, why build the bottom end at all? If you're going with a Power FC there's a few legit tuners around who will be able to dial that thing in just fine... 2Liter Turbo and a couple others have proven the bottom end can take 350-400hp just fine. So why spend the money...
Drop the Isis/isr header and stick with the stock manifold. Just fine for sub-400hp goals

running_sideways

good im glad im at least on the correct track was second guessing my self. i dropped a valve and it screwed up one of my cam lobes so i figured i might as well drop some money and grab some good ones. i know it says your fine running the oem springs and retainers you think it would also be a good idea to get some stiffer springs or just run oem just for shits and giggles? ive just been able to sit down and do some reading...

derass

As I mentioned in the other thread, S3's or Tomei 260s would be a better match for the 2871. The S4's push the power band even further to the right; they would be getting into their optimal power band as the 2871 is running out of steam. The S4 or Tomei 270 would be a better match for something like a 3076 and 400+whp

As for JWT and stock springs, I know many people in this thread swear by that combination, but I know someone who was doing the same, experienced valve float and blew the motor. If the stock springs still have their original strength, then there is no problem. However, it they are weak or tired, catastrophic valve float can occur.

It is for that reason that I would personally choose a set of Tomei ProCams and upgraded springs over JWT and stock springs, as both combinations are around the same cost.

running_sideways

...i wish that was the case when i dropped a valve it put a hole in my piston about the size of a dime...surprisingly my block was mint cross hatches still looked like new and the machine shop said it looks as if the engine maybe had 40k still dont under stand why it dropped a valve guide and then the valve but its fixed now...so sense i was in there lets BLOW SOME MONEY

running_sideways

i dont wanna start an all out brawl on here but tomei procams or jwt...pros cons on reliability? i appreciate all the help

derass

IMO, the two have similar performance. However, with JWT you are rolling the dice based on the condition of your stock valve springs whereas the Tomei combination offers some peace of mind.

running_sideways

ive heard that the jwt cams are pretty much dialed in so you don't need a slotted cam sprocket for getting set to the gnats ass. is tomei pretty much the same way? or you think it would be best to grab a set of those too?

derass

From what I understand, both the Tomei and HKS are degreed well from the factory. I would not bother with adjustable sprockets. I'm sure there is some improvement to be had; but for me, the cost of tuning vs benefit is not worth it. It's the BC cams that are poorly degreed and should be avoided.

running_sideways

right on man about 5 years ago bc was what everyone wanted now its like they fell off the earth laded in a pile of sheet...thats for your guys advice! i think im going to go with the tomei and springs. think solid lifter or hydro? it sounds like a bish to get the solid lifters and set clearances...if only they had a set screw and a jam nut to adjust the clearances id be ok but them damn pills

derass

It's a trade-off: solid lifters will not collapse at sustained high engine speeds but require regular adjustment that, like you said, is more difficult on the SR than a Honda B-Series for example. For a typical street car / weekend warrior, hydraulic is sufficient.

running_sideways

so this would be the set up you basically run read quite a bit and everyone seems to like that combo if so they'er ordered lol

http://www.tf-works.com/products/Tom...3-SR20DET.html

and some

http://www.tf-works.com/tomei-valve-...issan-sr20det/

Bleakley

Ahh dude, that sucks! Makes sense though..

I've heard so many good things about JWT cams.
I have also heard good things about Tomei's cams. I do not post a crapload, but holy shit do I do a lot of reading..
Go with what makes you feel good and comfortable I guess. Lol. Seems like you can't go wrong with JWT or Tomei. I've set made my choice and I'll be running JWT.
Also! Dude, I would always recommend a set of adjustable sprockets to make sure you're right on the money. They're not that much and you're already in there...

I remember my father setting up solid lifters on his chevelle. Man did that seem tedious as f***. But DAMN was that thing nasty!

codyace

Just attending some older comments in order to keep this thread going.

You don't *need* cams, but you can get to that power level MUCH easier than without. Less boost = less stress = happier engine. Plus 350 whp with cams offers a MUCH better powerband than 350 whp with stock cams.

[QUOTE=derass;6040910]As I mentioned in the other thread, S3's or Tomei 260s would be a better match for the 2871. The S4's push the power band even further to the right; they would be getting into their optimal power band as the 2871 is running out of steam. The S4 or Tomei 270 would be a better match for something like a 3076 and 400+whp

Having now run both extensivly, I'd suggest it in this way

S3's for a nice daily driver - great torque, a little better response, yet still power to redline

S4's for a track oriented/higher RPM setup. While they still respond well, they really have that 5000+ shine, which in my case on track is where I'm at most of the time as it is. (5000 to 8000 rpm)

That's with anything on these cars though, obviously not the fault of the cam. And with that said, to find a wore out set is VERY uncommon. The stock spring seat pressure is very low, and with a relatively easy valvetrain (abuse wise) you don't come across them failing or weakning that often...but with these things, not all metal is the same, so you can't rule out anything!

One thing I am a fan of though, is using JWT springs with JWT cams, and or Tomei Springs with Tomei Cams, etc etc. Not to say you can't mix and match, but at least yo uknow with those two examples, that JWT/Tomei tested their springs with their cams, and know how they react.

With it all considered, the JWT still make a nicer powerband, but i'd take JWT or Tomei over HKS any day.


In the *ultimate* setup, where people have a way to to replicate a good lash (aka: solid lifters), then I'd agree cam gears are the ultimate way to go, albiet through testing. In the real world, the JWT/Tomei/HKS work awesome installed as OEM. Could you maybe get 5 more whp? could you maybe get 3-4 more hp average? Sure...but at what cost of dyno time and parts (for a street car)



Solid is overkill for 99% of SR20 owners

Run newer B15 Roller Rocker Lifters, run dual guides, and call it a day. 8500 rpm with aftermarket springs no worries.

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running_sideways

[QUOTE=codyace;6041635]Just attending some older comments in order to keep this thread going.







You don't *need* cams, but you can get to that power level MUCH easier than without. Less boost = less stress = happier engine. Plus 350 whp with cams offers a MUCH better powerband than 350 whp with stock cams.





You wouldn't happen to have a part number for those b15 roller lifters and dual guides? I think I'm going to be going with tomei 260 with springs.

mewantkouki

Is anyone using the newer HKS step 1's? 22002-AN023 & 22002-AN024

256 deg duration 11.5mm lift for both
I'm not sure of the lobe separation.
Intake cam is VTC compatible

mewantkouki

Dual guide mod is just running rocker guides on both sides of a modified rocker arm. Need to machine rocker to fit into the guide groove.

running_sideways

Quite interesting have a good wright up? I could show my machine shop

Tyler_240

I just did the dual guide conversion...buy 8 new valve guides and have the machine shop take a bit of material off the rocker arm so it sits flush

mazworx will do the machine work if you're worried about getting it right, that's who did mine and they dropped in and i have had zero issues after about 1000 miles and i've driven my car hard...i dont bounce it off the rev limiter, but i have taken it past 7500+rpms w/ zero issues. I also removed the rocker arm stoppers when i did the conversion.

this was on stock springs/retainers/cams so the new guides dropped right in.

running_sideways

I have another question has anyone used this the gt2871r kit from enjuku racing


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Dboyizmlg

^^^ seems like that's the 52 trim version of the 2871r, in addition with the ISIS manifold and lines they sell it with in the kit.

I have that turbo it's good.
But I'm not sure I would recommend to get the ISIS exhaust manifold. Might crack faster than other manifolds making you do more labor on your car more frequently.

Just my opinion though

Dboyizmlg

This can be done at home if you have the proper wheel grinder.
Really simple mod to do your self

Tyler_240

My motor came with an ISIS exh mani and i have all of thhe exh hangers and it has not cracked yet....i wrapped it up in some DEI titanium and have nismo mounts...the problem i have with the manifold are the way the runners merge at the collector..i noticed other more popular bottom mounts have what seems to be better r&d...i would use the stock manifold personally...the bottom mount tubulars put off alot of heat and the coupler going to the compressor outlet will get damaged if you dont at least wrap the manifold or route your IC piping differently...

TomBec

running_sideways

...enjuku racing is kinda fucked up...check this out i asked him for a full parts list with part number for they'er "kit" for 1749.00. i looked up all the parts for what he sent me but except the v2 isis manifold i replaced that with the tomei mani and it came up to 1874.00

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running_sideways

everything i added up

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