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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 12-10-2014, 07:32 AM   #31
Darius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dftsilvia View Post
n1 pumps break just as easy as the stockers. best bet is to just rebuild the stocker with spool gears.
and how is dropping 1500 on an oil pump overkill?? its supplys youre engine with oil, which is kind of important. worth the money if u ask me comsidering the oiling system is one of the downfalls of the rb engine
You can go ahead and put a Nitto, JUN, or Tomei oil pump on any short nose crank and watch it shell out along with your $1,500. The gears only shell out if you are drastically increasing rpm, which the stock valve train can't handle anyways. Spoon gears can help but if there is a fatal design flaw, I can only imagine that they'll strip out and/or break as well.

A critical step to RB oil pump install is to double check that the screws on the back are loc-tited in place so they won't back out with engine vibration. I made sure to do that a long time ago and the pump has never had a problem. My N1 pump has lasted 12+ years of abuse with an 8500 rpm redline on an extended crank collar.

And smoked240 is right. If you are going to put $1500 into an oil pump, it better be a dry sump system.
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:39 PM   #32
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guess I just look at it the complete opposite. it cost wayyyy more money that 1500 to go dry sump so that doesn't make sense. in the end, if you don't do things right the first time any engine will break. no matter if you have 5k or 50k in it. attention to detail as you said by checking the screws for Loctite to me is what makes engines last. your attention to detail and maintenance is prolly why your engine has taken so much abuse and is still good.
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