Missing and Stalling at idle.I've Spent 2,000$+trying to fix. Its Cursed HELP! - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

redsx13 · 01-09-2009, 01:18 PM

Ok so here is the deal-
After spending thousands of dollars trying to fix my SR i really need some advice on what my problem could be, I am completely out of Money, so i need to get this thing running myself.

Rundown, I'll keep it brief-
-Motor is stock redtop sr, car is 93 240sx
-Motor has never run correctly after swap
-Like the post says, Motor seems to miss-fire at idle (mechanic says its running very rich),
-In the higher RPM's, car runs smoothly, but also lacks power.
-After a drive, it will stall at idle, but then start up and and idle again (still misfires)

What has been done- (if you think its something i checked, ill check it again)
-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greddy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
I have been to two shops, both can't figure it out, One shop hooked up a power fc and got it running pretty well like that. (should i just consider going this wrought)

The only other thing i could think of is the harness, but i dont really want throw any more money down the drain.
I will take any Ideas at all!

Hawaiian240 · 01-11-2009, 08:26 AM

If the Power FC ran the car well, I don't think it's the harness. Maybe the ECU has a bad tune or something. Are there any indications that the ECU may have been modified?

*fliprayzin240sx* · 01-11-2009, 11:34 AM

You checked how good the spark is? Could be a bad igniter chip...or going bad.

Also, spark plugs...what are they exactly and whats the gap?

S14Cuhh · 01-11-2009, 12:26 PM

before a replaced my bad water pump..id clutch in, and the car would idle so low it would die..replaceing the waterpump and belts fixed it right up..it was a KADE , n/a setup..but your issue sounds similar

Silverstreek · 01-11-2009, 01:56 PM

i don't really know anything about sr20's, but have you checked things like fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, pcv, iacv, coil(s) (the sr's c.o.p. isn't it?), ect.
have you done a fuel system test or a vacuum test? i see you said checked for vacuum leaks, but not sure if that was just looking around for disconnected hoses or if you meant actually hooking up a vacuum gauge to the car and doing a test.
did you check fuel pressure, fuel pressure leak down, voltage at the fuel pump, ect?

Hawaiian240 · 01-11-2009, 02:37 PM

But why would it run well with the Power FC hooked up??? Does the Power FC fix all the problems? I don't think so.

Sileighty_85 · 01-11-2009, 03:13 PM

Have you tried swapping another SR ECU into it? If droppin in the PFC made it run good then i would lean toward your ECU being bad.

I had a similar issue once, My ECU came unbolted from the chassis and it ran rich and misfired. I replaced the plugs No change, but as soon as i grounded the ECU back to the chassis it ran fine again.

P.S. Its spelled GReddy

Ghost05 · 01-11-2009, 10:25 PM

Have you checked the ignition timing? sounds like you might be off a tooth. A friend of mine had the same problem with his.

redsx13 · 01-13-2009, 12:48 AM

Ok, i have been working on this problem day and night, in finally able to take a break and use the computer.

-fliprayzin240sx, i got around to replacing that ignitor chip, but it still runs the same

-Silverstreek, those are some very good ideas, i checked the Fuel pressure regulator, but i did not check voltage at the fuelpump reason being, the car ran fine with the ka. As far as vaccum leaks, in not really sure what was done, the shop did that one.

-Hawaiian240, you hit it on the nose, the shop i brought it to said that they got it running good with the power FC, but when i herd it in person the thing still sounded like CRAP!

-Sileighty_85, GREDDY!, ya i know lol i spelled it wrong. the ecu is fine, the shop swapped in a stock working ecu and it still did the same thing.

-Ghost05, i will check the timing chain tomorrow

Thankyou for all your responeses

As well as what was mentioned above, i have also...

-checked ignitor
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-pulled apart entire engine harness, traced backed every wire and checked with ohm meter (all good)
-had power fc tuned, it does not fix problems.
-re-checked maf
-checked fuel pressure regulator

p4hang · 01-15-2009, 10:58 PM

I had the same problem with my sr when i swapped it in. I checked the timing chain again and again, because in my mind it was a timing problem. Took me about two months of seriously knowing my whole car in and out. Bottom line is that it was because my CAS wasnt on correctly and it wasnt the timing chain.
Hope that helps.

redsx13 · 01-19-2009, 12:33 PM

*****update******

Ok, i got some free time so i decided to try some more things on my 240.
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-installed Power FC D-Jetro still nothing!

this car is a pain in the ass!!!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by p4hang

I had the same problem with my sr when i swapped it in. I checked the timing chain again and again, because in my mind it was a timing problem. Took me about two months of seriously knowing my whole car in and out. Bottom line is that it was because my CAS wasnt on correctly and it wasnt the timing chain.
Hope that helps.

well, like i said, a shop checked it out. they also said that they set the timing. maybe they missed somthing?

UNISA JECS · 01-19-2009, 01:01 PM

You know when you wire in a SR20DET the check engine light does not work, you need to add a wire to get the MIL light to work.

redsx13 · 01-21-2009, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

You know when you wire in a SR20DET the check engine light does not work, you need to add a wire to get the MIL light to work.

There where no codes on the ECU, so even if it had i MIL it would not be on.

just to give you guys a better update on whats going on with the car, here is an up to date list on what i have done so far...

-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checkes fuel pressure regulator
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are fireing
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

**here are the symptoms i still have**

-lopey idle (very very rough, whole car shakes, it actually broke one of my new autometer gages)
-missing at idle
-low boost 5psi max
-low vacuum
-almost stalls after revving
-lack of power

and here is a strange fact, when i checked for boost leaks, there where no leaks in the piping, but alot of air did come out of PCV. (the T fitting in the valve cover)

Tan-R · 01-23-2009, 08:10 AM

Have you checked your altenator? i have had problems like this with my car and it seems to be something with the altenator... have it tested just a suggestion

redsx13 · 01-23-2009, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tan-R

Have you checked your altenator? i have had problems like this with my car and it seems to be something with the altenator... have it tested just a suggestion

the shop said that they checked it, and i dont really have any battery issues. how do i check it? I cant take it off and bring it somewhere because the bolt in the tensioner bolt is really rusted on, and i dont want to go through a ton of work to pull the thing off if it is not whats doing it. cant i just start the car, pull the battery out while its running, and use a volt meter to check the output voltage of the battery? I think it should be like 14 volts of somthing like that.right?

BustedS13 · 01-23-2009, 09:43 PM

you've spent two grand having a mechanic poke at your engine?
your parents must hate you

Sileighty_85 · 01-23-2009, 10:42 PM

well the only think i could think of is its gonna be Mechanical Timing you said you checked the Cams but not the crank

Maybe look into pulling the from cover off and checking the all three dots.

xcye12 · 01-28-2009, 02:15 PM

Did you check the CAM sensor?

Quote:

Originally Posted by redsx13

There where no codes on the ECU, so even if it had i MIL it would not be on.

just to give you guys a better update on whats going on with the car, here is an up to date list on what i have done so far...

-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checkes fuel pressure regulator
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are fireing
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

**here are the symptoms i still have**

-lopey idle (very very rough, whole car shakes, it actually broke one of my new autometer gages)
-missing at idle
-low boost 5psi max
-low vacuum
-almost stalls after revving
-lack of power

and here is a strange fact, when i checked for boost leaks, there where no leaks in the piping, but alot of air did come out of PCV. (the T fitting in the valve cover)

redsx13 · 01-28-2009, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xcye12

Did you check the CAM sensor?

I was told that if the cam angle sensor was bad the car wouldn't even run.

ANVIL · 01-30-2009, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redsx13

I was told that if the cam angle sensor was bad the car wouldn't even run.

not always the case. if its on its way out it can cause misfires, runing rough and whatever else symptoms from the timing being off. test with a known working one

sdrmiami · 01-31-2009, 06:44 PM

CAS will still work when bad. i recommend you replace it and im pretty sure that will fix you up. ive installed a few swaps that had a simular problem and swapped out the CAS and problem fixxed. email me if you have any questions i will be happy to help.

esqueue · 02-13-2009, 01:44 AM

Are you guys serious? Will it also make it hard to time a vehicle? I have the messed up idle and the occasional stalling after after stopping. I did get a code 11 once but after a reset it never came back.

esqueue · 02-13-2009, 08:12 PM

In my situation, the cams were off.

redsx13 · 02-13-2009, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdrmiami

CAS will still work when bad. i recommend you replace it and im pretty sure that will fix you up. ive installed a few swaps that had a simular problem and swapped out the CAS and problem fixxed. email me if you have any questions i will be happy to help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ANVIL

not always the case. if its on its way out it can cause misfires, runing rough and whatever else symptoms from the timing being off. test with a known working one

dude, that is soo crazy, i actually took the cap of my cas yesterday and the wheel was bent!!! I tried to bend it back, but it seems like it actually got worse, im buying a used cas as soon as i can find one, and i am also replacing the wiring harness, i will update you all soon!

does anyone know where a good place to find one is, i really dont want to shell out 300$ for a new one, and i dont have any friends withs srs that would let me barrow one.

Locko · 02-14-2009, 09:51 AM

well man i had the same problem and it eneded up being a soldering on the sr wiring harness that got loose check my thread
http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/238640-sr-swap-wont-go-over-2000rpm.html

Big Zee · 02-14-2009, 11:07 AM

if you grab a new one, at least you know it'll work and won;t be a expensive peice of used...

georgesal · 02-21-2009, 11:53 PM

have you done a cylinder leakage test, and are you sure the timing chain isnt off one tooth. what did they fo with the pwer fc to get it to run better(as fas as tune)

kalypso123 · 02-22-2009, 01:58 AM

im betting on the CAS... still dont know why the standalone worked fine.

Landers · 02-22-2009, 08:22 AM

Just wondersing but did you get no codes or code 55? If you got nothing then something is up wih the ecu, Code 55 means no faults.

But i am betting that it is the CAS.

*handinpants* · 02-22-2009, 10:13 PM

Solder in a consult cable to your ecu, grab a snapon Mt2500 set it to generic vehicle, and look at what's going on

01-09-2009, 01:18 PM	#1
redsx13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Agoura Hills, Ca Age: 31 Posts: 572 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Missing and Stalling at idle.I've Spent 2,000$+trying to fix. Its Cursed HELP! Ok so here is the deal- After spending thousands of dollars trying to fix my SR i really need some advice on what my problem could be, I am completely out of Money, so i need to get this thing running myself. Rundown, I'll keep it brief- -Motor is stock redtop sr, car is 93 240sx -Motor has never run correctly after swap -Like the post says, Motor seems to miss-fire at idle (mechanic says its running very rich), -In the higher RPM's, car runs smoothly, but also lacks power. -After a drive, it will stall at idle, but then start up and and idle again (still misfires) What has been done- (if you think its something i checked, ill check it again) -No codes on ECU -replaced TPS (bad) -replaced MAF (bad) -replaced injectors -replaced ecu -replaced coolant temp sensor -replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium) -checked for boost leaks -checked for vaccum leaks -checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations) -checked timing -checked grounds -checked power and grounds on ecu plug -checked Greddy Bov (closed all the way) -checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth) -checked compression (150psi x4) I have been to two shops, both can't figure it out, One shop hooked up a power fc and got it running pretty well like that. (should i just consider going this wrought) The only other thing i could think of is the harness, but i dont really want throw any more money down the drain. I will take any Ideas at all! Last edited by redsx13; 01-13-2009 at 12:50 AM..

01-11-2009, 08:26 AM	#2
Hawaiian240 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Chesapeake, VA Age: 48 Posts: 517 Trader Rating: (17) Rides Gallery: Hawaiian240 Feedback Score: 17 reviews	If the Power FC ran the car well, I don't think it's the harness. Maybe the ECU has a bad tune or something. Are there any indications that the ECU may have been modified? __________________ For Sale threads: http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/33286...tons-pics.html Review Thread: http://zilvia.net/f/private-sellers/...-chhheeee.html TRADER RATING: http://zilvia.net/f/traderratings.html?u=66301 Last edited by Hawaiian240; 01-11-2009 at 07:50 PM..

01-11-2009, 11:34 AM	#3
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	You checked how good the spark is? Could be a bad igniter chip...or going bad. Also, spark plugs...what are they exactly and whats the gap? __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

01-11-2009, 02:37 PM	#6
Hawaiian240 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Chesapeake, VA Age: 48 Posts: 517 Trader Rating: (17) Rides Gallery: Hawaiian240 Feedback Score: 17 reviews	But why would it run well with the Power FC hooked up??? Does the Power FC fix all the problems? I don't think so. __________________ For Sale threads: http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/33286...tons-pics.html Review Thread: http://zilvia.net/f/private-sellers/...-chhheeee.html TRADER RATING: http://zilvia.net/f/traderratings.html?u=66301

01-11-2009, 03:13 PM	#7
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Have you tried swapping another SR ECU into it? If droppin in the PFC made it run good then i would lean toward your ECU being bad. I had a similar issue once, My ECU came unbolted from the chassis and it ran rich and misfired. I replaced the plugs No change, but as soon as i grounded the ECU back to the chassis it ran fine again. P.S. Its spelled GReddy __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

01-11-2009, 12:26 PM	#4
S14Cuhh Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: 562 Posts: 1,365 Trader Rating: (23) Feedback Score: 23 reviews	before a replaced my bad water pump..id clutch in, and the car would idle so low it would die..replaceing the waterpump and belts fixed it right up..it was a KADE , n/a setup..but your issue sounds similar

01-11-2009, 01:56 PM	#5
Silverstreek Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kadena AB, Okinawa Japan Age: 39 Posts: 163 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: Silverstreek Feedback Score: 4 reviews	i don't really know anything about sr20's, but have you checked things like fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, pcv, iacv, coil(s) (the sr's c.o.p. isn't it?), ect. have you done a fuel system test or a vacuum test? i see you said checked for vacuum leaks, but not sure if that was just looking around for disconnected hoses or if you meant actually hooking up a vacuum gauge to the car and doing a test. did you check fuel pressure, fuel pressure leak down, voltage at the fuel pump, ect?

01-11-2009, 10:25 PM	#8
Ghost05 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sacramento Age: 32 Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Have you checked the ignition timing? sounds like you might be off a tooth. A friend of mine had the same problem with his.

01-13-2009, 12:48 AM	#9
redsx13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Agoura Hills, Ca Age: 31 Posts: 572 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Ok, i have been working on this problem day and night, in finally able to take a break and use the computer. -fliprayzin240sx, i got around to replacing that ignitor chip, but it still runs the same -Silverstreek, those are some very good ideas, i checked the Fuel pressure regulator, but i did not check voltage at the fuelpump reason being, the car ran fine with the ka. As far as vaccum leaks, in not really sure what was done, the shop did that one. -Hawaiian240, you hit it on the nose, the shop i brought it to said that they got it running good with the power FC, but when i herd it in person the thing still sounded like CRAP! -Sileighty_85, GREDDY!, ya i know lol i spelled it wrong. the ecu is fine, the shop swapped in a stock working ecu and it still did the same thing. -Ghost05, i will check the timing chain tomorrow Thankyou for all your responeses As well as what was mentioned above, i have also... -checked ignitor -checked coil packs -checked coil pack harness -pulled apart entire engine harness, traced backed every wire and checked with ohm meter (all good) -had power fc tuned, it does not fix problems. -re-checked maf -checked fuel pressure regulator

01-15-2009, 10:58 PM	#10
p4hang Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Michigan Age: 34 Posts: 53 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I had the same problem with my sr when i swapped it in. I checked the timing chain again and again, because in my mind it was a timing problem. Took me about two months of seriously knowing my whole car in and out. Bottom line is that it was because my CAS wasnt on correctly and it wasnt the timing chain. Hope that helps.

01-19-2009, 01:01 PM	#12
UNISA JECS Nissanaholic! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Socal Fontana Age: 42 Posts: 2,372 Trader Rating: (40) Feedback Score: 40 reviews	You know when you wire in a SR20DET the check engine light does not work, you need to add a wire to get the MIL light to work. __________________ PARTS 4 SALE !! Z32 E-Brake/Parking Brake Heatshield Assemblys!!! *Rep/Feedbacks*

01-23-2009, 08:10 AM	#14
Tan-R Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rapid City SD Age: 30 Posts: 55 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Have you checked your altenator? i have had problems like this with my car and it seems to be something with the altenator... have it tested just a suggestion

01-23-2009, 09:43 PM	#16
BustedS13 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Phoenix AZ Age: 36 Posts: 10,287 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	you've spent two grand having a mechanic poke at your engine? your parents must hate you __________________

01-23-2009, 10:42 PM	#17
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	well the only think i could think of is its gonna be Mechanical Timing you said you checked the Cams but not the crank Maybe look into pulling the from cover off and checking the all three dots. __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

01-31-2009, 06:44 PM	#21
sdrmiami Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Fl Age: 43 Posts: 518 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	CAS will still work when bad. i recommend you replace it and im pretty sure that will fix you up. ive installed a few swaps that had a simular problem and swapped out the CAS and problem fixxed. email me if you have any questions i will be happy to help.

02-13-2009, 01:44 AM	#22
esqueue Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Long Beach, CA Age: 40 Posts: 53 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Are you guys serious? Will it also make it hard to time a vehicle? I have the messed up idle and the occasional stalling after after stopping. I did get a code 11 once but after a reset it never came back.

02-13-2009, 08:12 PM	#23
esqueue Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Long Beach, CA Age: 40 Posts: 53 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	In my situation, the cams were off.

02-14-2009, 09:51 AM	#25
Locko Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Miami FL Age: 39 Posts: 92 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	well man i had the same problem and it eneded up being a soldering on the sr wiring harness that got loose check my thread http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/238640-sr-swap-wont-go-over-2000rpm.html

02-14-2009, 11:07 AM	#26
Big Zee Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: BC Age: 37 Posts: 860 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	if you grab a new one, at least you know it'll work and won;t be a expensive peice of used...

02-21-2009, 11:53 PM	#27
georgesal BANNED Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Los Angeles Age: 36 Posts: 842 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	have you done a cylinder leakage test, and are you sure the timing chain isnt off one tooth. what did they fo with the pwer fc to get it to run better(as fas as tune)

02-22-2009, 01:58 AM	#28
kalypso123 (ノಠ益ಠ)ノ彡 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: New York, NY Posts: 2,853 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	im betting on the CAS... still dont know why the standalone worked fine.

02-22-2009, 08:22 AM	#29
Landers Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: W Mass. Age: 33 Posts: 561 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: Landers Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Just wondersing but did you get no codes or code 55? If you got nothing then something is up wih the ecu, Code 55 means no faults. But i am betting that it is the CAS. __________________ d-faction.com

02-22-2009, 10:13 PM	#30
handinpants FreshColdBeer.com Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: California Age: 38 Posts: 2,665 Trader Rating: (48) Rides Gallery: handinpants Feedback Score: 48 reviews	Solder in a consult cable to your ecu, grab a snapon Mt2500 set it to generic vehicle, and look at what's going on __________________

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