kane01

Headlights and blower motor hammer the crap out of my KA. AFRs go to 10 and i can throttle through it, but almost wants to stall out if im idling. I can see my fast idle try to fight it off and it winds up developing a surge from about 750ish to about 1200. Normal idle for me is about 940ish. AFRs hit 10 when cooling fan comes on too, but don't seem to rob as much power as the lights or blower motor. Previous owner did battery relocate to trunk with 4 gauge not 0. Could be that it simply has a choke point on my amp draw from the 4 wire. Anybody dealing with eletrical load issues? Anybody tell me its a bad Oring and i punch yo face sucka.

From your moms basement / using hacked rotary phone

OnTheChip

It might be the IACV is clogged/sticking and not letting enough air in to keep the idle speed steady.

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NismotronicSA - Speed-Density Tuning for Nissans

kane01

IACV/FICV is brand new and the problem has persisted through all the other issues that i have solved. I have read that people are having no problems with running 4 gauge on battery relocate. What I'm wondering is do i want to waste $60 on 20 ft of 1/0 welding cable. The guy i bought it from had alot of things wrong. No wastegate seal so that i could'nt tell the turbo was junk. SAFC2 trying to clean up the 39% more fuel it was getting with no tune on the ecu. Junk injectors and a MAF big enough to run a cummins. Spent all winter in my driveway freezing my sack off. Got a tune from Enthalpy (after emance ripped me off for $450). Fixxed 2 exhaust leaks and stripped the intake off to double check egr and evap delete, everything checked out. I am now running N/A till i can find the good S15 turbo. I think it is the 4 gauge wire or the decel settings on the SAFC2, but im not sure if the decel does anything with idle once the rpms are resting. Gonna try to find someone with S14 battery relocate done and working fine to compare a couple things like wire placement and grounding under the hood. Oh well, maybe baby jesus don't want me cruising at night or in bad weather. GOOD LOOKN OUT BABY JESUS !!

kane01

Ordered everything I need to redo my 4 gauge aluminum with 1/0 gauge fine strand, copper welding cable. Not bad, all of it was less than $100 Pretty excited about getting to the bottom of this wire gauge shit. Only thing missing in the equation is a bigger power block for engine bay to accomadate 1/0 wire.

kane01

Talked to masterful Martin at Enthalpy to make sure it was not the S13 ecu not playing nice with my S14. First thing he mentions is a specific wire that carries the electrical load signal to the ecu. Naturally i looked at my pinout and there is obviously nothing labeled electrical load signal. That would be too easy, so i have been digging and it seems like it is probably a secondary use on a wire thats primarily used and labeled for something else. Since the only thing i can think of is my safc 2, as far as aftermarket thats attached to the harness for power, i will completely disconnect it to see if it does the trick. Worked on the car all winter trying to solve the rich problem with the safc, connecting and disconnecting mafs, but never completely disconnected safc because i liked having all the gauges it offers. Since i remeber turning on my blower motor back then to make my afrs come down when they were lean from over correction. If anybody has had an safc affect electrical load negatively because of using wrong wire to power it now would be a great time to chime in. I'll just go ahead and hold my breath.

kane01

Can't really make an educated guess considering it's an S13 SR20 ecu with a harness adapter to a 95 S14 KA. I have no idea what has to be changed in the ecu to make it compatible. Martin said there could be an issue with electronic enrichment circuit. Cut the wire he told me to cut and nothing changed. It has to be one specific thing that ties accessory electrical load together. Whether bit's a signal wire or a relay or a freakn diode or something that i'm overlooking. Wierd as shit that everything else seems to be fine.

kane01

Wow, rewind everything. I have periodically reworded my electrical load issue about 20 times and tried once again approaching it from the symptom angle and presto. A freakn canadian GT-R forum pops up and my symptoms (exactly) are in the first paragraph. Turn on the a/c and idle drops, has a little hunting action and some light vibration. I put a new IACV/FICD on recently to fix vac leaks on it, it never dawned on me to check the connector and wiring since my idle issue cleared up immediately. Didn't need a/c or heater so never used blower motor to trigger the fast idle side of the valve. For some reason the coolant fan does not pull it down as bad so i figured fast idle was fine. Not sure if the plug is bad or a cut in the wire and supposedly there's a freakn diode somewhere in this circuit. Sounds like it's what my problem is though. You guys can't see it, but this is me being pretty disgusted that this came from a canadian forum.
Tomorrow is my birthday and I already had a poly subframe bushing project planned, but now it's gonna be a real party.

Kingtal0n

If the a/f changes significantly just by turning on headlights or engaging the A/C or other electrical devices, it could be the injector lag time, since that is based on voltage.

kane01

Can't leave without telling all of the 2 people that posted(thanks by the way), insufficient grounding in the engine bay was the culprit. Added a couple of #4 gauge amp wire grounds, one on each side and WHAMO!!!! Started better, idled better, all accessories have little or no affect on idle and no affect on afrs at all. I want to thank you all for coming and good night.

OnTheChip

Good to know! Glad you found it.

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NismotronicSA - Speed-Density Tuning for Nissans