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Old 11-13-2008, 04:22 AM   #1021
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Haha I'm cool with people thinking my name's Jordan. Or just GSXR (pronounced "gixxer" btw).

As far as 'glassing parts - if you're just making one, start with a balsa wood core and lay down a coat of resin, then lay a fiberglass mat down over both sides as flat as you can, and resin that. Good luck not getting resin anywhere.

Then the next day, start sanding it down. It'll take forever. Fill in with bondo if necessary, and resand. Then you'll have a splitter
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Old 11-19-2008, 01:46 AM   #1022
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Ahhh.... my never ending build

enjoy...



p/s res re-located


v-mount status



wiring





s14 dash test fit with safety 21 cage


ksport hydraulic ebrake install and e-brake relocated to passenger side



fabbed up a new exhaust
3 inch to dual 3.5 inch tips
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:12 AM   #1023
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Looks good!

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Ahhh.... my never ending build

enjoy...
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:01 AM   #1024
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I own a fab/speed shop. This is just some of the work iv done on my own Ka-T setup, a few small things. Also did a 3 inch DP on a 5 bolt Garrett flange, a custom midpipe and custom IC pipes.

Heres a few pics of the aluminum catch can as i brought it into life. We have a bunch of aluminum sheets, and square tubing that we got at a sweet deal from a Verizon auction. We stole it from them really.. You can see in the second picture me drilling out the holes for the aluminum fittings i picked up from McMaster. I used a lathe to take off 90 percent of the threads, then just welded the fittings in there. I also tacked a piece of thin aluminum to the inside of the can, to act as a oil condenser. Its welded as a divider between the two tube fittings. It basically prevents the majority of oil vapor from getting back into my charge air.(IC pipes, turbo, IC, ect)





And the money shot..


----

Had to figure out some way to mount the turbo oil filter, and ended up with a nice solution. I used some 1/8th inch aluminum stock and made a plate that bolts up to where my AC bracket should be. I wanted to use our mill but we dont have the tooling for it yet, really frustrating. So i just used the drill press. My original plan was to use worm drive clamps to attach the plate to the filter, but that plan got derailed.. lol dont ask. I didnt have any extra T-bolts or anything so i just used zip ties for now. Should hold long enough for me to get a new plate water jetted(sounds way more expensive than it really is) out and fab a real bracket to hold the filter. Still, the result was pretty sweet, im happy with the way it came out. Heres a few pics.

The plate itself



Block with the plate + filter. I know in that pic it looks like the oil line is going where the MM has to go, but theres enough line there to move it away so its not a problem.



Filter



----

So im running a N/A Ka with a turbo manifold, downpipe, three inch exhaust complete with cat and resonator. Made a block off plate to put on my turbine manifold, and sealed it with Rutland Black gasket maker. So far its holding great, couldnt be any happier with the way it turned out. This way, you can break in a turbo engine N/A and when you go to add the turbo charger all you have to do is slap in the cartridge, add your oil lines and your set. My oil lines are capped off at the moment.

Heres the plate that i made with auto cad software then had water jetted out.



The end result.

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Old 11-19-2008, 11:11 AM   #1025
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^^^ I always wondered about breaking in an engine N/A - but from my race bike experience, I've always held that it's best to break it in under the conditions it's designed to run at - not saying to run 100% right out of the gate, but that you're not generating cylinder pressures anywhere near where it's going to run once the turbo's on, so really you're wasting the break in period.

By the time you slap the turbo on there, the rings have already mated to the walls (and the lands), and you're "breaking it in" again because you're doubling (or tripling) the cylinder pressures those parts are dealing with - except now they're already 'set'.

I dunno, we always broke race bikes in on the dyno or on the track (but these have much tighter tolerances I'm guessing), and the bikes that I've owned/raced have always dyno'd higher and consumed less oil than bikes broken in "conventionally".

Discuss?
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Old 11-19-2008, 01:12 PM   #1026
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It doesn't matter how the rings seals turbo or no turbo boost it happens within the 1st hour of running an engine, so the engine should be heavy footed.


Where is the exhaust exiting the waste gate?

I did the same thing except with an internal waste gate I took the actuator arm off.

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Old 11-19-2008, 02:35 PM   #1027
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It doesn't matter how the rings seals turbo or no turbo boost it happens within the 1st hour of running an engine, so the engine should be heavy footed.


Where is the exhaust exiting the waste gate?

I did the same thing except with an internal waste gate I took the actuator arm off.

psstt... downpipe.
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:31 PM   #1028
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I thought I'd post up this nice customer car we're doing a little fabrication on. We installed the AIM dash, a new K27 and a programmable cold start injector/warm up regulator and tuned it. For fabrication I made a new short pipe for the exhaust and JRZs are going in to take the place of the torsion arms/bilsteins. The rear shock towers now have to take all the load and required some reinforcement. I tied them into the main hoop as well as adding a strut tower bar into the frame.





Fabricating the rear X and tower tie in. All the metal is galvanized inside and out so it makes welding very hard.








New Exhaust
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Old 11-29-2008, 02:19 PM   #1029
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Goddamn that's some good-lookin stuff. Bracing is phenominal, and I bet the short exhaust looks bomb. Well done.
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:50 PM   #1030
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Subscribed. Awesome stuff in here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ditch_bound View Post
Here is a couple things Ive done to my s13

~ SNIP ~

Battery box




Do you have any pictures of the finished battery box from inside the engine bay? Love to see some pics with a battery in it if you have them available.
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Old 11-29-2008, 05:51 PM   #1031
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this is some of the stuff i did to my sr when i was building it:

gti-r itb's on a high port fwd sentra head. reason i went this route was because it doesnt have the CAS in the way and all along i knew i was going to run an electromotive standalone.


i made my own block off plate with an AN fitting for the oil inlet. the block also has a fitting for oil temp or pressure.


converted to a reusable system1 oil filter


this is the crank trigger mount i made for the hall-effect crank trigger that comes with the electromotive stanalone.


side view of said bracket


modified greddy oil pan to fit the pick up tubes for the 3 stage dry sump pump.


crappy pic of the pump


overall view of belt system(no PS provisions; was going to run mr2 electric pump)


lightened stock flywheel version1


lightened stock flywheel version 2
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Old 11-29-2008, 08:24 PM   #1032
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Very nice. Im assuming it failed based on what your sig says?
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Old 11-29-2008, 09:57 PM   #1033
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Very nice. Im assuming it failed based on what your sig says?
oh no the motor did not fail. me finishing the car failed. i was going to front half the car and convert it for full time track duty. the car is painted and sitting in a storage unit and the motor is at my house bundled up from any type of elements like there is no tomorrow. im probably going to sell both the shell and the motor. i posted it on some local forums but people either say its bad ass and keep it or they dont have the type of money to buy it.

i have not had a motor fail on me due to mechanical reasons out of all the ones i built. had one fail due to a tune and one blew a head gasket when we tried to run some ELF F1 fuel on the engine dyno. that gas is so highly oxygenated. leaned the fucker out. lol. it was an old school VW Super Vee engine.

one of my current projects is a supercharger on a built motor in a operl gt and an ITB setup for daily driven sc300 that will be getting a 1.5jz in the near future. im also helping my boss with a 68 saab 850 monte carlo for the salt flats.
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Old 11-29-2008, 10:58 PM   #1034
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I found this on club4ag. I think the title of this thread should be "how not to fabricate anything". I figured this would be more appreciated here than in another thread. Look at the steering rack mounts for christ's sake!
Anyways here's the link:

Club4AG Forum Topics: 1JZ corolla coupe with IRS- 56k... heh

I will eventually document something I fabricate or modify soon, I promise. I just picked up an s-14 rear subframe for my s-13 and I plan on seam welding and bracing it before I throw it in, I already did that with my front crossmember. That should be a good start. Oh and Luke, I still plan on doing the ducting. It just got put off due to time and money constraints and I might be getting my hands on a SR too.
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Old 11-29-2008, 11:08 PM   #1035
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man o man..... theres not one thing that i find a good idea in any of those pictures (especially the rear shock mounting). I feel really sorry for that car.
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Old 11-30-2008, 01:27 PM   #1036
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psstt... downpipe.
I'm not familiar with the bearing cartridge then.
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Old 11-30-2008, 01:58 PM   #1037
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man o man..... theres not one thing that i find a good idea in any of those pictures (especially the rear shock mounting). I feel really sorry for that car.
Agreed. I always wondered where the rest of the build was to those shock towers though.... I can't believe he is getting any praise. Looks like a deathtrap on wheels...
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:36 PM   #1038
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this thread was full of win before that. now its full of... god i dont even know someone get me some asprin!
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:24 PM   #1039
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Lets keep win stuff in this thread. Not "hey. Look what some blind, retarded, 3 year olds, building a cororra."
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:49 PM   #1040
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Putting the finishing touches on the 3 speaker boxes for the S14.

Passenger side was first - mounted:


Then dynamat'd behind and fully sealed:


Fitment with door closed - touches passenger seat, and had to cut the dash to clear *ouch*


Driver's side is identical (doesn't touch the seat though) - no pics yet. Door panels will be modded to fit when I'm convinced these boxes are going to stay. Door boxes will be covered in black vynil to match the door panels.

Subwoofer box - snug in the wheel well cutout, comes up to about 1" from the trunk latch. TRU T4.100 amp mounted on the front side of the box (blue lights).


The crossovers live on a little wood shelf I made to also sit inside the wheel well, below the amp. This is the best pic I could get:


Wiring will be cleaned up next week, or when I do sound deadening (Cascade VMAX) to the floorboards/firewall.

Sounds incredible. No sound deadening in the car, and no rattles! Still tuning the tweet location and EQ a tiny bit, but the boxes give the 6.5" mids unbelievable punch, and they play GREAT down to ~100hz, which is what I wanted. There's a tiny dead spot I sometimes hear somewhere around 300-400hz, but with a system this good you can never tell if it's the recording or not. The subwoofer is highly accurate and will still bang 100db, and sound great doing it, but I will be moving on to an AVS SLS300 12" SQ sub soon for this setup.
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:52 PM   #1041
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My friend made a 24 LED dome light. lol I have to mount it back into the roof, I just wanted to test it out.

Also pics of how my rear arms came out. I swapped out the heim joints with QA1. I still need to get them powder coated.






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Old 12-01-2008, 12:13 AM   #1042
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That dome light looks too bright... lol

Arms look sick! Traction arms, or for something custom?
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Old 12-01-2008, 12:20 AM   #1043
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Well my camera is mostly to blame for the brightness in that photo, its not that bright in real life but I set the shutter speed really low.

They're traction arms, I also have RUCA's I just never took a picture of those.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:47 PM   #1044
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Well it isn't much, but at least I am going to finally post something I did! I chopped and welded some front dust shields to clear my r-32 GTR brakes and to FINALLY actually mount my 3" brake ducts to. I actually finished this a week or two ago so I only have pics of the finished product.

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Old 12-04-2008, 11:00 PM   #1045
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Well it isn't much, but at least I am going to finally post something I did! I chopped and welded some front dust shields to clear my r-32 GTR brakes and to FINALLY actually mount my 3" brake ducts to. I actually finished this a week or two ago so I only have pics of the finished product.

Ouuu..
I Like
Might have to do this!!
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:30 PM   #1046
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Looking good. Jeeze alot of good stuff on here.
You guys are amazing..
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:13 AM   #1047
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right now my boss gave me a S14 (e30 2.3l) throttle body plate to redesign so it can be cut out of aluminum on our cnc. should have a rough part/rendering next week sometime.

and i might possibly be working on a tubular manifold for ka-t soon.
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:25 AM   #1048
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Cool brake dust shields racepar! Those should work out very nicely
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Old 12-05-2008, 09:39 AM   #1049
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Yea, Thats why I'm pissed I didn't jump on those brake duct plates that Kognition made for a time.
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Old 12-05-2008, 10:13 AM   #1050
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Originally Posted by boozels View Post
Ouuu..
I Like
Might have to do this!!
x2...so easy a caveman can do it...

Amazing work...so cool..
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