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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 05-03-2012, 11:40 AM   #4801
tapdeznutz
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do these welders just use 120vac or do they have to have 210vac+ ?
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Old 05-03-2012, 03:29 PM   #4802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bb4_96 View Post
^you're going to chase rust until there is no stock metal left imo.
That's better than another sacrifice to the gods of drifting and salted roads innthe junk yard.

Shielding wire is hollow with some flux in the middle to replace shielding gas. Works fine, especially if you can grind the fugliness down latter like did. Good work.
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:18 PM   #4803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tapdeznutz View Post
do these welders just use 120vac or do they have to have 210vac+ ?
What welders? My welder will work on 110v all the way up to 460v three phase, but I paid a bit for that portability.
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:40 PM   #4804
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I started thinking that too but I striped the whole car down as much as I could to find all the rust and what I've posted in the pictures is really all the rust there was. Besides the typical floor pan rot its almost done and coated with POR15
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:13 AM   #4805
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Finished my catch can finally!! Got some video of me making some of the caps and inserts. Everything was made either by hand or on my lathe, no CNC or brake presses, which would have been nice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn4pcWxlZdI



































































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Old 05-05-2012, 01:58 AM   #4806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dolph_KYAS13 View Post
I was so sick of my turbo timer falling off the underside of my dash and jangling around that...


I quickly mocked up the timer and enclosure in Solidworks....
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and then hit print.


The Machine Takes 7 Hours to Print.


Is this Cheating??


finished result (before sanding and finishing) waiting on a new trim piece to modify so it can get mounted in the car.

Up next is a column mount gauge pod
your post has inspired me! ... is it your printer or school's/work's?
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:49 AM   #4807
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my custom made catch can



also finally got around to making a bracket for my haltech dash

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Old 05-06-2012, 03:23 AM   #4808
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Always lurk this thread but never post my own stuff. Im really critical of my own work. never happy with it until its perfect but oh well.

My most recent project was a 2jzgte aristo swap into an SC300 my buddy did. Customer wanted a new exhaust. My welder took a shit on my 3rd weld so I had to mark this stuff. Take it to another shop to weld it and then bring it back. It was a nightmare.






Hate the price of stainless collectors so i made one. This one had expanded outlets which was crucial for clearence of the differential. wish i had picture of what i am talking about but i do not..



Vibrant 350hp core. I made the end tanks. Tapered them to the size of the inlet/outlet of the throttle and turbo. No more bigger than it needs to be. I welded this thing up at 430am the night before an event. it was sadly rushed..



heres how it turned out..



Thats about all I really have pictures for right now. I have a few more projects coming up and some new tools to play with. So I will continue to post.
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:46 AM   #4809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotboiblaze View Post
your post has inspired me! ... is it your printer or school's/work's?

Work Just got the machine in a few weeks ago. we normally use it to prototype our designs and such. the machines have to print every 48 hours or the material will clog up the print head. So when we have nothing to prototype i can run simple little parts
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:15 AM   #4810
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this is really not car related but ill share my little project anyway....
I needed a larger BBQ smoker so i built my own and only spent about $100
mock up
legs and door attached

bottom rack in
top rack in
ready for paint

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Old 05-07-2012, 12:42 PM   #4811
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my rb25 exhuast manifold just tacked together...




custom intake and exhuast manifold on...
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:09 PM   #4812
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never did an exhaust manifold because I was always unsure of the order in which you weld everything up because you obviously cant tack it all together and then weld the whole thing. there just not enough room to get a torch in there.. any insight to this? think i asked luke this question like a year ago but didnt get back to me.. Looks great btw!
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:33 PM   #4813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ch1873857 View Post
never did an exhaust manifold because I was always unsure of the order in which you weld everything up because you obviously cant tack it all together and then weld the whole thing. there just not enough room to get a torch in there.. any insight to this? think i asked luke this question like a year ago but didnt get back to me.. Looks great btw!
It's case by case. remove and full weld one runner at a time after tacked. You'll see which ones overlap. Inside to outside.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:16 PM   #4814
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makes sense. thats how i saw it in my head anyway. maybe ill suck it up one day and do it.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:52 AM   #4815
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after every weld i stop and think about all the remaining ones. Otherwise I'll weld something in and have to cut.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:14 PM   #4816
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nice manifold bb4_96 I am about to start making a manifold for my rb25 as soon as I get the engine mounts and trans mounts made, did it take you a long while to get the collector pieces fitting right?
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:52 PM   #4817
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Making a T3 divided into a T4 divided:









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Old 05-13-2012, 07:33 AM   #4818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stayclassy View Post
I started thinking that too but I striped the whole car down as much as I could to find all the rust and what I've posted in the pictures is really all the rust there was. Besides the typical floor pan rot its almost done and coated with POR15
You should've went with Solid Wire + Gas like 85/15.

Flux core gets way too hot, way too fast. It's great if you're doing it on something thick like 3/8ths+. But I wouldn't use it on something thin like Chassis sheet metal.

Solid Wire + Gas = Stays cooler longer = Longer consistent beads, without having to worry too much about heat distortion.

Also, it looks like you went downhill on your verts?
What were your settings? Technique? It doesn't look like it got hot enough for proper penetration.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:58 AM   #4819
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Here is a bumper i did on a 1999 tacoma a couple days ago





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Old 05-13-2012, 01:05 PM   #4820
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^^looks good, as does the t4 flange. here's an exhaust i've been working on for a 2j s14 that i got finished up last night. downpipe is 4" with a 3" reducer at the end, i also fabricated the crossover pipe to work with an hks cat back exhaust.








and the hks exhaust is mild steel
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:36 PM   #4821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpuGen View Post
You should've went with Solid Wire + Gas like 85/15.

Flux core gets way too hot, way too fast. It's great if you're doing it on something thick like 3/8ths+. But I wouldn't use it on something thin like Chassis sheet metal.

Solid Wire + Gas = Stays cooler longer = Longer consistent beads, without having to worry too much about heat distortion.

Also, it looks like you went downhill on your verts?
What were your settings? Technique? It doesn't look like it got hot enough for proper penetration.
Voltage was all the way down wire speed at 4 maybe 5. I'm honestly not really sure it was my first time welding. I have noticed it does burn through very easily so it was making it hard to get a consistent bead. Also I did do downhill vertices because I was getting a more consistent bead that way compared to uphill. Thanks for the info though. I do appreciate it.
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Old 05-13-2012, 11:03 PM   #4822
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did an intake elbow today. 4.5" for a 9 second lsx camaro.




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Old 05-14-2012, 12:07 AM   #4823
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buentellomma you should make those and sell me to friends/dam or at flea markets/swap meets
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:14 PM   #4824
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buentellomma you should make those and sell me to friends/dam or at flea markets/swap meets
I would if I had some interest here locally. Tested it out this weekend and it was amazing..... Best smoker I have used yet! It probably could hold 60+lbs of meat
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:54 PM   #4825
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Hey guys.

We got some new Miller welders at the shop and made a quick video to show everyone their features!

Check it.

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Old 05-18-2012, 02:05 PM   #4826
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What wire do you pros reccommend?

Mig with c25 gas. For general welding to my oe Nissan steel. Tubs, filling holes, blockin heater core holes and others in firewall.

Thanks for input!
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:19 PM   #4827
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cool video luke. i like that autoset...
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:23 PM   #4828
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VH45 Swap Y-pipe

Alll bought locally. I had about 2-3 ft of straight left and 1 complete 45. And here's what she looks like tonight. Tomorrow I will be sanding the whole thing down and painting both the inside and outside with eastwood header paint. I gaslessed migged this setup and I gotta tell you I enjoyed gasless better then gas. SOOOOO MUCH EASIER for this....Miller/Hobart Auto Arc 130 mig.






This y pipe will meet up to an Apexi GT spec 1 piece that starts at 3" and ends at almost 4" with a built in resonator.
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:50 PM   #4829
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really?! you like flux core better?? i refuse to use them..
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:59 PM   #4830
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@blu808--You make me miss the 200dx at my old work! I loved that thing


Took my new personal welder to work today to check function and what not.



I'm mildly impressed with Everlast, the arc is definitely more stable than the 180sd it is sitting on.
I just need to get a pedal and a smaller torch--lol

First bead, 304-16g-3in tube, 35 amps, no penetration, #6 cup no lens

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