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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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05-24-2014, 09:26 AM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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S14 KA24DE no crank no start, help please
Hey zilvia
Ill give you a bit of short history to give you a better idea what could be the issue. I replaced a leaking high pressure powersteering line with the line ISIS makes (leaving the stock pressure switch unplugged) After I installed the line, I took it for a test drive; the car was overheating sporadically. I figured I needed to bleed the cooling system. Bled the cooling system by jacking the front as high as possible; then opening the bleeder and rad cap. Adding coolant through the rad cap until bubbles and coolant stopped coming out of the bleeder. After I finished that I went for another drive, this time temps where right in the middle. Suddenly the engine RPMS drop to 0 and I pull over to the side of the road. I take the key out, put it back in. Nothing. No lights on the dash, nothing. The only things that I can see working are: horn, headlights, taillights, 4 ways, interior dome light. Car will not crank or start. Any ideas? I really appreciate any help, Thanks |
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05-24-2014, 09:56 AM | #2 |
Post Whore!
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start by checking all your fuses and re-connecting the battery terminals.
if headlights work, the battery is probably fine. But there are fuses and other connections between the battery and the dash lights. Probably a fuse. But make sure those 2 wires that connect to the positive side of the battery terminal are in place, both at the battery, AND at the fuse box itself. |
05-24-2014, 02:47 PM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
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So I checked all the fuses and they were all good. At least the fuses in the engine bay and foot well are all good. I checked all except the FL100A fuse under the hood. Couldn't get that out, but visually it looks good.
I checked the battery voltage with the car off (obviously), and it was only 11.77v...pretty low. I tried charging it with an external charger but it won't get above 12.14v... Still pretty low. Starting to run out of ideas, anyone? |
05-24-2014, 04:25 PM | #4 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Check your grounds and make sure they are well grounded as well as the engines ground.
Something may have gotten pinched or ripped that is causing the electrical issue. Make sure no wires are merged together either that may have melted and tied into another wire.
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S14 KA NA two cylinders, 75whp limper |
05-24-2014, 07:10 PM | #5 | |
GM2 (SW/AW)
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That's indicative of the main fuse blowing. it's a 75A and it's in the box on the front right of the car.
Otherwise the issue is most definitely electrical, cabling if it's not a fuse
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05-24-2014, 07:19 PM | #6 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
Also just put in a known good battery with full 12.54v, no change Any other ideas of things to look at? |
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05-24-2014, 08:25 PM | #7 |
Leaky Injector
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It seems like everything works in the car that gets constant power, ie headlights, dome lights, horn. Nothing that needs an ignition source works,ie everything else lol
Ignition fuse seems to be well (tested for continuity) Could it possibly be a bad ignition switch? |
05-24-2014, 09:52 PM | #8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Is it a 5 speed conversion?
If so check the plug tht needs splicing for the starter signal? Mayb it came un done? It happened to me -.- the smallest things create the biggest pain in the ass!! |
05-24-2014, 10:30 PM | #9 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
I also checked all the relays in the footwell and engine fuse boxes; all are good. Ugh things like this make me want to pull my hair out lol Any one else have any ideas? |
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05-26-2014, 07:04 AM | #10 |
Leaky Injector
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So after some more screwing around I think ive narrowed in on the issue.
Ignition switch I took the ignition switch out from under the steering wheel and applied 12v to the black wire with a white strip (bypassing the switch itself). Everything came to life (fuel pump, dash lights, etc) Looks like this switch somehow went bad. Ill head to the dealer to get a replacement and check back in with my results. |
05-30-2014, 06:52 AM | #12 |
Leaky Injector
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So a little update.
Still have not fixed the problem. Checked all the engine, battery, and body grounds; all are good. While I was poking around under the hood. I noticed the one of the wires coming from the IATS (intake air temp sensor) had broken off the sensor. From what Ive been reading, this shouldnt really effect the car at all. Or would it? |
05-30-2014, 07:41 AM | #14 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
Im getting power to all the fuses that receive constant power as well as constant power to pin 1 on the ignition switch. Things like this make me want to go insane...hate electrical. Any insight what could cause it to randomly turn off while driving? |
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05-31-2014, 10:34 AM | #15 |
Leaky Injector
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Yesterday I inspected the driver fender harness, it looked fine but I know the previous owner tucked it because the car used to be very low before.
I unwrapped the harness and there were 4 wires that had some insulation rubbed off or were barely connected. Going to splice in new wiring and Ill report back. |
05-31-2014, 07:59 PM | #16 |
Leaky Injector
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So after a lot of fiddling around with the driver side fender harness.
The previous owner had the car really low so he tucked the harness. Let just say his soldering skills suck. Half the wires didnt even have heat shrink on them Rewired it all and now the cars running! sweet. Kinda weird now, the passenger window motor and interior blower fan dont work. Im thinking it might be a fuse. Any ideas? |
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