codyace

hehe I was thinking that, but also could abeen S4's on my mind hehe.

I think they're secretly telling to put an LSx in

To an extent, but you can typically derive a 'round a bout' whp figure from weight and traps. Not exact, but if someone claims 400 whp in a s13, and traps 114...then you know it's only a 350ish car.

Yes. JWT S series cams are designed, cam dynoed, and designed specifically around the stock valvetrain. Their C series cams however are designed with more lift and ramp up, thus requiring the use of aftermarket springs.

I know of 5+ personal SR20 friends, with over 20,000 miles, all running S3 cams with JWT Ecus and the 7850 rev limit, all making above 330 whp, all of which get abused on HPDE days, that have had no issues.

In fact, i don't know anyone with JWT cams that have had valve spring issues, or even cam issues. I know of people snapping cams due to improper install/dissaembly, but nothign from operation.

I'll never disagree with safety issues, but in my personal experience, most OEM springs are better than some of the lesser priced aftermarket stuff. I like Supertech stuff, and JWT stuff as far as valvetrain is concerned. Some of the seat pressure stuff upon testing other companies (like BC) has totally pushed me away from them.

With that said, I would never EVER tell anyone with JWT S series cams to get springs, unless they are debating revving above the JWT imposed 7850 rev limit.

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idahotuner

i have reved mine to the 8000 mark on several occasions not on purpose though. my power peaks at 6900. but its nice to know my head can handle it. with my new springs and cams. i am gettigna bee r rev limitor so i can adjust my rev limitors in 2 stages to my satisfaction

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usdm180sx

Screw dyno time? codyace all I can say is that u got really lucky with your setup. I'm sure the extrude honed turbo housing and exhaust manifold helped, but mail order rom tunes will never out do real time dyno tuning. If you have a reflash done real time on the dyno your car would run even better but since you already shelled out the cash for your mail order rom tune it wouldn't make sense.

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-Norm!

codyace

Certainly good to have it built, but once you get above the 8k plateau, you're next week link are the HLA's....have you ever considered going solid and revving yours out? That's about the last thing I may do to mine...but we'll see. I just don't think I want to deal with the Solid HLA's and the constant shimming and shat. My car is a street car, so I like to keep it street able.

Lucky? Who are you to say? Why not just give credit where it's due, and realize I spent some good time, and have the experience with these things to create a pretty easy hot rod build. I'm not saying I'm an SR master build like we have on this forum, but when it comes to bolt on stuff and throwing together a street derived bottom end, I've got a grasp on stuff.

Don't take things literally when I say 'screw dyno time'. That was in regard to the JANK BC cams and the time required with gears to run them. Have you ever had an SR on a dyno, trying to set in cams? I have, it sucks, that fugger gets hot as heck, you're dicking around with the stupid valve cover, dropping the stupid rubber washers/nuts (I usually just put 4 in when doing this), worrying about the VC gasket.....and branding your arms with 'koyo' gets old. I'd rather get the right cam, plop it in, and be done, no degreeing needed. If you have done this, awesome, and my fault for assuming.

Mail Order tunes are just that: Mail order. They are made to work everytime, and act as stock as possible. Now there are certainly compentent tuners everywhere that can make a car work like stock, but why bother with some wacky standalone for a 300-400 hp car? To me that's overkill for 97% of the cars on here. I don't need to highest hp, the most timing jammed in, or all of the extra dial a boom capability at all. I like going 'Hey Clark, here are my mods, send me a chip'. Done. First time out of the box, it works great.

PS: For just a 'crappy mail order' I also have Launch Control, and Water Injection (which I have yet to wire up). Not to bad for some generic over the phone stuff huh?

And I'm certain the car would work marginally better, but the car makes over 400 whp, gets 30 mpg cruising, starts and drives like OEM....heck my mom has driven my car with no issues....I think that's a testament to a solid, thought out build...heck speaking of economy, I got 18 MPG during an entire track day monday....I know some people that would love to have that for normal city driving....

I need no lesson in how to build 300-400 whp SR's...and I have no urge for any more.

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OBEEWON

Lol take it easy Ace, he wasn't bashing you. But live ROM tuning is better than mail order. You did your research and you know you get props for your results.

But every car is slightly different ESPECIALLY turbo cars. So if you can get a ROM for your car it is ideal. I personally like ROM over standalone for reasons you mentioned above.

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OBEEWON

BTW my car is for sale guys best offer accepted. Dont have time for it anymore.

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usdm180sx

Relax codyace. I'm not trying to school anyone here, just trying to enlighten people here about their alternatives. All I'm saying is that mail order rom tunes are not a one size fits all solution. Choose a good tuner that is accessible and has good customer service. Then chose an ems that your chosen tuner can tune really well with real time dyno tuning.

Don't use an safc to spot tune a rom tune that should be spot on in the first place. Go somewhere where you can have a rom tune real time dyno tuned.

I tried the Enthalpy route and got the LAST thing I wanted: SHITTY customer service because at the time Scott got a new job so it couldn't be helped. (No offense to Scott, he is an AWESOME tuner but he's in FL and I am in CA but with all the money I spent on my motor that wasn't acceptable for me)

Since I got an hks fcon vpro for REALLY cheap and since I personally know the tuner at hks usa and we're both in so cal I chose the hks fcon vpro.

My next choice would have been technosquare in torrance for a real time dyno rom tune.

Anyway, that's my advice from personal experience.

Finally, I would def upgrade valve springs and retainers but that's just my preference considering the motor will be making a lot more power than stock. It's all about peace of mind.

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codyace

I can see how the post came off as confrontational, but your response seemed like the typical 'Rom tunes suck' bantar that, IMO, is quite old on this forum

Finding a good tuner isn't exactly 'easy' for everyone in this country. Call me crazy, but Jim Wolf Tech is one of the premier Nissan tuners in the World...why wouldn't you trust their rom tunes?

Now, I understand that each car is a little different, and certain things change, but in the grand schme of things, if you've got the same mods installed correctly (emphasis on correctly), and the motor isn't tired, than 9/10 engines will be within the same 10 whp on a dyno with the same rom tune.

Another wonder/beauty of the ROM tune (as you've said) is the upgradability. All you need to do is datalog your car on a dyno (or on the street), send the log files to JWT, or Enthalpy, and then have them burn you a one off chip. To me, this option works out great for those in remote areas, or in areas without Nissan tuners, as a simple email to them results in them shipping you a chip.

Was anything wrong with the ECU?

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s15specR

Well I need some help....I'm running a 2871, just finsh the engine build last friday, ran the car a few times well, checking everything etc. However for some reason I can't boost past 15psi.

S15 SR20DET
GT2871R
Blitz IDC Spec-R
Tomei MAP Sensor ECU
Tomei 260 Cams
740CC Inj
Fuel reg and all the other supporting mods.


Any thoughts/input ?

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OBEEWON

What wastegate are you using? Did you clock the turbo at all? If you did sometimes folks get the actuator stretched. I dont have expirience with the Blitz IDC but if its anything like the Profec and the like maybe you need to fine tune the settings. Had a similar issue with my boost and I just wasnt setting gain, and boost limit right.

Try throwing a manual boost controller on it and see if you can get over 15, and make sure your wastegate isnt stressed.

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codyace

Tomei Map sensor ECU?

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s15specR

It's the Tomei Reytec Standalone, car runs smooth starts easy everything like stock but wont boost past 15psi

TOMEI WEB ƒJƒ^ƒƒO

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s15specR

I'll try the MBC and the gain is set real low (15 I think) with the boost at 20psi, but there's an auto and a manual on the controller, I thought the gain is only applicable if it's on auto ?

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OBEEWON

From what Ive expirienced you can pretty much toss the manuals out on EBC's. The translations are lacking. EVERYTHING has to be set properly or it wont work correctly. Gain should apply regardless of mode. Again I've never used your specific model but they all share similarities.

Come to think of it that was the problem on my Profec. If you increase Gain on the SpecII's you also increase boost. It's probably the same for the Blitz.

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s15specR

I'll try that, maybe set the gain to 100 and leave it...lol

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GabeS14

then wont you be hitting full boost too early?
thats how it works on my greddy boost ctlr
I have gain and set gain, one is for boost(psi) and the other is for how soon I want the turbo to hit full boost If I want it gradual or if i want isntant..
and then you can select at what capacity you want the turbo to run up to 100%
at least thats what i understood from the manual and thats how the last tuner confirmed.

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codyace

Greddy Profec B Spec II's are the devil to setup using the enclosed directions. There is a fantastic guide on the Evo forums evolutionm.com on how to dial them in. I've used the guide with sucess, and now no longer hate that EBC haha.

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s15specR

^ the blitz I have got a desired boost level then gain 0-100.

I set boost on 18 and gain on 20, it boosts to 15psi, and stays no peaking or dropping off, just frozen.

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codyace

Set the boost higher and see what it does? Maybe it's an issue of guage location versus Blitz brain location?

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idahotuner

my avc-r tok about 40 mins to set up. it holds boost and hits boost smoothly

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codyace

AVC-R is straight up good stuff. I've got some honda friends with them, and they are incredible.

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idahotuner

that is what i read. only reason i went with it. only read good things

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s15specR

I kinda thought that, I have a vacuum dist. block feeding everything, MAP, FPR, Boost Guage and Blitz Brain etc, but the IN line on the EBC solenoid is connected to the compressor housing and the OUT goes to the WG actuator. But I'll try a few things and get back on here with the results.

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FusionR240sx

where did you guys mount the wastegate vac line too?
the TB or the coldpipe on the IC?

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WUT?

GabeS14

mines on the hot pipe

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idahotuner

i installed a nipple on my hot pipe as well

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usdm180sx

The shorter the distance the better. Mine's on the hotpipe as well.

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-Norm!

codyace

It could just be an issue of references before and after the intercooler.

Or just crank it and see if it worksthat way. If it does, don't be so concerend with having hte right setting on your ECU versus the gauge...as long as the gauge is right.

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s13envy

off topic, but hey codyace, i tried sending you an email on here about your ROM tune. let me know if you got it or not

s15specR

Gain didn't help, I'll look into the ECU MAP setting and see whats up.

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